Kraton Is this a good way to truly prevent against rust???

[Surchaufeur]

I just came across this what do you guys think? I think it might be useless to use on pins, or anything that is bare metal.

 

[Jerold]

It looked like the blade was blued which inhibits rust. Not sure why he did that?

I've used vinegar and an ultrasonic cleaner to remove rust, but I don't "think" it inhibits rust? I certainly wouldn't use it on bearing or critical surfaces

The best way to keep things moving smoothly is to keep them lubricated. A very thin coat of oil on parts goes a long ways. Also WD40 is made for this. The WD means Water Displacement. It's not a replacement for proper maintenance, but it helps clean out the water.

I've also been meaning to try FogLube on my gears. It's target market is firearms (pun intended) and it's baked into the material, which means it can't fly off like liquids. Lubing your gears when they are turning 20,000 RPM isn't very effective.

Realistically if you are not taking your car swimming, any surface rust in mating surfaces will be gone once you run it.

IMHO the key is to keep the clean and lubricated.

 

[Surchaufeur]

It looked like the blade was blued which inhibits rust. Not sure why he did that?

I've used vinegar and an ultrasonic cleaner to remove rust, but I don't "think" it inhibits rust? I certainly wouldn't use it on bearing or critical surfaces

The best way to keep things moving smoothly is to keep them lubricated. A very thin coat of oil on parts goes a long ways. Also WD40 is made for this. The WD means Water Displacement. It's not a replacement for proper maintenance, but it helps clean out the water.

I've also been meaning to try FogLube on my gears. It's target market is firearms (pun intended) and it's baked into the material, which means it can't fly off like liquids. Lubing your gears when they are turning 20,000 RPM isn't very effective.

Realistically if you are not taking your car swimming, any surface rust in mating surfaces will be gone once you run it.

IMHO the key is to keep the clean and lubricated.

Was asking because i don't run on water. The only time i did is wheni changed all the bearings on one of my trucks to stainless and already half of them have failed or went very bad. I tried torun my mojave on regreased bearings and the ones on my rear diff output bearings the inner race wasnt turning. At that point i decided im not going to run any of my rcs on snow ever. I cant dry eveything. The hard to reach screws and things you cant reach like hinge pins will all rust out unless you blast the whole vehicle with petroleum lubricant. Gears will also rust no matter what. Droplets of water will remain on some of the teeth. I ran on slightly wet conditions last year with my kraton exb and 4s everything on the rear started to severely rust out. I thought it was already dry from running on dry for a while. Was wrong.

 

[BudUMfan]

I completely understand. It’s never stopped me. Eventually it gets lubed. But never had any problems. I personally love the snow. PIA to dry? Yes. But easier than the dirty Typhon full of mud!

 

[Surchaufeur]

I completely understand. It’s never stopped me. Eventually it gets lubed. But never had any problems. I personally love the snow. PIA to dry? Yes. But easier than the dirty Typhon full of mud!

View attachment 342880

View attachment 342881

View attachment 342882

View attachment 342883

True but i have some form of OCD. If i see something not right it stresses me out and i end up tearing everything up for that one thing. The best rruck to use in the snow would be my Neros because of the insane ground clearence they have but they are also a very valuable vehicle. Eitherway my notorious was my snow truck for 2 years. I need to change the esc and the body was almost gkne on year 1 because the lexan is thick and reinforcements does nothing to it. While my exb kraton was going strong on its 4th year before it was junked by accident.

Last year i had funky brakes and when i was cold enough i would lose my brakes all togueter and have trouble engaging reverse. Also the cap pack ripped again a few months ago on its last run. Also acted up a bit on the first winter so HH also sent me a free replacement. Car always felt underpowered Even with the same gearing as my kraton. I don't want to put another firma v1 esc in it because they just suck. Also need proline dumonts if i want to do anything serious. I printed paddle tires with TPU and Petg but they are the size of backflip lps with 1/2 more offset

 

[Jerold]

There area few threads on cleaning RC. WD40 and compressed air seem to be some favorites. But you're absolutely right it's dang near impossible to get all of the water out unless you tear it down.

 

[GeorgeG]

CorrosionX

safe on electronics also. Kinda pricey but sooo worth it, epecially on expensive electronics that would be pricey to replace. I cover my rx, take servo apart and cover the circuit board. I do this to all my vehicles. No issues at all. It’s good stuff.

Check it out!

 

[Saladshooter]

CorrosionX

safe on electronics also. Kinda pricey but sooo worth it, epecially on expensive electronics that would be pricey to replace. I cover my rx, take servo apart and cover the circuit board. I do this to all my vehicles. No issues at all. It’s good stuff.

Check it out!

Ha.... just ordered this today. I play in the snow all the time so I figured it would help keep things in working order.

 

[GeorgeG]

Ha.... just ordered this today. I play in the snow all the time so I figured it would help keep things in working order.

Yup. Its good stuff!

 

[sumguy75]

I don't care for bashing in snow but I run my Stampede in wet conditions all the time. I use an air duster when I get home to blow most of the water off of it. After that I park it under a shelf with a cheap Black & Decker heater/fan blowing hot dry air on it.

I run it about an hour and the whole rig is a toasty 120-125 degrees. Drop of oil on the bearings and its ready for another round. The bearings in the gearbox end up needing replacement sooner than normal but everything else is fine.

As far as 4wd bashers, I stopped running them in wet conditions, not worth the hassle. haven't run a 6s pack in over 2 months now, probably be March or April when I do.

 

[BudUMfan]

CorrosionX

safe on electronics also. Kinda pricey but sooo worth it, epecially on expensive electronics that would be pricey to replace. I cover my rx, take servo apart and cover the circuit board. I do this to all my vehicles. No issues at all. It’s good stuff.

Check it out!

This is exactly what I use and it’s awesome

 

[Garcbomber]

Cleans, lubes, and shines everything.

 

[blaster27]

It looked like the blade was blued which inhibits rust. Not sure why he did that?

I've used vinegar and an ultrasonic cleaner to remove rust, but I don't "think" it inhibits rust? I certainly wouldn't use it on bearing or critical surfaces

The best way to keep things moving smoothly is to keep them lubricated. A very thin coat of oil on parts goes a long ways. Also WD40 is made for this. The WD means Water Displacement. It's not a replacement for proper maintenance, but it helps clean out the water.

I've also been meaning to try FogLube on my gears. It's target market is firearms (pun intended) and it's baked into the material, which means it can't fly off like liquids. Lubing your gears when they are turning 20,000 RPM isn't very effective.

Realistically if you are not taking your car swimming, any surface rust in mating surfaces will be gone once you run it.

IMHO the key is to keep the clean and lubricated

When I run my rig in the snow, I take it in and blow dry it hard core. I remove the tires, body . Dry it off with a cloth. I use medical wipes . I blow it off again. Then I wipe it down more with the pink stuff. Wipe it clean then, lube the bearings with rust resist. I give it a wipe and, Badda bing, Badda boom. Done.

 

[blaster27]

I try not to run my rigs in the snow or water. But you never know.

 

[Surchaufeur]

View attachment 342976

Cleans, lubes, and shines everything.

And attract dirt on everything. I have this and i berely use it, it also kills bearings if the bearings are dirty on the outside it loosens the dirt and makes it go inside the bearing and when you spin the wheels it makes loud crunching sounds and after a few runs the bearings are killed or very bumpy. The only time i ever use this product is when i tear down the vehicle and the bearings to clean them

 

[Garcbomber]

And attract dirt on everything. I have this and i berely use it, it also kills bearings if the bearings are dirty on the outside it loosens the dirt and makes it go inside the bearing and when you spin the wheels it makes loud crunching sounds and after a few runs the bearings are killed or very bumpy. The only time i ever use this product is when i tear down the vehicle and the bearings to clean them

Might want to understand silicone a little better, and get a refund for your “sealed” bearings

 

[nomis38]

I mean the only thing to really rust on an RC is the screws. Just throw it away and grab one of the thousands that are laying in your tool box and replace it. Most of an RC is plastic and aluminum.

People IRL don't give a crap about rust, only people that see it in pictures on a forum complain lolol. You all know who you are

Also bearings are cheap, toss it and drop in a new one!!

Life hack.... Replace it with brand new....

 

[Surchaufeur]

I mean the only thing to really rust on an RC is the screws. Just throw it away and grab one of the thousands that are laying in your tool box and replace it. Most of an RC is plastic and aluminum.

People IRL don't give a crap about rust, only people that see it in pictures on a forum complain lolol. You all know who you are

Also bearings are cheap, toss it and drop in a new one!!

Life hack.... Replace it with brand new....

Theres specific screws that arrma uses like the wing mount screws, steering posts. Steering bushing pivots, hidden screws ect ect

 

[nomis38]

Theres specific screws that arrma uses like the wing mount screws, steering posts. Steering bushing pivots, hidden screws ect ect

Not had a steering rack post rustout on a single vehicle, bushing are brass pivots are stainless, hidden screws are still just screws to replace. Nothing is hidden when you rip down RC's for maintenance. Replace as needed still stands as a wonderful solution. And its cheap if you have to buy but, most of us have so much crap its free sitting in our box waiting to be used.

 

[SrC]

It looked like the blade was blued which inhibits rust. Not sure why he did that?

I've used vinegar and an ultrasonic cleaner to remove rust, but I don't "think" it inhibits rust? I certainly wouldn't use it on bearing or critical surfaces

The best way to keep things moving smoothly is to keep them lubricated. A very thin coat of oil on parts goes a long ways. Also WD40 is made for this. The WD means Water Displacement. It's not a replacement for proper maintenance, but it helps clean out the water.

I've also been meaning to try FogLube on my gears. It's target market is firearms (pun intended) and it's baked into the material, which means it can't fly off like liquids. Lubing your gears when they are turning 20,000 RPM isn't very effective.

Realistically if you are not taking your car swimming, any surface rust in mating surfaces will be gone once you run it.

IMHO the key is to keep the clean and lubricated.

+1
Plain WD40 is a Water Displacer like you stated, But it is no more a lubricant than water is. It is primarily a Solvent, And if not cleaned off well enough, after using it on rotating parts like BB's will ruin them sure. WD40 gums up eventually, while also breaking down lubricants. Fact. Lube should follow. Chromium BB's simply rust no matter what.. I pack my BB's with a grease. extends their life. But they still are consumable parts no matter how you slice it. Only use An automotive grease on the diff gears. Red and Tacky is thick and most tenacious and remains for longer. Use oil on the Motor BB's.