Kraton I have got a screw loose

[KnowAir]

I've purchased many rtr vehicles from numerous different manufacturers every single one had out of the box issues from assembly be it stripped screws, missing parts, underfilled shocks, underfilled diffs, bodies mounted crooked the list goes on and on.

I bet they all still worked though?

 

[Tinmanranch]

I find that the major nuisance is with the Arrma 6s RTR Open Diffs. They are so needy. And wear out fast. Your mileage will vary.
So I always make sure they are filled out the gate. Leaving nothing to chance.
Even Tossing the OE soft Sat and Sun gear shims, and use only Mugen diff shims. EO206 I think is the Mugen part #
This one upgrade from the start makes all the difference IMHO.

My diffs last easily twice as long now. I will never touch my diff unless I have these on hand. These are way stronger, and keep the gears aligned better, and for longer. Made of Spring Steel.
Stock ones are horrible, cheap tin and don't last. They bend and groove out. Toss them from the start, before you ruin the diffs gearset. Causes misaligned and cracked chipped gears with hard bashing. I very highly recommend this. Many here use them. Been a thing for years now. Discussed many times here at AF.

https://www.amazon.com/MUGEN-SEIKI-Diff-Washer-Set/dp/B01IZM937K/ref=sr_1_2?crid=EOH0SNAS58K2&keywords=mugen+seiki+e0206+shims&qid=1688660897&sprefix=mugen+seiki+shim,aps,76&sr=8-2

Thank you for the advice

 

[SrC]

What satellite and sun gears brands do you suggest to use and do you have a part number?

Use the stock gearsets. No other brand gears will fit in these 6s diffs.
Break out the included manual or go to Arrma-Rc.com for the stock gears parts #'s, if/when you need them.
I have heard of a few obscure brands that make upgrade gears, possibly RCAWD makes them? Know nothing more. I just use the stockers.
The stocker gearsets are fine if you use the correct oils stated above, while using the Mugen Seiki Shims.
Remember that shimming the Main and Input gear is also very important. Trial and error for each diff determines how many needed. One or 2 shims will usually be needed for the front and rear diffs. They should have been included or already in place, and/or included in a separate bag in the box. Tekno TKR 1222 shims will also fit. How I buy them.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKNO-RC-LLC-13x16x-1mm-Shims/dp/B00F8OQ2NC/ref=sr_1_2?crid=17H4HBXN7MGPO&keywords=tekno+shims&qid=1688669685&sprefix=tekno+shims,aps,95&sr=8-2

 

[slick2500]

I bet they all still worked though?

Some would not have worked very long though.

 

[Tinmanranch]

Use the stock gearsets. No other brand gears will fit in these 6s diffs.
Break out the included manual or go to Arrma-Rc.com for the stock gears parts #'s, if/when you need them.
I have heard of a few obscure brands that make upgrade gears, possibly RCAWD makes them? Know nothing more. I just use the stockers.
The stocker gearsets are fine if you use the correct oils stated above, while using the Mugen Seiki Shims.
Remember that shimming the Main and Input gear is also very important. Trial and error for each diff determines how many needed. One or 2 shims will usually be needed for the front and rear diffs. They should have been included or already in place, and/or included in a separate bag in the box. Tekno TKR 1222 shims will also fit. How I buy them.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKNO-RC-LLC-13x16x-1mm-Shims/dp/B00F8OQ2NC/ref=sr_1_2?crid=17H4HBXN7MGPO&keywords=tekno+shims&qid=1688669685&sprefix=tekno+shims,aps,95&sr=8-2

SrC Thank you for the info. Appreciate your time got it on order.

 

[Tinmanranch]

Good that you caught this. Very common. I can give you a long list of common defects found with all NIB Arrma's...... But it would be much too long.
I could make a whole thread alone just on this topic.
I basically completely rebuild all of my 6s Arrma rigs before ever running it. Many plastic parts are absolutely stripped. The factory uses power tools to build these super fast. Cheap labor, Poor working conditions, etc. Not a wonder why.. Made in China....etc.
Diffs always low on oil, Pivot Balls crossthreaded. On and on. Steering Endpoints not correct......
I suggest while still now under the 2 year warranty, that you make a list with Part Numbers to send to HH for all the damaged and stripped plastic parts. What I do. HH knows about the poor QC they have. They don't care. It keeps their price point low and profits high. They rather Warranty the parts for you after purchase, to keep you happy.
And only if you notice ALL the defects in workmanship up front right away. I have never received one that was perfect. No such animal.
Do this Before you run it. Been there numerous times. I have 9 6s Arrma's here.
I broke my cherry with my first 6s OC. A mess. Caught me with my pants down, like so many others, with their very first Arrma. These are not really RTR, when you think about it.
These are great strong models if you do rebuild them properly, before you run them. You will learn how to wrench on them much faster by rebuilding it when new.
Otherwise it will be a cascading $disappointment$.

A good set of hand hex drivers is paramount. The included "L" hex wrenches are junk. Toss them.
I also use a hand power driver with the Torque clutch setting at lowest. To speed things up. Just be careful using it however. At Slow speed, and Final torquing is always done by hand.

Thank you for the advice it helps