Handling, I think I ruined it and can’t get home

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oldgoat

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I have a Vorteks, and know it’s not a handling race machine… but it won’t turn at all. I did get caught up in all the changing of some parts and fluids. Except for the longer arms I think I’m back to stock set up. I think I now have 15 front and 10 rear diff fluid. I’ve been trying toe and camber changes front and rear. Nothing seems to help. If I go into a corne fast it just spins out. If I’m just rolling it has no turning radius.
Just need some help to get it kinda back home. I’ve never adjusted it but could the slipper be to tight?
 
Wise man once said-

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I have a Vorteks, and know it’s not a handling race machine… but it won’t turn at all. I did get caught up in all the changing of some parts and fluids. Except for the longer arms I think I’m back to stock set up. I think I now have 15 front and 10 rear diff fluid. I’ve been trying toe and camber changes front and rear. Nothing seems to help. If I go into a corne fast it just spins out. If I’m just rolling it has no turning radius.
Just need some help to get it kinda back home. I’ve never adjusted it but could the slipper be to tight?

I'd 0 it all out and start over man.
The rear has the built in toe that usually makes up most of your straight line stability.

I'm wondering how much of this is in your shock tuning and not the alignment?
How does the car settle in a turn on and off throttle?
Example- if your on throttle and turned left- if the right rear spring is soft it'll pick up the left front and you'll lose steering.
If your off throttle and the front is too soft it'll dive on right picking up rear left losing traction and spin.

You need your shocks tuned as much as you need a decent alignment.
Your fluids aren't far from stock so I wouldn't assume that was truly the issue. (10k being stock)

Also noting the amount of drag braking effects off throttle steering. Essentially same as tapping the brakes in a corner. Great way to loose the rear traction by unloading the rear weight
 
Im beginner lvl however imo...
lubricant the diffs could help with handling.
Lowering the body could also help.
Less preload on springs might help.
My favorite. Balanced wheels seem to get better traction to me
This can be done with the trucks hubs. the hub cup. To hold. No need for special tools.

If sway bars are a opinion that would help a LOT with flipping.

Checking shock oil if your out that would help.
Getting smaller wheels would definitely help stopping it from flipping.

A bit of wheel spacers also.

Hope some of this helps!
 
I have a Vorteks, and know it’s not a handling race machine… but it won’t turn at all. I did get caught up in all the changing of some parts and fluids. Except for the longer arms I think I’m back to stock set up. I think I now have 15 front and 10 rear diff fluid. I’ve been trying toe and camber changes front and rear. Nothing seems to help. If I go into a corne fast it just spins out. If I’m just rolling it has no turning radius.
Just need some help to get it kinda back home. I’ve never adjusted it but could the slipper be to tight?
Thicker rear diff fluid. Go up to 30-50k. It will make the rear lose traction and turn. The wider the trucks and combine that with a slipper clutch you will get bad understeer. Also the servo saver. If ur willing to cut some of the radio box to fit a losi LMT saver ur handling will be transformed
 
Thicker rear diff fluid. Go up to 30-50k. It will make the rear lose traction and turn. The wider the trucks and combine that with a slipper clutch you will get bad understeer. Also the servo saver. If ur willing to cut some of the radio box to fit a losi LMT saver ur handling will be transformed

Thicker fluid for more steering? Thats one I've never heard in 30 years.
 
Are you on the original servo set up? Steering starts at the servo so I personally would start there and work my way down the linkage and then suspension.
 
Thicker fluid for more steering? Thats one I've never heard in 30 years.
The rear will break loose quicker with thicker rear fluid. Steering with power. Thicker front fluid helps steering under braking if you can turn with power and you must come to almost a dead stop to steer you need to work on the rear diff. Thst is my understanding with my felony when i had trouble qith the rear not wanting to break loose
Screenshot_20231110-001123_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
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I have a Vorteks, and know it’s not a handling race machine… but it won’t turn at all. I did get caught up in all the changing of some parts and fluids. Except for the longer arms I think I’m back to stock set up. I think I now have 15 front and 10 rear diff fluid. I’ve been trying toe and camber changes front and rear. Nothing seems to help. If I go into a corne fast it just spins out. If I’m just rolling it has no turning radius.
Just need some help to get it kinda back home. I’ve never adjusted it but could the slipper be to tight?

Get rid of the wide arms & make sure you set your end points on the radio. Yes, try loosening your slipper a half turn.
 
The rear will break loose quicker with thicker rear fluid. Steering with power. Thicker front fluid helps steering under braking if you can turn with power and you must come to almost a dead stop to steer you need to work on the rear diff. Thst is my understanding with my felony when i had trouble qith the rear not wanting to break loose
View attachment 331081

Right, but that isn't actually fixing the issue. Sliding the rear to turn is a band-aid fix to get the car/truck to rotate. In an ideal situation you should be keeping traction at all 4 corners and still having rotation/steering.

Realistically-
Thick front fluid on power is going to keep both front wheels trying to turn the same speed. This is bad in a corner as the inside tire needs to be turning at a slower speed (inside tire is traveling a shorter distance then the outside tire). Fronts turning the same speed will only result in understeer/ or push as some call it.
You need them to turn at different speeds to keep traction/ not push.

To thin oil in back will cause your inside tire to spin and not your outer. Spinning the inside will cause you to rely on your outer tire fully for traction.
To thick will cause them to want to turn the same speed resulting in the sliding effect. Once again the inside tire needs to turn at a different speed then the outer to maintain traction.

Tuning with oils lets you figure out what works best for you and your driving style. Some like more push/more slide. Some like less..


From the sound of it as I stated originally- sounds to me more of a shock tuning issue to me. If your shocks aren't setup for the oils in your diffs, and your vehicles characteristics then its just not going to work no matter what you do.

Handling is a whole package. Diffs and shocks and alignment. They need to all work together.
 
The Vorteks was my least favorite 3S BLX because the overall handling on it just sucked.
  • SWB Chassis
  • Short Control Arms (even shorter than the Typhon 3S)
  • Tires sicked
  • High CoG
This entire thing was a recipe for spinning out constantly.

Sold it.
 
Right, but that isn't actually fixing the issue. Sliding the rear to turn is a band-aid fix to get the car/truck to rotate. In an ideal situation you should be keeping traction at all 4 corners and still having rotation/steering.

Realistically-
Thick front fluid on power is going to keep both front wheels trying to turn the same speed. This is bad in a corner as the inside tire needs to be turning at a slower speed (inside tire is traveling a shorter distance then the outside tire). Fronts turning the same speed will only result in understeer/ or push as some call it.
You need them to turn at different speeds to keep traction/ not push.

To thin oil in back will cause your inside tire to spin and not your outer. Spinning the inside will cause you to rely on your outer tire fully for traction.
To thick will cause them to want to turn the same speed resulting in the sliding effect. Once again the inside tire needs to turn at a different speed then the outer to maintain traction.

Tuning with oils lets you figure out what works best for you and your driving style. Some like more push/more slide. Some like less..


From the sound of it as I stated originally- sounds to me more of a shock tuning issue to me. If your shocks aren't setup for the oils in your diffs, and your vehicles characteristics then its just not going to work no matter what you do.

Handling is a whole package. Diffs and shocks and alignment. They need to all work together.
Something has to break loose at one point if the car doesbt want to turn. The servo saver could be the big culprit. My outcast 4s v2 just hated to turn on power. Until i shoved a losi LMT servo saver into it and not it turns on a dime
 
Something has to break loose at one point if the car doesbt want to turn. The servo saver could be the big culprit. My outcast 4s v2 just hated to turn on power. Until i shoved a losi LMT servo saver into it and not it turns on a dime

I fully agree on a weak servo saver causing inconsistent steering.
My slash 4x4 is horrible about the steering walking around mid corner because of that. You can watch them give back and forth mid corner with the servo staying put.
I bash the snot out of that truck and leave it loose so I don't kill servos. If I was trying to make it more consistent I'd use a solid servo arm and be done 😅
 
The Vorteks was my least favorite 3S BLX because the overall handling on it just sucked.
  • SWB Chassis
  • Short Control Arms (even shorter than the Typhon 3S)
  • Tires sicked
  • High CoG
This entire thing was a recipe for spinning out constantly.

Sold it.

The Vorteks is one of the best handling of the 4x4 line.

 
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