Droop screws & setting in relation to setting preload

[kratonwatch]

Hi everyone, I'm finally getting around to upgrading my K8S and in order to fit some M2C parts I need to set up the droop. That said, the first thing I did when I got the truck was set the preload in the front and rear. It sits a bit ass high, which is how I like it and think it should be setup this way for this type of vehicle, but now I'm wondering how the droop screws will impact the preload and/or suspension in general.

Should I retest and then re-set my preload after fitting droop screws to the rig? Should I adjust suspension to maximize setting droop?

Thanks in advance and sorry if this has been answered. I did a ton of reading and couldn't find an answer.

 

[djrahbee]

I've yet to find anyone running droop screws on 8s rigs and I have 2. The only time I have even heard them mentioned was in m2c suggestions for their beefy cvd's which I've been having issues with the pins breaking. I can share the thread link if you're interested.

 

[kratonwatch]

I've yet to find anyone running droop screws on 8s rigs and I have 2. The only time I have even heard them mentioned was in m2c suggestions for their beefy cvd's which I've been having issues with the pins breaking. I can share the thread link if you're interested.


Yes please share. I’m interested in beefing up the entire drive line, but have never set droop [screws] on my vehicles no matter the size

If it’s not necessary or worth it I’ll just click the order button on these parts and install asap without fiddling with droop.

 

[djrahbee]

Just to be clear I was speaking on 8s. All my 6s rigs have droop screws and I adjust accordingly.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/breaking-m2c-cvd-pins.63115/

 

[Hammer Down]

I used to run droop screws on the stock arms of my K8S v1. But I changed them to rpm and those don’t allow for them..

To set them I would remove all preload and take the top screw out of the shock and adjust the droop screw until I had to slightly compress the shock in order to fit it back in the shock tower.
Hopefully that makes sense…

Here’s a few pics of the old arms with screws. Sorry can’t recall the screw size.

 

[HKR_Norway]

heavy rc, recommend spacer/washer..

 

[SrC]

I've yet to find anyone running droop screws on 8s rigs and I have 2. The only time I have even heard them mentioned was in m2c suggestions for their beefy cvd's which I've been having issues with the pins breaking. I can share the thread link if you're interested.

Setting droop is the first adjustment, then preload and the rest of the wheel alignment follows. Droop limits Arm/ Shock extension. And since there is NO droop screws out the box as Arrma never included them even though the Arms and Chassis can have them, it was an oversight maybe on Arrmas part IMHO. Not being any in the first place is why many never use them. Out of site out, of mind or questioning the need for them?
If you limit arm/shock droop, lowering the rig, it is best. IMHO. Slammed lower is better. Chassis slap is normal, if that is what you are more concerned with. And Limiting droop will spare your Shock shafts from bending and breaking the lower shock Ends. How it is done for all the 6s Arrma's which all come with Droop screws.
The K8s requires 2 Droop screws for each Stock plastic arm. Which is kind of odd. And Odd why Arrma at the last minte decided to not include them preinstalled. Sway bars the same. HH cheaped out at the last minute on this expensive Expert Level rig. Leaving these inexpensive basic parts out. Unlike the 6s line which always come stock with Droop screws and Fr and Rr sway bars.
I feel sway bars are also something to consider. They can only help, like the droop screws, and not hurt you.

 

[kratonwatch]

I appreciate all the responses on something I clearly overthought. It was pretty simple to install droop screws with all the advice on this thread, so thanks again