For you RTR bolt on bashers..

[gotnitro]

I didn't create this thread to argue with any of you. I was a basher at first but my heart will always be a racer.

Take a race vehicle like 1/8th buggy/truggy for instance.. Why am I asking this, because lots of vehicles that get thrashed in here look like buggy's and truggy's.

I saw guys (noobs) beating the ever-loving out of their race buggies/truggy's on many different tracks on many different weekends. They would hit rebar holding the track tubes, lawn dart every jump, run off the tracks into dirt piles, jump, flip and land lid down, break head fins off their mills, jump into another lane in the wrong direction and head on someone, guess what? They broke nothing on the roller part of the truggy/buggy... They were back on the track the very next heat.

I've always said that the best basher is a race vehicle. Bashers think they beat their RC's harder than racers do, not the case. If you are a noob on a race track and lasted the heat, you just beat your vehicle harder than you could bash it! Racing is just controlled beatings. Race kits plus everything you need would be in the 1k to $1500 range. When you buy a RTR, you're never only into it for the original price, you always need parts and have to upgrade. I'm not saying you'd never break a race buggy/truggy BUT, they sure can take more of a beating than any RTR.

SO, why wouldn't you just buy a race kit and bash it? Is it the up front money you need to get it going? Do you think it cant handle what you want it to do? What is it?

I'm not looking for the 1 off guy that says he beats his RTR trucks hard and nothing breaks, BS..

 

[0verkill]

People like a low price entry point, but they end up spending $1,000 on upgrades/improvements, and then say that race kits are too expensive. I really don't like trucks that need almost every single part replaced in order to be stronger, which is one reason why I don't choose RTR trucks. Race kits need upgrades for hard bashing too, just not nearly as many.

 

[Branson_Basher]

The only real advantage to rtr vs race kit is that you can buy in at a lower price and have fun right away.

I feel that even after all the upgrades a rtr will never have the tunability of a race kit so it's not as good. For the basher that does not value the race level of tunability it's just as good.

 

[jondilly1974]

I think there is a market for high end “bashers”, but it would take name recognition to sell. I always said Rich or Eric (or Thomas P before them) could do a spec vehicle that they autograph and sell at a premium. They could beefcake it to their likings and do stuff like take photos or videos with the unit you buy. I’m sure it’s not worth their time to do it full time, but they could easily do 5-10 builds a month. They have connections with all of the suppliers. I could see a $200 premium on a beefcake version if it had value added by being hand signed by a legend. Use build numbers and keep the supply low. Have build sheets for each unit. And of course open a chop shop to sell off the extra parts from the upgrades ??

 

[Jerry-rigged]

I raced back in the 26t "stock" days, and broke lots of parts at the ~17-20mph top speed of those cars... .

But yeah, modern 1/8 race cars are tough. Really Tough. The 1/10 cars, maybe not as much (especially the 2wd buggies, but who bashes those? )

Tekno sees the market, I think. They have the MT410. Same parts as their race cars, and it is about the toughest basher you can get. But it still needs upgrades to jump like ThomasP or Duperbash.

 

[Branson_Basher]

I think there is a market for high end “bashers”, but it would take name recognition to sell. I always said Rich or Eric (or Thomas P before them) could do a spec vehicle that they autograph and sell at a premium. They could beefcake it to their likings and do stuff like take photos or videos with the unit you buy. I’m sure it’s not worth their time to do it full time, but they could easily do 5-10 builds a month. They have connections with all of the suppliers. I could see a $200 premium on a beefcake version if it had value added by being hand signed by a legend. Use build numbers and keep the supply low. Have build sheets for each unit. And of course open a chop shop to sell off the extra parts from the upgrades ??

That would make the customer spend all the money at once, plus the money the builder would take and bring the total price above what a race kit costs.

 

[jondilly1974]

That would make the customer spend all the money at once, plus the money the builder would take and bring the total price above what a race kit costs.

Yep and people will buy them. Trust me. It will be a status symbol. Tons of disposable funds types out here.

 

[olds97_lss]

RTR's are enough for many, but as you have pointed out, they aren't enough for those of us that want to push the limits every time we take them out.

Bashing or racing is irrelevant really. It's highly unlikely a jump at a track for racing is intended to shoot a truck 20+ feet off the ground for 50+ feet of distance. From the racing videos I've watched, tires on the ground win the race, so the less your in the air, the faster you are. Sure, they jump, but they don't @Rich Duperbash jump like we do at bmx tracks with these things. Landing wrong at 50mph from 20 feet up... it doesn't matter what it's made out of or how high the price tag is, something is likely to bend or break.

That said, if I had known better at the onset when I got my outcast 6s, I would have gone with a tekno kit with better diffs and 7075 chassis/towers out of the box, then added the motor/esc/servo I wanted to it. But, at the time, I wasn't aware of how far I could push an RTR and really, short of a stupid landing, it held up really well with only a few upgrades while on 4S. It wasn't until I really started launching it on 6S every single time I bashed that I ran into constant issues with chassis/towers bending on me.

Coming from nitro, most of my trucks topped out at most, 40mph, and that was on concrete. In grass, it was less. I never fathomed the kind of air you could get with an RC until I started running my outcast. Now I treat everything the same and run them as hard as I can. Most days, I come home with trucks that still work. Well, usually at least one that still works... lol!

 

[Branson_Basher]

Yep and people will buy them. Trust me. It will be a status symbol. Tons of disposable funds types out here.

For the guys that want richduperbash to put his nuts on their chin?

 

[3x9rtse]

Some very good points here . I'm a racer to , will say more racer than basher . Both my daughter and myself race indoor off road carpet , 2wd SC and 4wd SC and 2wd buggy . gotnitro , when you say the 1/8 buggies/truggies I'd have to agree with you , although I don't own one , I see them at my local track where I race and they do look stout !!! However , the 1/10 2wd and 4wd buggies are def delicate ( I see them break often with the wrong touch or hit ) . Our Team Associated SC6.1's we race will mostly break the arms if hit the wrong way . Our TLR SCTE 3.0 however I consider very strong , and only have broken 1 arm ever on it , the drive train has been flawless ( other than wearing out the outdrives) . Never on any of these race rigs have we EVER bent a chassis , although we never "sent" our SCTE big like a Typhon or Senton 6s . But the difference is we are TRYING to land on the down side of the landing jump/double or triple , not pancake it on flat ground like bashing .
With that said , I could see what you are saying , we could easily turn our SCTE into a basher , which when I say it would get ''beat" , I mean the bottom of the chassis would get destroyed/dirty . With that said , the Losi Tenacity DB Pro is a very good choice , tons of adjustments just like on the race kits and price .
If I had a complaint about Arrma , it would be change the material of the chassis , and have the chassis braces be aluminum right from the start .

 

[gotnitro]

Bashing or racing is irrelevant really. It's highly unlikely a jump at a track for racing is intended to shoot a truck 20+ feet off the ground for 50+ feet of distance. From the racing videos I've watched, tires on the ground win the race, so the less your in the air, the faster you are. Sure, they jump, but they don't @Rich Duperbash jump like we do at bmx tracks with these things. Landing wrong at 50mph from 20 feet up... it doesn't matter what it's made out of or how high the price tag is, something is likely to bend or break.

I totally get it!

Let's take the guys that get 100ft jumps on video and do it for the likes on TUBE out of the equation. Lets take the average MO like myself that doesn't see those types of GIANT jumps everyday like most people don't, right? I'm talking about the average basher that does a OOPS into a curb or lands on one wheel backwards and now needs an A-arm and a turnbuckle.. The 1/8th race vehicle would probably have taken that hit.

I guess my whole point is most of these RTR bashers have no idea how durable a race kit really is AND they will most likely never know as the up front cost is not wallet friendly.

 

[Branson_Basher]

The single best piece of advice ever given to noobs "Pick up a used race truggy from online, or the local track."

 

[Kingleo619]

No matter if we racers, bashers whatever lane we in all this poop is expensive, I’m not complaining about prices at all I knew what I signed up for and I’m good with spending money for my rc habit. Bash on mf
Speed the fk out
Race on mf ? to all

 

[crimsonfancy]

A lot of the cost of the kits is in designing them to be put together perfectly. Last live stream YT video that Jason Deaden did he mentioned this and he mentioned why Arrma wouldn't be designing kits.

 

[Kylerc]

I don’t like how the racer rcs seem to go obsolete quicker than Bashers I couldn’t find parts for my b6d and my b4.2 to save a life. Tim will tell about the arrma 3s and 4s line.

 

[Mr7wun8]

Price point and the fact that at that price point I wouldn't feel comfortable "bashing" it. It cost me as much as a 1/5 scale you say? I'd treat it like the daughter I don't even have yet. You hurt I hurt you...

 

[Mongoose]

The closest I can compare a racer to a RTR would be my Tekno ET48.3 vs Kraton 6S. Not only is the Tekno built better but it also just handles better, glides better and is way lighter.

I think the main reasons people go for the RTR is due to price and intimidation of the build. Plus, I doubt the average Joe actually researches before buying anything to know what upgrades are needed. Honestly though, if people don’t plan to send them through the air like an airplane then the list of upgrades for an Arrma are limited.

 

[3x9rtse]

The closest I can compare a racer to a RTR would be my Tekno ET48.3 vs Kraton 6S. Not only is the Tekno built better but it also just handles better, glides better and is way lighter.

I think the main reasons people go for the RTR is due to price and intimidation of the build. Plus, I doubt the average Joe actually researches before buying anything to know what upgrades are needed. Honestly though, if people don’t plan to send them through the air like an airplane then the list of upgrades for an Arrma are limited.

Does it have the ground clearance like the Kraton ?

 

[Jerry-rigged]

I totally get it!

Let's take the guys that get 100ft jumps on video and do it for the likes on TUBE out of the equation. Lets take the average MO like myself that doesn't see those types of GIANT jumps everyday like most people don't, right? I'm talking about the average basher that does a OOPS into a curb or lands on one wheel backwards and now needs an A-arm and a turnbuckle.. The 1/8th race vehicle would probably have taken that hit.

I guess my whole point is most of these RTR bashers have no idea how durable a race kit really is AND they will most likely never know as the up front cost is not wallet friendly.

This is why, in about 4 years of owning Arrma 1/8 rigs (Talion, Kraton, Typhon, Outcast), I have broke only about half a dozen plastic parts... I have only bent a few shock towers and chassis, and I hammer them flat and keep running, no need to replace them. I have WORN OUT plastic parts, and diffs, and drive cups, but that is not uncommon among racers either. No need for racing chassis for the way I run them, and no real need for many upgrades. My Kraton has alloy braces, and my Typhon has TBR bumpers, that is the sum total of my upgrades... Drive your Arrma 1/8 rig sane, do your PM and cleaning, and it will last a long, LONG time. Drive it WOT into a pole, or other hard immobile object, and it will break. But so will a race rig.

The closest I can compare a racer to a RTR would be my Tekno ET48.3 vs Kraton 6S. Not only is the Tekno built better but it also just handles better, glides better and is way lighter.

I think the main reasons people go for the RTR is due to price and intimidation of the build. Plus, I doubt the average Joe actually researches before buying anything to know what upgrades are needed. Honestly though, if people don’t plan to send them through the air like an airplane then the list of upgrades for an Arrma are limited.

I agree that my Tekno SCT410 handles better than my Arrmas. Lighter, smoother, and the shocks are just sweet. But, they should be better, considering the price tag. For most bashers, as I see it, what is important is "Good Enough". For those that don't have a budget, sure, spend the extra $$, no question you will get a better rig.

Does it have the ground clearance like the Kraton ?

One of the beauties of a racing rig, you can set it up almost any way you want. Want ground clearance? Tweak it, and done. Want low profile speed? Tweek, and done.

 

[fpvmiller]

RTR is entry into the hobby. After that it is up to the consumer. I disliked the price of replacement parts for my race rigs than my bashers. I owned a losi 5ive-t race only rig and even that had its fair share of damage from racing.

For some reason racing and parts are at a higher premium than bashing and parts.

Again, I have been on all sides. Bashing just hurts less on the wallet with a "basher" than a race rig because basher/rtr parts really are cheaper. Aftermarket parts not considered.