Typhon Hot Racing Shock Bodies on 3S Typhon or other 3S Vehicles and diff questions.

[slick2500]

Nice. I bought a couple of sets of m2c +5 , 17mm hex adapters and also two pairs of hot racing +10 ones. I like the M2C adapters, but not the hot racing ones. And of course, now there’s a lot of knock off brands that are much cheaper than the $45 M2c ones.

My only complaint about the Redcat ones is the rubber orings to hold in the hinge pins, idk who though that was a good idea.

 

[Avyn Nix]

What’s the advantage to widening and buggy off of the hexes would that make it steer worse.

 

[Velodromed]

My only complaint about the Redcat ones is the rubber orings to hold in the hinge pins, idk who though that was a good idea.

That does not sound effective…duck tape would probably do a better job

 

[Avyn Nix]

How would these eBay shocks be they have massive 4.5mm shock shafts and only $40.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334030945482
Here’s my current build before it broke.

 

[Velodromed]

How would these eBay shocks be they have massive 4.5mm shock shafts and only $40.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334030945482
Here’s my current build before it broke.
View attachment 272365View attachment 272366

Never seen those. Well, the rod ends are week looking and not sure if that 4.5mm shaft size means only those would work. Hopefully the aluminum is decent, otherwise the top shock mounts could crack. Not having a wrench lug thing on the top of the shock body would drive me nuts when removing the cap. Ugh, just noticed the spring cups. I don’t like that it’s made of aluminum, it looks weak also. And I have no idea how the innerds are, but if they are like the outters… he’ll man I’m just suspicious of cheap shocks in general man.

I love 6s shocks and have had them on all six or so of my 3/4s cars for a bit over two years. On the 3s cars I run front Mojave shocks. On the rear I run front 6s Kraton shocks. On both I have team associated yellow shocks, because stock are heavy, and axiel silicon bushings for the top mount.

I have found them to be extremely durable, easy to service and they change the cars handling for the better. Parts are usually available and they are not hard to service. Works for me.

 

[Avyn Nix]

I might go with the 6s shocks then but how are these?

Rear
https://jennysrc.com/collections/hy...mpers-87046s-86050-88097-1-87126-90056-ofna-1

Front
https://jennysrc.com/products/hobao...os=22&_sid=54fba704f&_ss=r&variant=8368405187
Other threads have suggested them.

 

[Velodromed]

I might go with the 6s shocks then but how are these?

Rear
https://jennysrc.com/collections/hy...mpers-87046s-86050-88097-1-87126-90056-ofna-1

Front
https://jennysrc.com/products/hobao...os=22&_sid=54fba704f&_ss=r&variant=8368405187
Other threads have suggested them.

They are too big for the 3s cars. Stock front shocks are 101mm and rear 115mm. Can get away going up to 108 front and 118ish rear (like the Mojave/Kraton shocks) but any more is too much. Since the 3s line doesn’t have droop screws they would extend the driveshafts to an angle that would damage them and increase wear. You’d have to shorten them…but I’m not sure how long the shock body’s are compared to stock. Don’t want to have an all body shock with short travel. Maybe someone else has tried them and will chime in.

 

[Avyn Nix]

Ok I now see that the length is way to long.

 

[Avyn Nix]

I just upgraded to the Arrma cnc metal ring and pinion in the back solves all problems and rips now, however I’m still breaking front outer driveshafts from big jumps/backflips what a good driveshaft upgrade?