Haastnooit's FMS FCX24 Power Wagon

[Haastnooit]

Well I jumped on the bandwagon and got myself a 1/24 scale micro crawler.

My first serious involvement with RC is with crawlers. After I got my first RC (Tamiya M03 Suzuki Swift) and second (HPI Firestorm flux) I bought the AX10 Scorpion kit with the Betty body. The look of the crawlers really enticed me and I dove in to the world of crawling, and as I evolved with crawling quickly so did my rigs.

The AX10 evolved from stock to a hybrid AXR10 with XR10 axle parts, custom CF chassis, custom CF wheels and several other custom aftermarket parts. It did have several different chassis’ in its life. Stock, HotRacing rockbuggy, UGC fastback, NCD Sudu1 and NCD Sudu1 FL (my own design). I really like the technical aspects and look of the comp crawlers. The development of solutions and making my own parts or sourcing them to get things the way I want was really rewarding and satisfying.

Link to AXR10 Sudu1 buildthread on RCC: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axia...aastnooits-axr10-2-2s-ncd-sudu1-sudu1-fl.html

Logically the crawling passion extended from shaft driven sportsman crawler to the MOA (motor on axle) class crawlers. I got the Axial XR10 when they first got out, and this crawler evolved to a similar path as my sportsman. From stock, to Y-town Beetlejuice V4 to Y-town Secret Agent 3.5 bodyless and bodied.

Link tot Beetlejuice buildtread on RCC: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-xr10/392836-haastnooits-old-skool-ytc-bj4.html
Link to SA3.5 buildtrhread on RCC: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-xr10/401688-haastnooits-ytc-secret-agent-3-5-a.html

Meanwhile I had accumulated lots of different RC’s, I started out with several Tamiya's (Plasma Edge, Ebbro 350R TA05IFS, Touareg CC01, Pajero CC01, Unimog CR01, Swift M03, Beetle M04L F103GT Advan Courage, Subaru Bratt, Grasshopper), some Traxxas cars (Slash 4x4, Summit), some HPI cars (Firestorm Flux, Blitz, Trophy truck), some Hong Nor trucks (SCRT10, X2CR pro) and some Axial cars (SCX10 Honcho, SCX10 Blazer kit build). Eventually I lost total interest in the hobby somewhere in 2014. Guess I could not challenge myself anymore after doing so many builds. A lot changed in my live back then and I sold all cars I had besides my first and the crawlers. Below a couple of sample pics of some of the cars I build, as I look at those I feel some regret sometimes.

In 2021 my daughter reignited the RC passion and I got back in. I got my crawlers out the attic, serviced them and build my daughter a AXR10 based on a used AX10 I bought an the spares I had (new Fastback II chassis).. But the focus is more on bashing then crawling because off my daughters preference and the fun we have when bashing together. Also the reason why I hang out here on AF nowadays.

Now with all the micro crawling going on I looked at those cars quite often but did not think it was for me. Last week I finally caved in and got myself the FMS FCX24 Power Wagon. I look forward to modding and the proces of upgrading my truck. I will be using this micro crawler in my backyard. I plan on rebuilding the small crawler course I once had incorporated in the garden. I will get to that when the weather is changing for the better. Now we have rain, rain and some more rain.

Quite the intro I must say, I will get the FCX out the box now and next post will be all about the FCX24.

 

[kspitters]

Well I jumped on the bandwagon and got myself a 1/24 scale micro crawler.

View attachment 289704


My first serious involvement with RC is with crawlers. After I got my first RC (Tamiya M03 Suzuki Swift) and second (HPI Firestorm flux) I bought the AX10 Scorpion kit with the Betty body. The look of the crawlers really enticed me and I dove in to the world of crawling, and as I evolved with crawling quickly so did my rigs.

The AX10 evolved from stock to a hybrid AXR10 with XR10 axle parts, custom CF chassis, custom CF wheels and several other custom aftermarket parts. It did have several different chassis’ in its life. Stock, HotRacing rockbuggy, UGC fastback, NCD Sudu1 and NCD Sudu1 FL (my own design). I really like the technical aspects and look of the comp crawlers. The development of solutions and making my own parts or sourcing them to get things the way I want was really rewarding and satisfying.

View attachment 289705

View attachment 289706

View attachment 289707

View attachment 289726


Link to AXR10 Sudu1 buildthread on RCC: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axia...aastnooits-axr10-2-2s-ncd-sudu1-sudu1-fl.html

Logically the crawling passion extended from shaft driven sportsman crawler to the MOA (motor on axle) class crawlers. I got the Axial XR10 when they first got out, and this crawler evolved to a similar path as my sportsman. From stock, to Y-town Beetlejuice V4 to Y-town Secret Agent 3.5 bodyless and bodied.

View attachment 289708

View attachment 289709

View attachment 289710

View attachment 289711

View attachment 289712


Link tot Beetlejuice buildtread on RCC: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-xr10/392836-haastnooits-old-skool-ytc-bj4.html
Link to SA3.5 buildtrhread on RCC: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-xr10/401688-haastnooits-ytc-secret-agent-3-5-a.html

Meanwhile I had accumulated lots of different RC’s, I started out with several Tamiya's (Plasma Edge, Ebbro 350R TA05IFS, Touareg CC01, Pajero CC01, Unimog CR01, Swift M03, Beetle M04L F103GT Advan Courage, Subaru Bratt, Grasshopper), some Traxxas cars (Slash 4x4, Summit), some HPI cars (Firestorm Flux, Blitz, Trophy truck), some Hong Nor trucks (SCRT10, X2CR pro) and some Axial cars (SCX10 Honcho, SCX10 Blazer kit build). Eventually I lost total interest in the hobby somewhere in 2014. Guess I could not challenge myself anymore after doing so many builds. A lot changed in my live back then and I sold all cars I had besides my first and the crawlers. Below a couple of sample pics of some of the cars I build, as I look at those I feel some regret sometimes.

View attachment 289725

View attachment 289723

View attachment 289713

View attachment 289724

View attachment 289714


In 2021 my daughter reignited the RC passion and I got back in. I got my crawlers out the attic, serviced them and build my daughter a AXR10 based on a used AX10 I bought an the spares I had (new Fastback II chassis).. But the focus is more on bashing then crawling because off my daughters preference and the fun we have when bashing together. Also the reason why I hang out here on AF nowadays.

Now with all the micro crawling going on I looked at those cars quite often but did not think it was for me. Last week I finally caved in and got myself the FMS FCX24 Power Wagon. I look forward to modding and the proces of upgrading my truck. I will be using this micro crawler in my backyard. I plan on rebuilding the small crawler course I once had incorporated in the garden. I will get to that when the weather is changing for the better. Now we have rain, rain and some more rain.

Quite the intro I must say, I will get the FCX out the box now and next post will be all about the FCX24.

That’s is pure eye candy. So excited to see where you go with this. Have fun!

 

[RCbuzz]

So awesome.. also.. The bug!!!!

 

[Haastnooit]

Yeah man, the bug is awesome. I really miss that one.

It is a Tamiya M04L chassis with TL01 suspension arms front and rear, hubs and universals. Wheels are HPI Vintage stockcar wheels and tires. DIY aluminium rear and front bumper with Bush devils lights if I am not mistaken. And some PE surfboards on the roof with DIY aluminium roofrails.

 

[RCbuzz]

Yeah man, the bug is awesome. I really miss that one.

It is a Tamiya M04L chassis with TL01 suspension arms front and rear, hubs and universals. Wheels are HPI Vintage stockcar wheels and tires. DIY aluminium rear and front bumper with Bush devils lights if I am not mistaken. And some PE surfboards on the roof with DIY aluminium roofrails.

Very nice!!

 

[Senton_Prime]

I doubt I'd ever get rid of those..
What's up with that spektrum programmer anyway!?

 

[Haastnooit]

Well if I did not sell those cars back then, I probalbly would not have the cars I have now. It is what it is, no sense dwelling on the past.

Got the FCX out of the box today and I played around with it a bit. First thing I noticed is the color, it looks more a copper/rust brown then red in my case. I ordered a blue one at first but changed my mind last minute and changed my order to a red one. As it is more copper/rust color I feel it is a good base to try out some weathering later. Never done that before, so I might have to give it a go on this one.

The Power Wagon looks really nice out of the box, although I think the cab is somewhat big relative to the wheelbase. Something that needs addressing in the future. I don’t really fancy the stock tractor wheels and tires, so those will be changed.

After first inspections I decided to order some upgrade parts for the first step of improving the truck. Main goal is to add weight, lower the center of gravity and stretch the car.

I ordered some Injora 1” beadlock wheels with all terrain A/T crawler tires to replace the stock wheels and tires. I will use them in combination with some Injora brass hexes. Also ordered the Injora brass steering link as the stock plastic one is flexing under pressure.

Then to add more weight down low on the truck I ordered the Injora brass outer portal covers to go on all four corners. And to cope with the added weight of the bigger wheels and brass portal covers I ordered the metal portal gears to replace the stock plastic ones.

Last but not least I ordered the RCAWD extended rear links to stretch the wheelbase, and gain more climbing ability and more natural looks.

While waiting on parts I will look at the stock suspension links and shocks. I think I will be running this on full droop to lower the height and COG of the truck. Included in the box is a o-ring set to make the shocks oil-filled, I will look in to incorporating those in the shocks next.

 

[King blitz]

Well I jumped on the bandwagon and got myself a 1/24 scale micro crawler.

View attachment 289704


My first serious involvement with RC is with crawlers. After I got my first RC (Tamiya M03 Suzuki Swift) and second (HPI Firestorm flux) I bought the AX10 Scorpion kit with the Betty body. The look of the crawlers really enticed me and I dove in to the world of crawling, and as I evolved with crawling quickly so did my rigs.

The AX10 evolved from stock to a hybrid AXR10 with XR10 axle parts, custom CF chassis, custom CF wheels and several other custom aftermarket parts. It did have several different chassis’ in its life. Stock, HotRacing rockbuggy, UGC fastback, NCD Sudu1 and NCD Sudu1 FL (my own design). I really like the technical aspects and look of the comp crawlers. The development of solutions and making my own parts or sourcing them to get things the way I want was really rewarding and satisfying.

View attachment 289705

View attachment 289706

View attachment 289707

View attachment 289726


Link to AXR10 Sudu1 buildthread on RCC: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axia...aastnooits-axr10-2-2s-ncd-sudu1-sudu1-fl.html

Logically the crawling passion extended from shaft driven sportsman crawler to the MOA (motor on axle) class crawlers. I got the Axial XR10 when they first got out, and this crawler evolved to a similar path as my sportsman. From stock, to Y-town Beetlejuice V4 to Y-town Secret Agent 3.5 bodyless and bodied.

View attachment 289708

View attachment 289709

View attachment 289710

View attachment 289711

View attachment 289712


Link tot Beetlejuice buildtread on RCC: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-xr10/392836-haastnooits-old-skool-ytc-bj4.html
Link to SA3.5 buildtrhread on RCC: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-xr10/401688-haastnooits-ytc-secret-agent-3-5-a.html

Meanwhile I had accumulated lots of different RC’s, I started out with several Tamiya's (Plasma Edge, Ebbro 350R TA05IFS, Touareg CC01, Pajero CC01, Unimog CR01, Swift M03, Beetle M04L F103GT Advan Courage, Subaru Bratt, Grasshopper), some Traxxas cars (Slash 4x4, Summit), some HPI cars (Firestorm Flux, Blitz, Trophy truck), some Hong Nor trucks (SCRT10, X2CR pro) and some Axial cars (SCX10 Honcho, SCX10 Blazer kit build). Eventually I lost total interest in the hobby somewhere in 2014. Guess I could not challenge myself anymore after doing so many builds. A lot changed in my live back then and I sold all cars I had besides my first and the crawlers. Below a couple of sample pics of some of the cars I build, as I look at those I feel some regret sometimes.

View attachment 289725

View attachment 289723

View attachment 289713

View attachment 289724

View attachment 289714


In 2021 my daughter reignited the RC passion and I got back in. I got my crawlers out the attic, serviced them and build my daughter a AXR10 based on a used AX10 I bought an the spares I had (new Fastback II chassis).. But the focus is more on bashing then crawling because off my daughters preference and the fun we have when bashing together. Also the reason why I hang out here on AF nowadays.

Now with all the micro crawling going on I looked at those cars quite often but did not think it was for me. Last week I finally caved in and got myself the FMS FCX24 Power Wagon. I look forward to modding and the proces of upgrading my truck. I will be using this micro crawler in my backyard. I plan on rebuilding the small crawler course I once had incorporated in the garden. I will get to that when the weather is changing for the better. Now we have rain, rain and some more rain.

Quite the intro I must say, I will get the FCX out the box now and next post will be all about the FCX24.

Very impressive..very knowledgeable.awesome collection

Well if I did not sell those cars back then, I probalbly would not have the cars I have now. It is what it is, no sense dwelling on the past.

Got the FCX out of the box today and I played around with it a bit. First thing I noticed is the color, it looks more a copper/rust brown then red in my case. I ordered a blue one at first but changed my mind last minute and changed my order to a red one. As it is more copper/rust color I feel it is a good base to try out some weathering later. Never done that before, so I might have to give it a go on this one.

View attachment 290012


The Power Wagon looks really nice out of the box, although I think the cab is somewhat big relative to the wheelbase. Something that needs addressing in the future. I don’t really fancy the stock tractor wheels and tires, so those will be changed.

After first inspections I decided to order some upgrade parts for the first step of improving the truck. Main goal is to add weight, lower the center of gravity and stretch the car.

View attachment 290013

View attachment 290014

View attachment 290015


I ordered some Injora 1” beadlock wheels with all terrain A/T crawler tires to replace the stock wheels and tires. I will use them in combination with some Injora brass hexes. Also ordered the Injora brass steering link as the stock plastic one is flexing under pressure.

Then to add more weight down low on the truck I ordered the Injora brass outer portal covers to go on all four corners. And to cope with the added weight of the bigger wheels and brass portal covers I ordered the metal portal gears to replace the stock plastic ones.

Last bus not least I ordered the RCAWD extended rear links to stretch the wheelbase, and gain more climbing ability and more natural looks.

While waiting on parts I will look at the stock suspension links and shocks. I think I will be running this on full droop to lower the height and COG of the truck. Included in the box is a o-ring set to make the shocks oil-filled, I will look in to incorporating those in the shocks next.

You mentioned that your going to stretch this? What's your plans on that? I stretched my Big Rock but not the way most would do it.do you plan to make a custom chassis? Or chop 2 original chassis like I did and brace them together?

 

[Haastnooit]

Very impressive..very knowledgeable.awesome collection

You mentioned that your going to stretch this? What's your plans on that? I stretched my Big Rock but not the way most would do it.do you plan to make a custom chassis? Or chop 2 original chassis like I did and brace them together?

Thank you for the compliments, much apreciated.

For starters I am going to stretch the wheelbase by replacing the stock rear links for a set longer ones. Perhaps I will attempt to create a custom chassis in the future, first I will need tot find out how the stock chassis works and if there is a need for a custom chassis.

Just got around to checking out the suspension and shocks on the stock FCX24. I must say the stock shocks are kind of nice, they seem well manufactured and function reasonably good. I had zero issues converting them to oil filled shocks. No leakage what so ever.

Only thing to watch for is to not fill them up completely. You will blow of the lower cap when compressing the shocks if there is to much oil in them. I did take my time and bleeded them properly to not overfill them. I left out the springs and will run a full droop setup. I don’t think it is necessary to replace the stock shocks right away, I will give them a go and wille upgrade in the future if I think this will bring me something more.

I also looked at the overall looks of the truck, and found two major points I want to address while waiting for parts. (1) The front bumper is huge and has a negative effect on the approach angle. (2) The rear roll cage emphasizes the “short” look of the rig. When I stretch the rear it will probably look stupid.

I 3D printed a front bumper with stinger I found on Thingiverse to tackle problem (1).

I am currently designing and 3D printing different bed layouts to be used on the rear of the truck. I am working on 2 versions at the moment, one partial flatbed and one partial flatbed with a fuel cell added. I don’t know how FMS imagined the installation of the stock fuel cell ? But I am not capable of keeping it together and getting it installed (in a good way) on the truck.

 

[Haastnooit]

Today I went ahead with the design and 3D printing on the rear bed options. First I made a small flatbed piece to check the fitment of the connectors to the chassis and then added a fuel cell to give it some more to look at.

I also made 2 versions of a longer and more filled up rearbed. I don’t know what you call this but I see it a lot on the Rock Pirates builds, and I like the looks on most rigs I see. The first version is a solid version with a filler cap, this bedpiece gives me some kind of “Dakar” feel. The second version is a real bed with just the headboard and the sides.

I think I will be running the full bed version 2 or the small fuel cell rearbed initially. I like the look of both, but I do think the full bed version has a slight preference. When I got the rearend stretched I will make the ‘final’ decision. Perhaps the look at the stretched rearbed gives me inspiration to come up with another cool option.

Below some pic of all different options installed, what do you guys think ? Which one is your favorite ?

Something else … I saw several comments on YT about the servo wire limiting the downtravel of the front axle due to the wire being short. Common practice to fix this issue is to rotate the ESC 90 degrees counter clockwise. So to be future proof when I want to change shocks and/or shock position to increase articulation I decided to do this mode now.

 

[kspitters]

Today I went ahead with the design and 3D printing on the rear bed options. First I made a small flatbed piece to check the fitment of the connectors to the chassis and then added a fuel cell to give it some more to look at.

View attachment 290505

View attachment 290506


I also made 2 versions of a longer and more filled up rearbed. I don’t know what you call this but I see it a lot on the Rock Pirates builds, and I like the looks on most rigs I see. The first version is a solid version with a filler cap, this bedpiece gives me some kind of “Dakar” feel. The second version is a real bed with just the headboard and the sides.

View attachment 290507

View attachment 290508


I think I will be running the full bed version 2 or the small fuel cell rearbed initially. I like the look of both, but I do think the full bed version has a slight preference. When I got the rearend stretched I will make the ‘final’ decision. Perhaps the look at the stretched rearbed gives me inspiration to come up with another cool option.

Below some pic of all different options installed, what do you guys think ? Which one is your favorite ?

View attachment 290513

View attachment 290510

View attachment 290511

View attachment 290512


Something else … I saw several comments on YT about the servo wire limiting the downtravel of the front axle due to the wire being short. Common practice to fix this issue is to rotate the ESC 90 degrees counter clockwise. So to be future proof when I want to change shocks and/or shock position to increase articulation I decided to do this mode now.

View attachment 290515

Sweet! I like #4 a lot!

 

[Haastnooit]

Thanks ... #4 is my favorite as well.

Body modification or mutilation ?

I decided to trim the big fenders so they would align with the front bumper better. Always a bit stressful to do irreversible things like trimming the body, you have to prepare well to not get disappointed.

First step is drawing the line tot where you want to cut the fenders in this case. A pencil works really well on a black surface like this, I forgot to take a picture. I took my time on making both sides as identical as possible. Then I convinced myself this was the right thing to do ... and make the first cut.

I decided not to disassemble the body, but keep it as a whole while trimming the fenders. You can opt to disassemble the black fenders and runningboards from the cab. I used my flat cutters to cut small “square” pieces off one at a time, the materials is thin so I think this is the most easy way to do the trimming. You have to be careful when reaching the end of the fender near the transition to the runningboards. The fender will easily crack in the extension you are cutting in this part of the fender.

I cleaned up the cuts with my Dremel and some sandpaper. Most of the cleaning up I did with the sandpaper as the Dremel is difficult to control. It will eat in the fender material easily and shave down to much material.

 

[Doom!]

Don't know how I missed this thread. Love what you've done/got planned for this. It really is a great little rig with a few mods. I'm liking the options you've printed for the bed. I had thought about trimming some of the fenders down and after seeing yours, I may give it a try.

I have two of these and one I went with the classic stake bed look. less performance but that's what the other one is for.

Here is my custom bed.

On my other one I swapped the grill guard for a 3d printed one.

Also swapped out the tires for InJora's and used the rims off of my FMS FJ.

Added 3d printed rear arms to stretch it out, much better stability wise.

Really looking forward to seeing yours progress!

 

[Haastnooit]

Thanks ! I agree, the platform is fun. It takes a little getting used to the small stuff, but I am getting there I am thinking of getting one of those magnifying lamps for my workbench to make wrenching easier .

Cool trucks you have, I dig the grill guard on the yellow truck.

 

[Haastnooit]

Still waiting for parts, I hope they will be delivered tomorrow … Man it sucks when you have to depend on online RC hobby shops because you don’t have a RC hobby shop near you. Everything takes a long time to get here and you kind off loose the momentum in your builds. I have to really plan things out in advance to minimize the waiting …

I addressed a minor annoying point with the stock FMS radio today. The radio works fine, has a nice feel to it and has some cool features with the dipswitsches on top to program the ESC. Only downside is that it has a small base and you can’t set it down standing up, you have to lay it down.

So out came the ruler and calipers and I fired up the CAD program to design a base to clip on to the remote. The base of the remote has compound arches that are near impossible to measure, so to get It right it is a process of trial and error.

After 2 small revisions of the original design it finally fits the base of the remote.

Next I added a little lip at the front and a heel piece at the back side to keep it attached to the base of the remote. The handle at the front of the grip on the remote has complex curves in different directions, it would be a lot of work to design and form the inside of the lip to perfectly fit this section.

So I took the easy way out and 3D printed a straight lip, then applied some heat to the part and formed it while fitting it to the remote. This works very well and I am sure it is a better result then trying to replicate all the curves in to the design. The addition of the lip and heel piece work great to keep the add-on base attached to the remote. To add to the stability I made the footprint bigger on version 5.

Almost there … Two minor issues still to resolve. I did not fillet the heel correctly, so when holding the remote with the base attached, there is a “sharp” edge contacting the palm of your hand. Not a real problem, but not really comfortable also. So I filleted the corners correctly on version 6.

Issue number 2: When setting the remote down, sometimes the base plate comes loose. I solved this by slighty enlarging the heel on version 7.

The final solution …

Next update with new parts I hope ....

 

[kspitters]

Still waiting for parts, I hope they will be delivered tomorrow … Man it sucks when you have to depend on online RC hobby shops because you don’t have a RC hobby shop near you. Everything takes a long time to get here and you kind off loose the momentum in your builds. I have to really plan things out in advance to minimize the waiting …

I addressed a minor annoying point with the stock FMS radio today. The radio works fine, has a nice feel to it and has some cool features with the dipswitsches on top to program the ESC. Only downside is that it has a small base and you can’t set it down standing up, you have to lay it down.

So out came the ruler and calipers and I fired up the CAD program to design a base to clip on to the remote. The base of the remote has compound arches that are near impossible to measure, so to get It right it is a process of trial and error.


View attachment 291082


After 2 small revisions of the original design it finally fits the base of the remote.

View attachment 291083

View attachment 291084


Next I added a little lip at the front and a heel piece at the back side to keep it attached to the base of the remote. The handle at the front of the grip on the remote has complex curves in different directions, it would be a lot of work to design and form the inside of the lip to perfectly fit this section.

View attachment 291085

View attachment 291086


So I took the easy way out and 3D printed a straight lip, then applied some heat to the part and formed it while fitting it to the remote. This works very well and I am sure it is a better result then trying to replicate all the curves in to the design. The addition of the lip and heel piece work great to keep the add-on base attached to the remote. To add to the stability I made the footprint bigger on version 5.

View attachment 291087


Almost there … Two minor issues still to resolve. I did not fillet the heel correctly, so when holding the remote with the base attached, there is a “sharp” edge contacting the palm of your hand. Not a real problem, but not really comfortable also. So I filleted the corners correctly on version 6. When setting the remote down, sometimes the base plate comes loose. I solved this by slighty enlarging the heel on version 7. The final solution …

View attachment 291088

View attachment 291089


Next update with new parts I hope ....

Looks good! Love seeing the design process

 

[Doom!]

Great thinking, it annoys me too.

 

[Haastnooit]

Thanks guys

Finally … all parts ordered were deliverd yesterday. Below a picture of all upgrades for the first round of improvement for this truck. As mentioned before the first goal is to add weight, lower the center of gravity and stretch the truck for better looks and climbing. Also I do a must-do upgrade by replacing the stock steering link. And because I think wheels and tires could be better looking then the stockers, those will be replaced.

The flimsy stock plastic steering links are the first parts to get changed, I opted to replace them for the Injora brass steering links. More sturdy and adds more weight below the chassis line to aid in bringing the COG down.

Very nicely made and it comes with extra pillowballs, o-rings and screws, a plus for Injora there.

Next step is installing the RCAWD extended rear link kit to stretch the wheelbase by around 35mm, it claims. So for reference below a picture of the stock wheelbase.

The RCAWD extended rear link kit comes with a replacement driveshaft and pillowballs for the shocks as well. Also some spare hardware and o-rings are included.

Another weight gain down low on the truck to better the COG and stability.

The kit supplies 2 o-rings to be used on the pillowballs (see below), but I found articulation being limited when using both o-rings. So I opted to disassemble and use only one on the smaller end of the pillowballs and installed that side to the chassis or axle.

The driveshaft is attached with 3 screws at each end, 1 caphead pin screw and 2 grub screws with smaller hex sizes (.05” for the caphead and .9mm for the grub screws).

And stretch ….

That is it for now. I really need to get a magnifying lamp to make working on the small scale trucks more easy. I feel the tiny screws are real fiddly sometimes and when using artificial light things get more difficult to see right. Guess that means I am a old man now …

I will be back at it tomorrow … see ya later !

 

[fish]

So i bough these Hoovo batteries for the Power Wagon and the connector is different.
Amazon recommended them too.

What is the FMS batter connector type?
These Hoovo's gonna be okay?

 

[Haastnooit]

Thanks for your appreciation for my buildthread

The stock connector is called 2 pin Molex .
The hoovo’s will be alright if you change connector and can make them fit the chassis.