Big Rock I'm learning a lot and one important thing is that not all aftermarket parts work well on these rigs.

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Looks great! And you’re right about aftermarket parts. Some of the aluminum suspension parts out there are absolute garbage.
Yeah definitely, well at least the parts I purchased from RCAWD. A guy from the shop in Peoria IL said Arrma only likes Hot Racing aftermarket parts. Anyone else agree w/that?
 
Yeah definitely, well at least the parts I purchased from RCAWD. A guy from the shop in Peoria IL said Arrma only likes Hot Racing aftermarket parts. Anyone else agree w/that?

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I just noticed your in Peoria. About 2hrs from me. If it weren't getting cold and nasty soon I'd say we could meet up in Springfield for a bash n greet 🤪
 
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Yeah definitely, well at least the parts I purchased from RCAWD. A guy from the shop in Peoria IL said Arrma only likes Hot Racing aftermarket parts. Anyone else agree w/that?

No, that’s not true at all.
 
I nailed a curb at an / angle topped out (so 50ish) a week or 2 ago with 1 front tire. I thought for sure it was gonna be shattered. NOTTA 🤣
I think I've gotten overly lucky more then a few times. If it would of been an aluminum arm that story would of for sure ended differently. She flexed and bounced off.
Yup this is exactly why you want plastic a arms, they flex and give before something harder to replace gets broken. It takes no time at all to change an arm a chassis or bulkhead can take a few hours depending on how meticulous you are, me it would take an entire day as I would also service and/or replace other parts while I am in there.
No, that’s not true at all.
Yeah, the trucks don't care what brand the stuff is. RCAWD is just notorious for making crap bling products.
 
Yup this is exactly why you want plastic a arms, they flex and give before something harder to replace gets broken. It takes no time at all to change an arm a chassis or bulkhead can take a few hours depending on how meticulous you are, me it would take an entire day as I would also service and/or replace other parts while I am in there.

Yeah, the trucks don't care what brand the stuff is. RCAWD is just notorious for making crap bling products.
I agree, RCAWD looks good but I don't believe the parts are right on spec. Not for my Big Rock anyway.
 
I agree, RCAWD looks good but I don't believe the parts are right on spec. Not for my Big Rock anyway.
I've had better luck with Integy and GPM to be honest.
 
No, that’s not true at all.
+1
Arrma likes Arrma parts.... EXB upgrade stuff etc.
Think about that for a second and it makes more sense. Why would Arrma advocate any other brand? They depend on making most of their bottom line from selling their own parts to maintain these rigs. And Not all of the HR stuff is made well. Mixed bag with QC IMHO. Been there. But HR appears to be up there. Just Not quite M2C QC etc.
 
+1
Arrma likes Arrma parts.... EXB upgrade stuff etc.
Think about that for a second and it makes more sense. Why would Arrma advocate any other brand? They depend on making most of their bottom line from selling their own parts to maintain these rigs. And Not all of the HR stuff is made well. Mixed bag with QC IMHO. Been there. But HR appears to be up there. Just Not quite M2C QC etc.

Does not designing the 29mm diff cups properly count as QC or design flaw? Hot Racing seems to have fairly decent QC most of their faults lie in the designs or quality of materials used from my own experience and watching people constantly buy and break their driveshafts.
 
+!
Alloy arms will take out a composite 4x4 chassis if you are hard bashing this thing.
At least it will look nice when it does.;)
That makes sense, when you upgrade to alloy it changes the energy absorption. I mean metal cv's
I nailed a curb at an / angle topped out (so 50ish) a week or 2 ago with 1 front tire. I thought for sure it was gonna be shattered. NOTTA 🤣
I think I've gotten overly lucky more then a few times. If it would of been an aluminum arm that story would of for sure ended differently. She flexed and bounced off.
The aluminum suspension parts look good but when it comes to truly bashing they will end up breaking chassis alot of times. Energy absorbtion changes. These rigs can take a heck of a beating out of the box. Also with RCAWD cv's, knuckles and control arms there was so much slop I had to check part no'. s to make sure I ordered the right ones. I do wonder if they were in fact made for the Big Rock v1 none the less I agree w/DanB that there's alot of garbage parts out there. Arrma rigs love Arrma parts, that's my 2¢ Again, I had a shop owner tell me a lot of guys running Arrma use only Hot Racing parts. I've tore my Big Rock up a couple of times and from experience my control arms and shafts are the best when it comes to taking a beating. I hope everyone on here has a great holiday season.
 
Remember that Arrma's are Basher rig products. They only have close "enough" tolerance for what they are designed for at their pricepoint. These are far from precision Brand Kit Track rigs. Just Made in China products in the end. So don't expect even the OE parts out the box to be precision stuff. And if looking to Spending lots of $coin$ to remove slop in many 'areas, don't be fooled into thinking any or all Upgrade Brand parts will do the job. Being the answer. Most upgrade brands just try to emulate the fit and finish of the OE parts at best. While offering all the anodized bling colors. And sometimes the fit is a fail. Nothing more most of the time. Sometimes getting better 7075 grade alloys can be a plus. Like with some $M2C$ and $Vitavon$ Drivetrain parts/hubs etc. for better WEAR durability. Even HR is not all that, if looking to more precision tolerances much of the time. HotRacing is just a more household mainstream brand with RC's, a big company that dominates the market. For a LHS to say they are the best is just a lie. It's just a household common RC brand that they will throw out there.
Most of the time, Upgrade alloys are just $Bling$ with bragging rights, looking great in Pictures and on your Shelf.
So Pick your poison accordingly. We all do this differently in the end.
When you break that first part in your brand new rig, 99% of the time many feel they need to upgrade to alloy, so don't think Upgrade immediately. (n)
Follow and listen to what others upgrade and do to mod their rigs more practically. Its all too easy to drop $500.00 + in alloys etc. Then you have a Heavy paper weight for a rig that will break even more easily. Many alloys just transfer force to other more expensive and weaker plastic parts. So it can easily become a frenzy to keep adding alloy upgrades, one after another. Until your wallet starts to cry. Sometimes it's best to allow the weaker plastic parts to break, then just replace with OE again.
I would rather have 2 rigs with less $alloys$ then that One rig that costs as much as 2. And Rarely do you get your money back if you go to sell an alloy slammed rig.
There's always those few Alloy upgrades that are always important based on the rig in hand. Like alloy Chassis braces on the 6s line, for example. But most of the OE plastic parts are fine to replace with. Then as you learn the rig better and know how to drive it better you will break less and less.
>>>A lighter chassis/rig is always best. Less wear, damage and cost in the long run.
JennysRC.com is one great place to shop for the OE parts and assemblies.. EXB upgrade parts as well. There are other kit breakers as well. Ebay etc.
Sometimes more practical to simply buy some Retail OE parts from Amain and HH.
When it comes to bashing our RCs, most of the flexible plastics can serve best. It's all too easy to add pounds of $alloy$ to a chassis if you are not careful. (n)
Lean and mean is best for most any RC platform. For Speed, handling and performance. Depending on the part, CF is a great alloy alternative sometimes.
Sorry for the long post.:cool:
 
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@Mark Rhoades Please post some decent photos and not the overexposured!
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