I have a V5 Kraton 6s BLX. I have replaced the front and rear bulkheads with stock ones. I didn't see anything wrong with the original ones but I was worried there may be a tolerance issue I couldn't see. I have also replace both gears in the rear diff Pinion and spur 3 times. I checked the bearings, made sure to shim the diff. I don't even bash this thing very hard. I accelerate hard and brake hard up and down the road in front of my house. I'm at a total loss here. The first rear diff went out when I went to a clay track. I noticed it started to grind when braking after the front straight. Is braking what's causing my diffs to destroy themselves? Since the clay track I haven't jumped it at all and have just drove it hard in and out of my cul-de-sac.
My kraton is eating diffs and I don't jump it!
- Thread starter Robeacon
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Are you shimming the input or only the ring gear output bearing? Spiral cut 43/10?
Let's see a picture of the assembly from underneath...
In plastic bulkheads I set up with zero gear lash, once the bulkhead cover is tightened up it should bind and remove my thinnest shim from the assembly until it frees up. Once that's spinning a couple thousand rpm composite will expand with heat and too much backlash will spin teeth once it warms up in operation.
Aluminum carriers and bulkheads are different setup with thermal expansion and mesh clearance.
Let's see a picture of the assembly from underneath...
In plastic bulkheads I set up with zero gear lash, once the bulkhead cover is tightened up it should bind and remove my thinnest shim from the assembly until it frees up. Once that's spinning a couple thousand rpm composite will expand with heat and too much backlash will spin teeth once it warms up in operation.
Aluminum carriers and bulkheads are different setup with thermal expansion and mesh clearance.
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You never really said what part of the diff is breaking. You probably need to shim the diffs though.
Edit: I'm dumb, he said ring gears
Edit: I'm dumb, he said ring gears
Last edited:
SrC
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Hard Acceleration and Braking will destroy the diffs sooner than later. Easy now. Feather your braking. Not hard slamming them. Seems you are eating these way too soon IMHO. I can relate. Been there.
I will assume you grease the Input and mains gear. If the input and mains gears are in questionable condition, don't reuse them. And replace both as a set. Or the problem will just repeat itself. And one worn input gear, for example will take out the main gear. Buy the whole new diff. from JennysRc.com.
Are you using the stock diff oils? I use 60kFr/500k cnter/ 20-30k Rear, FWIW. Stock oils are too thin. (only 10k/100k/10k) May may not be the direct cause. But this will make for a better durable setup overall.
I think you're shimming may be the main issue here . IDK. Not enough shims?. Also double check that the Input gear (2) Ball Bearings are in good condition. If not the Input gear will misalign to the Mains gear under load, despite it being initially shimmed well.
I always stayed with the plastic stocker Bulkheads for many years. Never an issue for me. $Alloy$ Bulkheads would just be a Band-Aid approach. May not solve the issue for you.
Simply a Heavy Throttle finger and perhaps way too much ESC Punch could be the issue. Add to that driver input and driving on high grip pavement. Drop the Punch down some. Any idea what punch level it is at? Lower your brake force as well. Also, What are your brakes set to?? May be too much brake force as well. Learn more about your ESC paramaters. Get the ESC Programmer to do it. Much easier. Read the ESC manual better in regards.
>You probably have a combination of factors causing this. Cover all your bases.
I will assume you grease the Input and mains gear. If the input and mains gears are in questionable condition, don't reuse them. And replace both as a set. Or the problem will just repeat itself. And one worn input gear, for example will take out the main gear. Buy the whole new diff. from JennysRc.com.
Are you using the stock diff oils? I use 60kFr/500k cnter/ 20-30k Rear, FWIW. Stock oils are too thin. (only 10k/100k/10k) May may not be the direct cause. But this will make for a better durable setup overall.
I think you're shimming may be the main issue here . IDK. Not enough shims?. Also double check that the Input gear (2) Ball Bearings are in good condition. If not the Input gear will misalign to the Mains gear under load, despite it being initially shimmed well.
I always stayed with the plastic stocker Bulkheads for many years. Never an issue for me. $Alloy$ Bulkheads would just be a Band-Aid approach. May not solve the issue for you.
Simply a Heavy Throttle finger and perhaps way too much ESC Punch could be the issue. Add to that driver input and driving on high grip pavement. Drop the Punch down some. Any idea what punch level it is at? Lower your brake force as well. Also, What are your brakes set to?? May be too much brake force as well. Learn more about your ESC paramaters. Get the ESC Programmer to do it. Much easier. Read the ESC manual better in regards.
>You probably have a combination of factors causing this. Cover all your bases.
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slick2500
Anything will break if you drive it wrong enough.
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Hard Acceleration and Braking will destroy the diffs sooner than later. Easy now. Feather your braking. Not hard slamming them. Seems you are eating these way too soon IMHO. I can relate. Been there.
I will assume you grease the Input and mains gear. If the input and mains gears are in questionable condition, don't reuse them. And replace both as a set. Or the problem will just repeat itself. And one worn input gear, for example will take out the main gear. Buy the whole new diff. from JennysRc.com.
Are you using the stock diff oils? I use 60kFr/500k cnter/ 20-30k Rear, FWIW. Stock oils are too thin. (only 10k/100k/10k) May may not be the direct cause. But this will make for a better durable setup overall.
I think you're shimming may be the main issue here . IDK. Not enough shims?. Also double check that the Input gear (2) Ball Bearings are in good condition. If not the Input gear will misalign to the Mains gear under load, despite it being initially shimmed well.
I always stayed with the plastic stocker Bulkheads for many years. Never an issue for me. $Alloy$ Bulkheads would just be a Band-Aid approach. May not solve the issue for you.
Simply a Heavy Throttle finger and perhaps way too much ESC Punch could be the issue. Add to that driver input and driving on high grip pavement. Drop the Punch down some. Any idea what punch level it is at? Lower your brake force as well. Also, What are your brakes set to?? May be too much brake force as well. Learn more about your ESC paramaters. Get the ESC Programmer to do it. Much easier. Read the ESC manual better in regards.
>You probably have a combination of factors causing this. Cover all your bases.
Especially on high grip surfaces.
Cheese diffs. But they shouldnt be breaking if u don't jump it. Did you shik the ring gear? Exessive slop will destroy any gear
slick2500
Anything will break if you drive it wrong enough.
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Huh?
Typo mixed two threads
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Crap happens.
Me too guilty of that.
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Please post detailed photos so that we can diagnose it correctly.
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Thanks for all the responses. I'll have to clear a spot on my work bench I currently have a crashed YAK 54 plane that I picked up for $20 taking up all my space. I'll see if I can get some pics posted in a few days. I REALLY want to get the kraton running again. I see these people bashing the ever living snot out of them and I want to do the same!.
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Your input gear needs shims.
Some cheese will work perfectly
Some cheese will work perfectly
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What kind of cheese do they like? Gouda? Brie? aged cheddar?Your input gear needs shims.
Some cheese will work perfectly
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Swiss cheese, different size holes for different applications 
You seem a little light on grease too.
You seem a little light on grease too.
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Yeah input gear has way too much Fore and Aft slop for sure.
Could be the BB's are toast, or the Input cup is not installed completely/correctly onto the Input gear. Generally , shimming is the answer, but having all that slop movement is not simply because of lack of shimming in the first place. I would remove the input Cup/ input Gear, BB's and all to have have a closer inspection. Something is wrong there. Better to replace the 2 BB's while you are in there. They can wear out quickly, the outer smaller one fails first, gets hot, and then this takes out the larger Inner Input gear and BB. Bad BB's can even make the Bulkhead Plastic melt. Been there. Stocker Bulkheads are cheap to replace when that is all you need.
It is very rare that I ever needed to shim the Input gear. But I have before. And many others also did this. Need to look over things well before going that route, IMHO.
Best to replace the stocker Input cups all around with M2C's. The Safe-D stocker ones plain suck, and usually wobble. This alone ruins the 2 input gear BB's.
Could be the BB's are toast, or the Input cup is not installed completely/correctly onto the Input gear. Generally , shimming is the answer, but having all that slop movement is not simply because of lack of shimming in the first place. I would remove the input Cup/ input Gear, BB's and all to have have a closer inspection. Something is wrong there. Better to replace the 2 BB's while you are in there. They can wear out quickly, the outer smaller one fails first, gets hot, and then this takes out the larger Inner Input gear and BB. Bad BB's can even make the Bulkhead Plastic melt. Been there. Stocker Bulkheads are cheap to replace when that is all you need.
It is very rare that I ever needed to shim the Input gear. But I have before. And many others also did this. Need to look over things well before going that route, IMHO.
Best to replace the stocker Input cups all around with M2C's. The Safe-D stocker ones plain suck, and usually wobble. This alone ruins the 2 input gear BB's.
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- Thread starter
- #18
I was pretty sure that was all tight and shimmed when I put it together but I'll have to disassemble and see what I did! Would you you shim behind the bb in the bulkhead?Yeah input gear has way too much Fore and Aft slop for sure.
Could be the BB's are toast, or the Input cup is not installed completely/correctly onto the Input gear. Generally , shimming is the answer, but having all that slop movement is not simply because of lack of shimming in the first place. I would remove the input Cup/ input Gear, BB's and all to have have a closer inspection. Something is wrong there. Better to replace the 2 BB's while you are in there. They can wear out quickly, the outer smaller one fails first, gets hot, and then this takes out the larger Inner Input gear BB. Bad BB's can even make the Bulkhead Plastic melt. Been there. Stocker Bulkheads are cheap to replace when that is all you need.
It is very rare that I ever needed to shim the Input gear. But I have before. And many others also did this. Need to look over things well before going that route, IMHO.
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As SrC said the input gear bearing as side to side play. M2c parts.
Hmm..cheese to go with the chocolate syrup? Not sure that's a good mix, sounds gross. Who am I to judge?Swiss cheese, different size holes for different applications
You seem a little light on grease too.
In the above video, there is a whole lot of movement going on with the pinion shaft for sure! Something is amiss there. I'm guessing the input cup is too far away from the gearbox, allowing too much freeplay of the input shaft.. You got some water and dirt getting in there it appears by the color of the grease. Make sure the screws that hold the gearbox to the chassis are good and tight. Loose screws there will allow dirt and water to enter the gearbox easily.
