Jym73 Arrma garage

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Kraton 6s
  3. Notorious
I open this thread to talk about all my Arrma cars.

Big Rock Crew cab

Unboxing :

Speed test + bashing :

First test of new ramp :

Upgrades :

- T-bone front bumper : https://tboneracing.net/collections/bigrock-3s/products/10095-tbr-xv6-front-bumper-arrma-big-rock-3s
- GPM Racing front hub carrier : https://www.gpmracing.com.hk/en/pro...10-4WD-GRANITE-4X4-MEGA-MOSTER-TRUCK-AR102680
- Gpm Racing cvd (on front) : https://www.gpmracing.com.hk/en/pro...-10-4WD-BIG-ROCK-CREW-CAB-4X4-3S-BLX-AR102711
- Arrma Granite Wheels : https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR550045
- Cheap 25Kg steering servo.

The GPM racing drive shaft are quite hard to put in place, mainly the differential outdrive which is a very very very thigh fit. This is how i did :
- I removed the C-hub from the a-arm by removing the C-hub pin.
- I removed the front shock absorber to have enough room for working.
- I removed the stock CVD.
- I put the GPM "drive cup" on the differenital axle, just in front of the axle, by turning it we can feel the "spline shaft" are aligned.
- I took a 10mm with normal head screw, for 2.5mm hex driver. The screws provided by GPM are too short at this step.
- I put the screw in the hole in the gpm "drive cup" and hold the drive cup with a 1.5mm hex screw driver in the hole for the pin for avoiding the drive cup and diff. axle to turn..
- Then i screw the screw.
- I checked if the "drive cup" was well aligned by turning the opposite wheel, if it wasn't aligned, i hammered the drive cup a little bit to align it.
- I contiuned to screw, it will be hard to tight, i screwed it as far as i could do, this push the drive cup in place.
- When it was too hard to screw, i changed the screw for a 8mm one and repeat the same step above.

As i show at the end of the video the main damages are : a velcro strap broken and the plastic center axle shredded by a small pebble. It isn't that much when we see the bad landing it took. The surface is aslphat covered by dust, sand and gravel. After a closer look i also broke the small bar which held the front aluminum a-arm's hinge pin brace on the T-bone front bumper.

The car isn't so easy to handle on this kind of loose surface. When you hit the throttle too fast the rear end tend to drift on the side quickly. But the handling is better with wider tires. The motor/esc tend to cog sometime. The reverse doesn't respond quickly sometime also. There is still the problem of gravel/pebble which tend to bind the steering quite often. Two shock absorbers leak like crazy. But overall the car is fun to use and seems pretty solid with the upgrade.

Front a-arms aluminum brace mod :

As i have broken the small plastic part which is on the T-bone front bumper, the one which hold the aluminum a-arms brace, i have lost the front aluminum a-arms brace. So i decided to do a quick modification to avoid to lost it again.
BRCC - Front a-arms brace mod 1.jpg

I did two holes with a 2.5mm drill tip. I threaded the holes with a M3 tap thread.

BRCC - Front a-arms brace mod 2.jpg

Arrma Kraton 6s BLX V2

Unboxing :

I know it isn't new, even old now, but it is my Kraton V2 and i love it ^^.

Speed test + bashing :

New bashing spot :

Upgrades :

So far not that much.
- Rear Voltage aluminum chassis brace : https://www.voltagehobbies.com/store/p28/Voltage_Hobbies_Rear_Chassis_Brace_for_ARRMA_Kraton,_Talion.html#/
- GPM aluminum servo mount : https://www.gpmracing.com.hk/en/pro...NSTER-TRUCK--ARA106040T1#sthash.8Co556Zl.dpbs
- GPM front skid plate : https://www.gpmracing.com.hk/en/pro...NSTER-TRUCK--ARA106040T1#sthash.iPN5ugPi.dpbs
- RPM rear skid plate : https://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/...or-arrma-durango-8th-and-10th-scale-vehicles/
- Markhor carbon fiber upper deck : https://www.ampedrc.com.au/product/markhor-rc-kraton-and-talion-carbon-fibre-top-deck/

Notorious 6s BLX 2019

First bash on 6s :

Upgrades :

- Front RPM bumper : https://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/...kid-plate-for-the-arrma-kraton-durango-dex8t/
- GPM rear skid plate : https://www.gpmracing.com.hk/en/pro...NSTER-TRUCK--ARA106040T1#sthash.WLG3uhVE.dpbs
- GPM steering servo mount : https://www.gpmracing.com.hk/en/pro...NSTER-TRUCK--ARA106040T1#sthash.8Co556Zl.dpbs
- Hot racing front chassis brace : https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=AON28C01;c=1058
- Hot racing rear chassis brace : https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=AON30X01;c=1058
- Banggood aluminum wheel nuts : https://fr.banggood.com/4PCS-17mm-Dust-Resistant-CNC-Nut-for-18-RC-Car-AGAMA-XRAY-LOSI-HB-AE-MUGEN-TEAM-C-HSP-ZD-p-1575655.html
- Tactic TTX300
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Kraton EXB

Arrma - Kraton EXB - main .jpg

Set up :

Arrma - Kraton EXB - set up 1 .jpg

Arrma - Kraton EXB - MMM skid plate 1  .jpg

- ESC/motor : Hobbywing Max8 + 4274 2200Kv motor (i planed to put the electronic from the Kronos but finally no)
- Servo : Eco boost CKS6336HV 35Kg (from aliexpress)
- Kraton/Notorious wheelie bar AR320366
- M2C 3035 shock tower braces
- Limited slip plates for the rear diff. ARA310984
- MMM Germany rear aluminum skid plate


I use the stock ESC mount provided with the ESC :
Arrma - Kraton EXB - ESC mount .jpg

As when the motor wires are plugged in the esc they touch the roll cage, i move the HW ESC mount on the side and i drill 4 new holes in the Arrma ESC mount :
Arrma - Kraton EXB - ESC mount 1 .jpg

I removes the Deans connectors from the esc to replace them with XT90 :
Arrma - Kraton EXB - ESC plug 1 .jpg

Arrma - Kraton EXB - ESC plug 2 .jpg

Bad suprise with the stock servo mount. Arrma have put thread lock on the screws and the screws head were already not in good shape, so i managed to strip two of them. I didn't watse my time, i drilled the heads to remove the stock servo mount and i directly ordered a GPM servo mount as the Arrma one is really too expensive for what it is :
Arrma - Kraton EXB - servo mount stripped screws .jpg

Arrma - Kraton EXB - servo mount GPM .jpg

For using the GPM servo mount with the Eco boost servo and to avoid the bottom of the servo to touch the chassis plate, i have added the black washers which come with the Arrma servo mount and the shims/washers which come with the GPM servo mount :
Arrma - Kraton EXB - servo mount GPM 1 .jpg

Arrma - Kraton EXB - servo mount GPM 2 .jpg

The result :

Arrma - Kraton EXB - electronics .jpg

I will use the stock motor pinion for starting.

Differential :

It come with the good number of shims, but 2 bigs and 1 small on each side instead of 1 big and 2 smalls and the total thickness is 0.66mm :
Arrma - Kraton EXB - open diff .jpg

So i decided to put the limited slip plates and mounted them in the same order than on the photo :
Arrma - Kraton EXB - limited slip plates .jpg

Everything went nicely :
Arrma - Kraton EXB - limited slip plates mounted .jpg

I added two shims on the crow gear side, 1x Kyosho 96772 13x16x0.15mm + 1x tekno TKR1222 13x16x0.1mm :
Arrma - Kraton EXB - limited slip plates side shims .jpg

For the front differential only 1x kyosho shim was enough.

All the differantials came filled with less than half of what we can normally put.

Differential oils : front 10 000, center 100 000, rear 7000.


M2C 3035 :
Arrma - Kraton EXB - M2C 3035 .jpg

MMM-Germany aluminum skid plate :
Arrma - Kraton EXB - MMM skid plate 2 .jpg

Wheelie bar :
Arrma - Kraton EXB - wheelie bar .jpg

Other things

Threadlocker :

Arrma - Kraton EXB - threadlocker .jpg

Come on Arrma, we really don't need this amount of threadlock, it is really too much.

I have adjusted the droop screws to avoid the shock absorber to be over-extended. I have also added two small piece of rubber tube at the bottom of the shock shaft, just above the shock plastic cup, to avoid to the shock to be too much compressed and allow the front drive CVD to pop out of the diff. outdrive.
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Nice build. For that rear skid, do you have to add holes in the chassis? Nuts on top side? Are they easy to get to around a motor?
Nice build. For that rear skid, do you have to add holes in the chassis? Nuts on top side? Are they easy to get to around a motor?
The 2 forward holes need to be drilled in the chassis with nuts on top, the holes straddle the rear center driveshaft and don't come near the motor.
Nice! I like the idea. It should stiffen up the weakest part of the chassis IMO, the thin rear. Just like what they did with the K8S.
Time to send it

Yes, i look forward...but, i have a kind of job that almost doesn't let me know if i will work or not the next day. And to have even less chance, there is a storm right now and it doesn't stop to rain with pretty lot of wind...:cautious:

I just did a short test in the street in front of my house, on 4s only, and this thing pop up wheelies :p
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