Talion I don't know how to set my toe or droop.

[crimsonfancy]

Really don't know exactly what to look for yet either. Should I need a specific tool?
I know I've seen some posts here at the forum but didn't save as normal. I don't expect anyone to type it all over again and if you made a previous post and willing to linky, I appreciate any insight.
I can also provide photos but generally want to tighten up across the board with all trucks. I've ignored so far because I just bash but growing more and more concerned with details that I assume are an easy fix in quick time.
Thanks. Talion is a first concern and looking off because it's in the air more....and then Granite that's wobbly.
Just found out I'm of tomorrow so maybe tune ups.

 

[jondilly1974]

Really don't know exactly what to look for yet either. Should I need a specific tool?
I know I've seen some posts here at the forum but didn't save as normal. I don't expect anyone to type it all over again and if you made a previous post and willing to linky, I appreciate any insight.
I can also provide photos but generally want to tighten up across the board with all trucks. I've ignored so far because I just bash but growing more and more concerned with details that I assume are an easy fix in quick time.
Thanks. Talion is a first concern and looking off because it's in the air more....and then Granite that's wobbly.
Just found out I'm of tomorrow so maybe tune ups.

It all depends on how you want the rigs to run. If you are running on a track and want maximum turn in, then toe out will give you this. If you are speed running and want more understeer, go with toe in. If you just want neutral steering, make them as straight as possible.

For the Granite, the slop is usually from the balls in the links. They get worn over time. You can keep replacing the stock ones or buy the HR aluminum ones, hopefully once.

The steering rack also has some slop and can be replaced by the HR aluminum rack. I have this in my Typhon but not my Kraton. I think replacing the stock bushings for sealed bearings is a good middle ground here. Make sure the steering rack posts are tightened to the chassis. I’ve found these wiggle loose.

Final part is the axles. I’ve found a few of mine have excess slop in and out of the hub. I fixed this by adding a shin between the hub and the inner bearing. Just know that a small amount of movement is necessary here, but not more than a mm of travel in and out. If you find you have over a mm of travel, get some 12x18x0.5mm shims. If those end up to be too thick, you can get some 12x18x0.1mm shins and stack them as needed.

For the Talion, the usual suspects are the pillow balls. Obviously can’t tighten them all the way, but get them just snug enough as to not bind the hubs. Also check for your plastic spacers. They fall out commonly and you can replace them with small washers.

 

[Lazy Bushman]

For droop, just wind out the grub screw in the arm so you have to compress the shock just a little bit to reconnect it to the shock tower. I replaced my stock screws with teckno ones, just to give a little more surface area. From memory @Primarrma did a video on YouTube about setting droop. I can’t help with toe as I don’t bother with it, though I played around with it when I tried some GPM turnbuckles (FAIL)

 

[Notorious J]

Hey @crimsonfancy,
If you just sit the truck on a box so that the wheels are off the ground, take out the pins that hold the shocks in the arms, and let the rod end sit outside, shock at full extension. Adjust the droop screw so the hole of the rod end is sitting about 5mm lower than the hole in the arm where the pin goes in. You'll have to check every once and a while as the arms get older and start to bend or flex. Easy peasy

 

[Brandon]

A bit off topic but dang you folks get up very early in the AM. Good info here. Thanks for starting the topic.

 

[jondilly1974]

A bit off topic but dang you folks get up very early in the AM. Good info here. Thanks for starting the topic.

Sometimes it feels like I barely sleep at all. 6 hours a night is all I need. Used to sleep 8-10 hours and felt dead. Now I sleep 6 or less and sing zippity-doo-dah out my asshole. ?

 

[Yonic]

If you want to set the droop in a precise way, you can measure the center of the wheel hex, it should be level with the chassis, this is how arrma cars are setup from the factory (well, at least the Typhon and the Talion, this is what i have). you can setup the front to be few mm above the chassis if you want more steering.

The way i do it is set the chassis on a known height (in my case i use yoga blocks which are 75mm), then i set the droop until the bottom of the axle reaches 69mm (since the axle on the 6s cars is 12mm, so you need to add 6mm to get to the center of the axle).

Do it on all 4 corner and you have a truly precise droop.

I learnt it from this video

 

[crimsonfancy]

If you want to set the droop in a precise way, you can measure the center of the wheel hex, it should be level with the chassis, this is how arrma cars are setup from the factory (well, at least the Typhon and the Talion, this is what i have). you can setup the front to be few mm above the chassis if you want more steering.

The way i do it is set the chassis on a known height (in my case i use yoga blocks which are 75mm), then i set the droop until the bottom of the axle reaches 69mm (since the axle on the 6s cars is 12mm, so you need to add 6mm to get to the center of the axle).

Do it on all 4 corner and you have a truly precise droop.

I learnt it from this video

excellent! I also have yoga blocks and appreciate your help.

Hey @crimsonfancy,
If you just sit the truck on a box so that the wheels are off the ground, take out the pins that hold the shocks in the arms, and let the rod end sit outside, shock at full extension. Adjust the droop screw so the hole of the rod end is sitting about 5mm lower than the hole in the arm where the pin goes in. You'll have to check every once and a while as the arms get older and start to bend or flex. Easy peasy

I'm running a semi-broken front arm on the Talion and have been for a long time now. I have the upgrade parts and decided I better replace now to be set for cooler bashing weather. This and for others reference is why I posted. I want to replace the front arms and set all up just right and tight. Thanks for your help.

 

[crimsonfancy]

I'm looking at turnbuckle wrenches because I don't have a set of common open-end wrenches. Only tools I have that aren't used in kitchens are for RC.
I know they sent some stamped metal deals in my kits and I want to manage my steering better now... it's a new thing I'm wanting to maintain...so I want better tools.

I'm thinking this one will cover my 1:10 and 1:8 trucks?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UU07I6/

 

[Notorious J]

I'm looking at turnbuckle wrenches because I don't have a set of common open-end wrenches. Only tools I have that aren't used in kitchens are for RC.
I know they sent some stamped metal deals in my kits and I want to manage my steering better now... it's a new thing I'm wanting to maintain...so I want better tools.

I'm thinking this one will cover my 1:10 and 1:8 trucks?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UU07I6/

Love it! I hate the stamped ones, and couldn't find anything that small at any automotive or hardware store. Nice find Mark!

 

[Notorious J]

I'm looking at turnbuckle wrenches because I don't have a set of common open-end wrenches. Only tools I have that aren't used in kitchens are for RC.
I know they sent some stamped metal deals in my kits and I want to manage my steering better now... it's a new thing I'm wanting to maintain...so I want better tools.

I'm thinking this one will cover my 1:10 and 1:8 trucks?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UU07I6/

Got one Mark! ??

 

[crimsonfancy]

Got one Mark! ??

Hell, I better get one too. The other option was kinda slow boat and I'm over-thinking

 

[Notorious J]

Hell, I better get one too. The other option was kinda slow boat and I'm over-thinking

View attachment 49898

I didn't bat an eye. That little wrench is going to save a huge amount of time moving forward ?

 

[Yonic]

I'm thinking this one will cover my 1:10 and 1:8 trucks?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UU07I6/

This one looks super nice, but i'm afraid that it wont fit the rear turnbuckles of the 6s cars, which are 6mm.

the 6s steering links, and all the 3s turnbuckles are 5mm.

 

[Notorious J]

This one looks super nice, but i'm afraid that it wont fit the rear turnbuckles of the 6s cars, which are 6mm.

Are you sure?

 

[Yonic]

Are you sure?

Yep, both on my v3 Typhon and Talion. i don't think they changed that on the v4

 

[Notorious J]

Yep, both on my v3 Typhon and Talion. i don't think they changed that on the v4

To be honest, I never mess with the rear link. I'm constantly fidgeting with the front to fix toe as things get sloppy. I think the rear is more of a camber adjustment, so unless i was running street tire on my Noto, never thought to make any adjustments. Thanks for the heads up.?

 

[jondilly1974]

I found a set of small wrenches at Lowe’s

 

[Notorious J]

I found a set of small wrenches at Lowe’s

4mm and 5mm? Must be a 'Merican option.

 

[jondilly1974]

4mm and 5mm? Must be a 'Merican option.

It’s a set of 3mm to 7mm I believe. Too lazy to go out and look. But it came in a little clear pouch.