Kraton I have got a screw loose

[Tinmanranch]

Have a question so I buy an Arrma kraton and I buy some hop up parts. I go to start taking it apart and I find loose screws a cracked part a couple of stripped screws. Is this normal so I take it every time you get a new car or truck you need to go through everything, I haven’t even started on the diffs yet so now I’m thinking I got to take this whole thing apart just to check it out. Is this normal? Should I expect to do this with every new vehicle?

 

[Johnny b]

Yes...its called quality control....there isn't any. All Ready to runs are ready to wrench. Mass production equals poor quality control. Pretty sure everyone on here has a few loose screws. Get some quality tools and learn your vehicle or it won't be an enjoyable hobby.

 

[Radiocontrolsoul]

Expect it. Embrace it. Cherish it. Bash it

 

[Tex Koder]

Unfortunately, that's the state of things now a days..
China CCP manufacturing is screwing with us..

 

[Robbbbbb66]

Unfortunately, that's the state of things now a days..
China CCP manufacturing is screwing with us..

That's screwed up!!!!

 

[Tinmanranch]

Yes...its called quality control....there isn't any. All Ready to runs are ready to wrench. Mass production equals poor quality control. Pretty sure everyone on here has a few loose screws. Get some quality tools and learn your vehicle or it won't be an enjoyable hobby.

Johnny, thanks for the advice appreciate it for what I’ve taken apart and put back together boost the confidence. Thank you.

Unfortunately, that's the state of things now a days..
China CCP manufacturing is screwing with us..

Isn’t that the truth?

 

[Johnny b]

Johnny, thanks for the advice appreciate it for what I’ve taken apart and put back together boost the confidence. Thank you.

Isn’t that the truth?

Your welcome. Wrenching on and repairing your own vehicle can be very rewarding. A lot of local hobby shops will repair for absorbent cost's so if your not mechanically inclined your going to pay for it. Not much to most of these rigs...keep digging in and having fun.

 

[SrC]

Have a question so I buy an Arrma kraton and I buy some hop up parts. I go to start taking it apart and I find loose screws a cracked part a couple of stripped screws. Is this normal so I take it every time you get a new car or truck you need to go through everything, I haven’t even started on the diffs yet so now I’m thinking I got to take this whole thing apart just to check it out. Is this normal? Should I expect to do this with every new vehicle?

Good that you caught this. Very common. I can give you a long list of common defects found with all NIB Arrma's...... But it would be much too long.
I could make a whole thread alone just on this topic.
I basically completely rebuild all of my 6s Arrma rigs before ever running it. Many plastic parts are absolutely stripped. The factory uses power tools to build these super fast. Cheap labor, Poor working conditions, etc. Not a wonder why.. Made in China....etc.
Diffs always low on oil, Pivot Balls crossthreaded. On and on. Steering Endpoints not correct......
I suggest while still now under the 2 year warranty, that you make a list with Part Numbers to send to HH for all the damaged and stripped plastic parts. What I do. HH knows about the poor QC they have. They don't care. It keeps their price point low and profits high. They rather Warranty the parts for you after purchase, to keep you happy.
And only if you notice ALL the defects in workmanship up front right away. I have never received one that was perfect. No such animal.
Do this Before you run it. Been there numerous times. I have 9 6s Arrma's here.
I broke my cherry with my first 6s OC. A mess. Caught me with my pants down, like so many others, with their very first Arrma. These are not really RTR, when you think about it.
These are great strong models if you do rebuild them properly, before you run them. You will learn how to wrench on them much faster by rebuilding it when new.
Otherwise it will be a cascading $disappointment$.

A good set of hand hex drivers is paramount. The included "L" hex wrenches are junk. Toss them.
I also use a hand power driver with the Torque clutch setting at lowest. To speed things up. Just be careful using it however. At Slow speed, and Final torquing is always done by hand.

 

[KnowAir]

I concur, quality control is more like "out of control".. most here will strip them right down and put em back together. I give them a good once over and send it.. any "real" problems typically manifest themselves pretty quickly I find. Low diff fluid? not likely gonna cause an issue, hasn't for me. I've run my rtr Arrma's for over a year without even touching/looking at a diff.. then, while apart for something else..huh, look at that, empty diffs?

 

[kspitters]

“I’ve got a screw loose”
Most of us got more than one screw loose here

 

[KnowAir]

“I’ve got a screw loose”
Most of us got more than one screw loose here

Speak for urself buddy, mines are ALL loose/stripped..or just plain missing!

 

[Tinmanranch]

Good that you caught this. Very common. I can give you a long list of common defects found with all NIB Arrma's...... But it would be much too long.
I could make a whole thread alone just on this topic.
I basically completely rebuild all of my 6s Arrma rigs before ever running it. Many plastic parts are absolutely stripped. The factory uses power tools to build these super fast. Cheap labor, Poor working conditions, etc. Not a wonder why.. Made in China....etc.
Diffs always low on oil, Pivot Balls crossthreaded. On and on. Steering Endpoints not correct......
I suggest while still now under the 2 year warranty, that you make a list with Part Numbers to send to HH for all the damaged and stripped plastic parts. What I do. HH knows about the poor QC they have. They don't care. It keeps their price point low and profits high. They rather Warranty the parts for you after purchase, to keep you happy.
And only if you notice ALL the defects in workmanship up front right away. I have never received one that was perfect. No such animal.
Do this Before you run it. Been there numerous times. I have 9 6s Arrma's here.
I broke my cherry with my first 6s OC. A mess. Caught me with my pants down, like so many others, with their very first Arrma. These are not really RTR, when you think about it.
These are great strong models if you do rebuild them properly, before you run them. You will learn how to wrench on them much faster by rebuilding it when new.
Otherwise it will be a cascading $disappointment$.

A good set of hand hex drivers is paramount. The included "L" hex wrenches are junk. Toss them.
I also use a hand power driver with the Torque clutch setting at lowest. To speed things up. Just be careful using it however. At Slow speed, and Final torquing is always done by hand.

Thank you I have not run the car all I think the replacing broken parts even before you run it and they’re broken you should replace with upgraded just my feeling thank you for the guidance. I was a little afraid at first but it’s rewarding replacing broken stuff and learning the car. Thank you for the encouragement.

“I’ve got a screw loose”
Most of us got more than one screw loose here

That is definitely true and put new parts on. Take it out and launch it break something else and do it again and again it’s gonna be fun. Thank you.

 

[SrC]

I concur, quality control is more like "out of control".. most here will strip them right down and put em back together. I give them a good once over and send it.. any "real" problems typically manifest themselves pretty quickly I find. Low diff fluid? not likely gonna cause an issue, hasn't for me. I've run my rtr Arrma's for over a year without even touching/looking at a diff.. then, while apart for something else..huh, look at that, empty diffs?

I find that the major nuisance is with the Arrma 6s RTR Open Diffs. They are so needy. And wear out fast. Your mileage will vary.
So I always make sure they are filled out the gate. Leaving nothing to chance.
Even Tossing the OE soft Sat and Sun gear shims, and use only Mugen diff shims. EO206 I think is the Mugen part #
This one upgrade from the start makes all the difference IMHO.

My diffs last easily twice as long now. I will never touch my diff unless I have these on hand. These are way stronger, and keep the gears aligned better, and for longer. Made of Spring Steel.
Stock ones are horrible, cheap tin and don't last. They bend and groove out. Toss them from the start, before you ruin the diffs gearset. Causes misaligned and cracked chipped gears with hard bashing. I very highly recommend this. Many here use them. Been a thing for years now. Discussed many times here at AF.

https://www.amazon.com/MUGEN-SEIKI-Diff-Washer-Set/dp/B01IZM937K/ref=sr_1_2?crid=EOH0SNAS58K2&keywords=mugen+seiki+e0206+shims&qid=1688660897&sprefix=mugen+seiki+shim,aps,76&sr=8-2

 

[Tinmanranch]

Well, thanks for the advice. I’ve already tearing it down. I might as well just go a little deeper and help things last twice as long sounds like great advice. Thank you.

 

[hobo]

Good that you caught this. Very common. I can give you a long list of common defects found with all NIB Arrma's...... But it would be much too long.
I could make a whole thread alone just on this topic.
I basically completely rebuild all of my 6s Arrma rigs before ever running it. Many plastic parts are absolutely stripped. The factory uses power tools to build these super fast. Cheap labor, Poor working conditions, etc. Not a wonder why.. Made in China....etc.
Diffs always low on oil, Pivot Balls crossthreaded. On and on. Steering Endpoints not correct......
I suggest while still now under the 2 year warranty, that you make a list with Part Numbers to send to HH for all the damaged and stripped plastic parts. What I do. HH knows about the poor QC they have. They don't care. It keeps their price point low and profits high. They rather Warranty the parts for you after purchase, to keep you happy.
And only if you notice ALL the defects in workmanship up front right away. I have never received one that was perfect. No such animal.
Do this Before you run it. Been there numerous times. I have 9 6s Arrma's here.
I broke my cherry with my first 6s OC. A mess. Caught me with my pants down, like so many others, with their very first Arrma. These are not really RTR, when you think about it.
These are great strong models if you do rebuild them properly, before you run them. You will learn how to wrench on them much faster by rebuilding it when new.
Otherwise it will be a cascading $disappointment$.

A good set of hand hex drivers is paramount. The included "L" hex wrenches are junk. Toss them.
I also use a hand power driver with the Torque clutch setting at lowest. To speed things up. Just be careful using it however. At Slow speed, and Final torquing is always done by hand.

bloody hell you will put him of the hobby for life

 

[SrC]

I am a kit builder at heart. My preference.
I know it can be daunting for many to rebuild a RTR completely. The Arrma RTR manuals are not really the best for helping with full rebuilds. Basically learn as you wrench.
I take my time, sometimes a full week on the bench before I have blessed it with my 2 hands before running it.
Many just want to drive it quick, as it is, out the box. Because it is "Supposedly" Ready to Run.
I get it.... Just that is where many fail.
Most any RTR brand is this way. Not just with Arrma.

 

[Tinmanranch]

I find that the major nuisance is with the Arrma 6s RTR Open Diffs. They are so needy. And wear out fast. Your mileage will vary.
So I always make sure they are filled out the gate. Leaving nothing to chance.
Even Tossing the OE soft Sat and Sun gear shims, and use only Mugen diff shims. EO206 I think is the Mugen part #
This one upgrade from the start makes all the difference IMHO.

My diffs last easily twice as long now. I will never touch my diff unless I have these on hand. These are way stronger, and keep the gears aligned better, and for longer. Made of Spring Steel.
Stock ones are horrible, cheap tin and don't last. They bend and groove out. Toss them from the start, before you ruin the diffs gearset. Causes misaligned and cracked chipped gears with hard bashing. I very highly recommend this. Many here use them. Been a thing for years now. Discussed many times here at AF.

https://www.amazon.com/MUGEN-SEIKI-Diff-Washer-Set/dp/B01IZM937K/ref=sr_1_2?crid=EOH0SNAS58K2&keywords=mugen+seiki+e0206+shims&qid=1688660897&sprefix=mugen+seiki+shim,aps,76&sr=8-2

What satellite and sun gears brands do you suggest to use and do you have a part number?

 

[KnowAir]

I find that the major nuisance is with the Arrma 6s RTR Open Diffs. They are so needy. And wear out fast. Your mileage will vary.
So I always make sure they are filled out the gate. Leaving nothing to chance.
Even Tossing the OE soft Sat and Sun gear shims, and use only Mugen diff shims. EO206 I think is the Mugen part #
This one upgrade from the start makes all the difference IMHO.

My diffs last easily twice as long now. I will never touch my diff unless I have these on hand. These are way stronger, and keep the gears aligned better, and for longer. Made of Spring Steel.
Stock ones are horrible, cheap tin and don't last. They bend and groove out. Toss them from the start, before you ruin the diffs gearset. Causes misaligned and cracked chipped gears with hard bashing. I very highly recommend this. Many here use them. Been a thing for years now. Discussed many times here at AF.

https://www.amazon.com/MUGEN-SEIKI-Diff-Washer-Set/dp/B01IZM937K/ref=sr_1_2?crid=EOH0SNAS58K2&keywords=mugen+seiki+e0206+shims&qid=1688660897&sprefix=mugen+seiki+shim,aps,76&sr=8-2

Good to know. I'll try and order some "before" my next tear diff teardown.

 

[SrC]

One pack will do all 3 diffs.
They used to be as high as $17.00/ pack. Price been dropped. I never had to replace them due to wear. The Arrma OE shims, are crap after only 4 packs. I have like 30 diffs across all my 6s rigs here. With several Back up diffs at the ready.
M2C Input and Output cups make it even better.

>>Always put some grease on these cups' shafts before inserting them. Not much needed. High Pressure grease works best. There's much friction in this diff area, otherwise. The cup shafts wear out faster if dry, when diffing out. This also causes misalingened and worn Sungears much sooner.
How Tekno assembles their diffs . I follow suit. There is a groove/cavity on the shaft, this is where you concentrate the grease.
Most install them with the shafts dry. NG.
A few more tips.

 

[slick2500]

I am a kit builder at heart. My preference.
I know it can be daunting for many to rebuild a RTR completely. The Arrma RTR manuals are not really the best for helping with full rebuilds. Basically learn as you wrench.
I take my time, sometimes a full week on the bench before I have blessed it with my 2 hands before running it.
Many just want to drive it quick, as it is, out the box. Because it is "Supposedly" Ready to Run.
I get it.... Just that is where many fail.
Most any RTR brand is this way. Not just with Arrma.

I've purchased many rtr vehicles from numerous different manufacturers every single one had out of the box issues from assembly be it stripped screws, missing parts, underfilled shocks, underfilled diffs, bodies mounted crooked the list goes on and on.