Fireteam I don't know how to shim a diff

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Anthony jaques

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Arrma RC's
  1. Fireteam
  2. Vendetta
I've shimmed everyway I can, it either is so tight it won't spin,I take out a shimm it's smooth and promptly strips and now my seiki shims are mushrooms! what am I missing here. I flipped shim over to show how bad it was. what the heck would cause this? The only thing that is different is the little rubber seal on the cup shaft, its a bit smaller than stock but it goes around it seats and seals the same. The 2nd pic is that

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And these are vitavon so they weren't exactly cheap
I've shimmed everyway I can, it either is so tight it won't spin,I take out a shimm it's smooth and promptly strips and now my seiki shims are mushrooms! what am I missing here. I flipped shim over to show how bad it was. what the heck would cause this? The only thing that is different is the little rubber seal on the cup shaft, its a bit smaller than stock but it goes around it seats and seals the same. The 2nd pic is that

View attachment 329625

View attachment 329629
 
Did you shim them while dry? Assemble, check for smooth rotation, then open back up and fill with fluid? If not I would start with that. It’s hard to get a good feel for tolerances with a diff full of fluid.
 
Did you shim them while dry? Assemble, check for smooth rotation, then open back up and fill with fluid? If not I would start with that. It’s hard to get a good feel for tolerances with a diff full of fluid.
Yea I started that way
I got one decent run on 4s 2 min on 6s and went out all 3 are like this
I havnt even run 2 packs
 
You’re missing a critical component
 
The gears are vivaton and so is the diff case?
Diff is arrma 31 mm updated aluminum no tombstones
Diff is arrma 31 mm updated aluminum no tombstones
Hot racing bevel and crown
Diff is arrma 31 mm updated aluminum no tombstones

Hot racing bevel and crown
One thing I should mention I placed the mugen shims only had one set and the aluminum diffs call for 2 on large spider or sun gear so I placed one arrma shim on top of it but I don't see how that would make a difference cause flat goes on flat although smaller round it should act no different than if I just used 2 stock
I always try to look for the sunshine in every situation and although this has me thoroughly upset I now have taken this thing apart enough times I now know where every single screw goes blah
 
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Strange. Looking at the wear on the diff case and the mushroom rims, my first guess is your diff have some upside/downside play. Look at the bearings, do the inner bearing rings have some play?
Edit: also have a look at the diff housing bearings, especially the small ones (input pinion bearing); those were designed to small IMO, and wear out too quickly.
 
Not that I can see they Re brand new too and for all 3 there has to be somthing in common that would be rather exceptional for all three to have that happen its got to be the washer or the use of mugen with arrma shims or Mr Tsang at vitavon had a bad batch of gears go through I'm waiting on his response I'm getting extra mugen shims so I can just use them didn't realize they would need 2 on each end with the aluminum maybe the smaller round shim on top of the larger mugen caused it idk honestly I don't even feel like I've got to hRdly play with this since I bought it new constantly one thing or another my corally doesn't do that I've got 3 times the run time on it and only thing that broke was a bumper from driving through a blind spot
And I take care of my rcs cleanups after runs regular diff and bearing maintenance
Yep time to step away from it so frustrated
I've got another fire team and a vendetta waiting to be built and I can't seem to get past this one.
 
Diff is arrma 31 mm updated aluminum no tombstones

Hot racing bevel and crown

One thing I should mention I placed the mugen shims only had one set and the aluminum diffs call for 2 on large spider or sun gear so I placed one arrma shim on top of it but I don't see how that would make a difference cause flat goes on flat although smaller round it should act no different than if I just used 2 stock
I always try to look for the sunshine in every situation and although this has me thoroughly upset I now have taken this thing apart enough times I now know where every single screw goes blah
If i remember rich duperbash video about shimming. Its one shim behing each big gear and 1 extra shim for 2 of the spider gear so 2 only have 1 by factory and 2 of them have 2. One factory and one mugen. But i did it with the plastic cup. In my case by factory the blx dif came with one undersized shim who goal was just to keep the oring in place
 
And I just watched hardcore rc the video as I did before building. It's the same way I built it
If i remember rich duperbash video about shimming. Its one shim behing each big gear and 1 extra shim for 2 of the spider gear so 2 only have 1 by factory and 2 of them have 2. One factory and one mugen. But i did it with the plastic cup
Yea that's what I did idk
 
Buuuuut I got good news after speaking for a while with Arthur at vitavon they have agreed not only to send a new set but they are going to build me 3 full diffs with housing everything really good guy fellas I highly recommend not because regardless of what happened vitavon is well known for quality but they have great customer service
If you remove the 2 shims from the spider gears does it spin smooth?
I rebuilt them 4 times in different ways 1 then 2 and even 3 but on three binding 2 felt great 0ne was too sloppy but no matter how I did it same result best it did was with 2 lasted 15min on light 4s usage but result inevitably was the same
Holy poop that's like 300 dollors worth of stuff for customer service fulfillment I originally spent 140 on the spiders thats noice
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boom
 
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One thing you must know, is no two differentials are the same. This isnt a matter of put 1 there, 2 here. This is something where you 1 there, close it up, test it. If there's play, add another. If not, move on. Most people MIGHT put a certain number that just happens to be common, but that in itself isn't common. And of course, its subject to change if as you use it(example: using composite diif cases and it expands from heat or wear on shims). I can see this being a huge factor in your problem if you follow a number and made it too tight
 
One thing you must know, is no two differentials are the same. This isnt a matter of put 1 there, 2 here. This is something where you 1 there, close it up, test it. If there's play, add another. If not, move on. Most people MIGHT put a certain number that just happens to be common, but that in itself isn't common. And of course, its subject to change if as you use it(example: using composite diif cases and it expands from heat or wear on shims). I can see this being a huge factor in your problem if you follow a number and made it too tight
I went from one to 2 and then 3. it was too tight at 3 just about right at 2 and 1 was sloppy, so on 2 it ran great for 15 min then it started clacking, dissasemble and find metal flakes in the oil. I rebuilt all 3 4 different times, the only thing that's off is the red washr, I used a slightly smaller washer that stretched over fine and sat in as the stock would, it ended the same way 4 times even now that there rounded a tad it's still the same 2 strips 3 won't move!
I went from one to 2 and then 3. it was too tight at 3 just about right at 2 and 1 was sloppy, so on 2 it ran great for 15 min then it started clacking, dissasemble and find metal flakes in the oil. I rebuilt all 3 4 different times, the only thing that's off is the red washr, I used a slightly smaller washer that stretched over fine and sat in as the stock would, it ended the same way 4 times even now that there rounded a tad it's still the same 2 strips 3 won't move!
I also tried variations as in, 2 on one side then 3 on other side ,ect
Apologies to the moderators I sometimes forget my language
 
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