HELP I need grease for my vorteks diffs! (Front and back)

[vorteks maniac]

I have no clue what grease to get for my vorteks. There’s so many different types!

 

[Shadows]

I don't know if the Vorteks has plastic ring gears or not. If they're metal, I like either Lucas Red & Tacky, or an NLGI #3 open gear grease with moly like Jet Lube. If they're plastic, then definitely a silicone grease like Sil Glyde.

Okay. I just checked. They're the basic 3s plastic ring gears. I should've known that already. Wasn't thinking. If you haven't upgraded to steel differentials, definitely use a silicone grease. Petroleum based grease (even white lithium) will degrade that plastic, reducing the gear tooth life. I use Sil Glyde silicone grease for different purposes, and have found it to be the most robust silicone grease so far.

 

[MiniTard.Outcast6s]

I use red n tacky with no issues, many on the forum have as well

 

[RCbuzz]

This is good stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92016-Silicone-Translucent/dp/B0081JE1PM

Getting pricey these days though..

 

[Shadows]

This is good stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92016-Silicone-Translucent/dp/B0081JE1PM

Getting pricey these days though..

Believe it or not, Super Lube's silicone grease has a PAO synthetic base oil in it. It doesn't tell ya' that on the product label, but the MSDS reveals all. I love Super Lube products, but buyer beware. Anyone with RC models that have plastic differential gears would be wise to stay far away from anything except a more pure silicone grease. Any other grease WILL soften the plastic teeth over time.

 

[RCbuzz]

Believe it or not, Super Lube's silicone grease has a PAO synthetic base oil in it. It doesn't tell ya' that on the product label, but the MSDS reveals all. I love Super Lube products, but buyer beware. Anyone with RC models that have plastic differential gears would be wise to stay far away from anything except silicone grease. Any other grease WILL soften the plastic teeth over time.

That is interesting, been using it for some time, both the Silicone and Synthetic.

They seem to work great, the Synthetic works nicely in bearings and I typically use the Silicone on the diff's (plastic ones on the 3S included).

I did notice this in the description: "Will not react with rubber or plastic" so I wonder how their formulation helps with this.

 

[Shadows]

That is interesting, been using it for some time, both the Silicone and Synthetic.

They seem to work great, the Synthetic works really nicely in bearings and I typically use the Silicone on the diff's (plastic ones on the 3S included).

I did notice this in the description: "Will not react with rubber or plastic" so I wonder how their formulation helps with this.

Well, I wouldn't worry too much, as their super pure synthetic PAO oils are definitely easier on plastics and rubber than regular petroleum products, but more of a pure silicone grease is still best for plastic, nonetheless. Super Lube's PAO synthetic grease is awesome for ball bearings. It doesn't have a fancy color but it's as good as marine grease for corrosion, while being compatible with the basic petroleum lithium greases that bearings usually come with. Most blue marine greases are calcium thickened and cannot mix with anything else.

 

[Bustedaw11]

Red n tacky over here.

"I put that crap on everything! "



But seriously... I do... Best grease I've found. Isn't stinky either so wife doesn't care when I'm workin with it on the dining room table= bonus!

 

[Shadows]

Red n tacky over here.

"I put that crap on everything! "



But seriously... I do... Best grease I've found. Isn't stinky either so wife doesn't care when I'm workin with it on the dining room table= bonus!

As long as ya' like it. Red & Tacky reeks of EP additives. A lot of toxic industrial waste has that kind of stuff in it from cutting fluids. Super Lube synthetic doesn't smell like that because it's synthetic base oil is just that darn good, (it doesn't need those particular additives) but Red & Tacky is better for metal gears because it's......tacky lol.

 

[GraniteFox]

Cow RC.

 

[Johnny b]

I use whatever has been in my grease gun for last 15 years.

 

[vorteks maniac]

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[Dan B.]

Thanks for all the help guys!

Now that you have several conflicting opinions for very different reasons, you’re welcome! Let me offer another. And bear in mind that the NYLON based gears in you diffs will not degrade as much or at all as compared to the plastic gears of yore, which is why many old timers will always tell you it’s the end of the world if you use a petroleum grease. This is the best I’ve found, for metal or plastic, it meets multiple MIL specs, and gives you mad cool points from your gun loving friends.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGQV34I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[bennie 8s]

Anyone ever use this stuff? And do you know if it works well or Naa?

 

[Shadows]

Now that you have several conflicting opinions for very different reasons, you’re welcome! Let me offer another. And bear in mind that the NYLON based gears in you diffs will not degrade as much or at all as compared to the plastic gears of yore, which is why many old timers will always tell you it’s the end of the world if you use a petroleum grease. This is the best I’ve found, for metal or plastic, it meets multiple MIL specs, and gives you mad cool points from your gun loving friends.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGQV34I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nylon, although quite tough, does have pores that absorb petroleum. Petroleum products can degrade even nylon over time. Why chance it? It's not that fussy to get some decently pure silicone grease. Fancy gun lube is BS anyway. It's like buying green shock seal grease in little tubes marketed for RC at an exorbitant price. Most grease (if one likes grease for firearms) will do for guns. I recently used Super Lube's synthetic grease on a sig P-938 because I already have it. They have a synthetic oil. Synthetic motor oil laying around would work as long as you didn't mind it's chemical additives. Heck, even lucas synthetic oil stabilizer would do for things like the slides. Can use 3 in 1 or Wal-Mart lubricating oil in the barrels to prevent rust. Wally mart lube oil can be used on slides if grease isn't preferred. 'Gun lube' is BUUUULL.

 

[Dan B.]

Nylon, although quite tough, does have pores that absorb petroleum. Petroleum products can degrade even nylon over time. Why chance it? It's not that fussy to get some decently pure silicone grease. Fancy gun lube is BS anyway. It's like buying green shock seal grease in little tubes marketed for RC at an exorbitant price. Most grease (if one likes grease for firearms) will do for guns. I recently used Super Lube's synthetic grease on an sig P-938 because I already have it. They have a synthetic oil. Synthetic motor oil laying around would work as long as you didn't mind it's chemical additives. Heck, even lucas synthetic oil stabilizer would do for things like the slides. Can use 3 in 1 or Wal-Mart lubricating oil in the barrels to prevent rust. Wally mart lube oil can be used on slides if grease isn't preferred. 'Gun lube' is BUUUULL.

Agreed, for the most part. That Umbrella grease isn’t a maintenance product, it’s an assembly lube to prevent galling when building the uppers on AR’s. Its use is essentially a one and done, that’s why so many say that those tiny little tubs would last a kitchen table gunsmith forever. Not so much when you’re using it to lube the rings and pinions in your diffs. I like it because it doesn’t fling off as much as most and doesn’t melt out of the diffs when they get hot.
I do not use expensive gun oils either. Like you mentioned, any good light machine oil works just fine. But it’s funny you should say that anyway as part of a discussion in which you’re telling people not to use petroleum based lubes or greases on any parts made of nylon, plastic, etc. When was the last time you saw pretty much any firearm that didn’t have any plastic/polymer/nylon parts at all? Hmmmm…

 

[Shadows]

Agreed, for the most part. That Umbrella grease isn’t a maintenance product, it’s an assembly lube to prevent galling when building the uppers on AR’s. Its use is essentially a one and done, that’s why so many say that those tiny little tubs would last a kitchen table gunsmith forever. Not so much when you’re using it to lube the rings and pinions in your diffs. I like it because it doesn’t fling off as much as most and doesn’t melt out of the diffs when they get hot.
I do not use expensive gun oils either. Like you mentioned, any good light machine oil works just fine. But it’s funny you should say that anyway as part of a discussion in which you’re telling people not to use petroleum based lubes or greases on any parts made of nylon, plastic, etc. When was the last time you saw pretty much any firearm that didn’t have any plastic/polymer/nylon parts at all? Hmmmm…

I'll concede to that. They certainly do. Even my (all metal) sig has nylon pieces attached to springs. I use silicone on those little springs because of it, then whatever petroleum/synthetic anywhere else. I'm just not impressed with little containers of 'special' novelty products like you mentioned. If it sticks that well, then it's probably just some sort of thick grease. Maybe it's just a synthetic NLGI #4. Something that should be acquired in a larger amount for less money. Like the shock seal grease I mentioned. Green Slime is a rip-off.

 

[Dan B.]

I'll concede to that. They certainly do. Even my (all metal) sig has nylon pieces attached to springs. I use silicone on those little springs because of it, then whatever petroleum/synthetic anywhere else. I'm just not impressed with little containers of 'special' novelty products like you mentioned. If it sticks that well, then it's probably just some sort of thick grease. Maybe it's just a synthetic NLGI #4. Something that should be acquired in a larger amount for less money. Like the shock seal grease I mentioned. Green Slime is a rip-off.

You’re probably right, just really good thick grease. Someone told me awhile back that getting and maintaining MIL specs will add a lot of money to pretty much any product. It is good stuff, though.
Most of my pistols just get cleaned and lubed with either 3-in-1 or Remington gun oil, which is pretty much the same thing and also inexpensive. The long guns get the same treatment with a thin film of grease here and there where needed. As long as they’re protected from oxidation/corrosion then less is definitely more in terms of quantity of lube. They run better with minimal lube. Most people these days seem to use way too much.
I have an AR style 12 gauge I loaned to a buddy last year and when he brought it back it was so greasy you almost couldn’t hold it. I stripped the whole thing and cleaned it before I put it away. Silliness.