Kraton Kraton 6s v5 punch 5 flipping on its head and wheelie bar issues and snaking in reverse

[Am12eaz]

Smart move, evaluate from there. That's what I would do myself. 20k to start. However, I find with the 6s line, running thinner at the Rear (1/2 thinner to start) than the front gives you more steering, FWIW. So try doing 20k in the front only first. Leave 10k at rear. Evaluate from there. Sometimes too thick in the rear makes it harder to control. And the 4x4 line are rather light to begin with. Probably want to maintain more traction at the rear. This can be subjective to how you drive as well. We all have different expectations. Make one change at a time and evaluate from there.

Just done the rear diff on the vorteks as a practice and there was loads of grease on the diff aswell as the input gear ...once i opened up the diff there seemed to be around a half full amount of diff fluid in there as opposed to what I put in ...emptied it out and filled it to the middle bearing around three quarters full of the bottom casing ....all back together and off out tomorrow to stock up on those other liquids and then do the front of the vorteks and then the kraton !!!

BTW the tyres were run straight on tarmac which is why I had so much balding lol waiting on new road tyres however I did camber these ones up yesterday night to neg 2 on back and neg 3 on front for road use!!!

 

[slick2500]

What would you recommend for thr vorteks 10k standard

I can't remember what the 1/10 cars have stock and I can't even remember what I put in them for diff oils anymore but I think I stuck with the stock oil weight as I found that sufficient.

I really need to start a spreadsheet and jot down what I have as far as setups for each car.

What I would really like is for a web based app that has a basic setup sheet that you fill in and create a setup sheet for said car, you can make as many setup sheets as you want, organize them how you want and have access to them from your home computer or even your cell phone.

 

[Am12eaz]

I can't remember what the 1/10 cars have stock and I can't even remember what I put in them for diff oils anymore but I think I stuck with the stock oil weight as I found that sufficient.

I really need to start a spreadsheet and jot down what I have as far as setups for each car.

What I would really like is for a web based app that has a basic setup sheet that you fill in and create a setup sheet for said car, you can make as many setup sheets as you want, organize them how you want and have access to them from your home computer or even your cell phone.

Maybe even a app that gives you diff oil recomendations based on preferred driving styles on that specific vehicle ..that would be cool

 

[Am12eaz]

Hey @SrC you think 8 could use a x-hard spring for the kratons standard servo saver part number Z-ARA340178

Finding a hr one in the UK is impossible without importing it ....

Also I guessing I can open the standard saver on the standard saver if they are selling the springs for it??

 

[slick2500]

Hey @SrC you think 8 could use a x-hard spring for the kratons standard servo saver part number Z-ARA340178

Finding a hr one in the UK is impossible without importing it ....

Also I guessing I can open the standard saver on the standard saver if they are selling the springs for it??

Yes you can use the x hard spring on the stock servo saver.

You can take apart the servo saver but it's easiest with a vice otherwise you almost need 3 hands. I would also recommend you to use some heat on the servo saver as it is normally caked in red thread lock.

 

[Am12eaz]

Yes you can use the x hard spring on the stock servo saver.

You can take apart the servo saver but it's easiest with a vice otherwise you almost need 3 hands. I would also recommend you to use some heat on the servo saver as it is normally caked in red thread lock.

Need to find some bushings and bits and then go to my old man's just to get this spring off lol ....

 

[morrjr71]

I can't remember what the 1/10 cars have stock and I can't even remember what I put in them for diff oils anymore but I think I stuck with the stock oil weight as I found that sufficient.

I really need to start a spreadsheet and jot down what I have as far as setups for each car.

I don't use spreadsheets, but I do keep all the info into an individual Word file for each vehicle. I can copy the info from the Word files and paste it into a new build post or an older post if I change the build.

 

[Am12eaz]

Armoured the Arrma!!! 3rd vehicle iv done I think I'm getting better at this reinforcing malarkey!!

 

[Snowmandk]

Yes you can use the x hard spring on the stock servo saver.

You can take apart the servo saver but it's easiest with a vice otherwise you almost need 3 hands. I would also recommend you to use some heat on the servo saver as it is normally caked in red thread lock.

That seems like an overly laborious way to unscrew the servo saver
Just use 2 socket wrenches and push while turning, doesn't take much strength either.

 

[Am12eaz]

That seems like an overly laborious way to unscrew the servo saver
Just use 2 socket wrenches and push while turning, doesn't take much strength either.

I messaged the guy who made the video and he stated that the video was made for the older kratons where arrma had used excessive loctite on the savers hence the laborious method..he also mentioned on the newer models I could do what u just stated....so that's what I will do haha

 

[Snowmandk]

I messaged the guy who made the video and he stated that the video was made for the older kratons where arrma had used excessive loctite on the savers hence the laborious method..he also mentioned on the newer models I could do what u just stated....so that's what I will do haha

Now that you mention it, it does seem like they got more reasonable with the use of threadlock in recent times.
I had one saver that was literally caked in threadlock, like someone just dipped the whole assembly in it.

Good luck

 

[slick2500]

Now that you mention it, it does seem like they got more reasonable with the use of threadlock in recent times.
I had one saver that was literally caked in threadlock, like someone just dipped the whole assembly in it.

Good luck

I haven't taken the one on the Fireteam apart yet but the one on my EXB, the $200 Kraton and the one I got from Jennys were just caked in thread lock.

 

[Am12eaz]

Now that you mention it, it does seem like they got more reasonable with the use of threadlock in recent times.
I had one saver that was literally caked in threadlock, like someone just dipped the whole assembly in it.

Good luck

Madness!!! Il post up when I get round to it! People were saying the diffs be like minimal fluid and no grease but mine looked OK tbf so I guess arrma have been stepping up to the rtr plate

 

[slick2500]

Madness!!! Il post up when I get round to it! People were saying the diffs be like minimal fluid and no grease but mine looked OK tbf so I guess arrma have been stepping up to the rtr plate

It's rather hit or miss if they are filled.

 

[Am12eaz]

It happened out of the blue and when people said my reverse was too powerful I came to understand that was also a factor in the reverse wobble

Hey @SrC Hope your well ....because im not haha so after reciving the servo and trying to remove the servo saver ....the servo hits the floor of the chassis and sits about 5mm above the fastrax aluminium mount....the arm I bought gives a bit of a angle downward which I think is playing too much with the servo saver....iv noticed that the servo I bought is a bigger dimension from mounting holes to the bottom compared to the ds3235 so iv ripped this one back out ...ordered a ds3235 however after a long fight with the servo saver I think I may have fudged that up because the nut started turning within the casing....iv since ordered the adjustable servo saver nut (arrma AR340065) as here in the UK can't seem to find a hot racing one or the like unless I wait ages for it from the states) iv also ordered a new servo saver bellcrank set so I can just hit the reset and start over fresh so I can rule out any errors etc....

Is there anything I need to watch out for when putting in this servo to get the horn set flat or is the angle always a by product?

And once I assemble the new saver with the x-hard arrma spring I also have should I crank the adjustment nut up as tight as I can get it or should I leave some play?

Thanks mate

 

[SrC]

WIth the"Fixed" Type Servo saver and the new "X-Hard" SS spring, the nut must be completely bottomed out.
Install the Servo in its mount so there is clearance at the bottom at the chassis.Not touching it. Use shims as need to raise the servo in the mount as needed. Then make the Arm "Link" level if it is not, by using a spacer or M3 washers.
I think I showed pix of my setup above somewhere? What it should look like.

 

[Am12eaz]

WIth the"Fixed" Type Servo saver and the new "X-Hard" SS spring, the nut must be completely bottomed out.
Install the Servo in its mount so there is clearance at the bottom at the chassis.Not touching it. Use shims as need to raise the servo in the mount as needed. Then make the Arm "Link" level if it is not, by using a spacer or washers.
I think I showed pix of my setup above somewhere? What it should look like.

Got ya ...bottom out as in tighten it until it don't tighten anymore..... got ya...shud I use and threadlock on it ?

 

[SrC]

Yeah some Blue TL is in order for sure.
Should be tight all the way.

....If not tight all the way, the belcrank/SS won't even fit between the "chassis" and the "Steering top plate".
>>>Now is a good time to replace the 4 Steering Brass Bushings with full BB's, while you have the Whole belcrank out.
If you have not done so already.

Edited.

 

[Am12eaz]

I highly recommend checking the diffs and shimming when new out the box. Diffs are low on oil 99% of the time and factory shimming is always questionable as well.
I would do this now, whether you ran it or not yet. The choice is yours. Neglect this and your diffs won't last as long as they normally would. Either way you will be servicing all 3 diffs anyway. Might as well give them a fighting chance and do some preventive maintenance now.
There are many threads here in regards to this. Many videos also.
FWIW, I run 60k Fr/ 500k Cntr/ 20k-30k Rr CST Oil. Most here run these Oils for best performance and least diff wear.
Need a thicker oil than the stock oil, which is only 10k/100k/10k. Buy the oils before opening up your diffs. Need it on hand.
Yeah diffs do have a slight break-in to them. I usually do some tight figure eights with my rig after a rebuild. Build up speed gradually. Or use my drill with the diffs in hand before installing them. Another topic altogether.
Personally I rebuild my whole rig when new out the box before running it. But that is just me. Many don't.
Absolutely go over each and every screw, if anything.

Hey I just done the front diff nd after putting it back together it seems it has a lot more stiffness to the diff ? Is this normal as iv took it apart and put it back together from vids and sorts and it rotates opposite to each other but a lot tougher to do so...

 

[razorrc]

If it's grindy/notchy, then you probably didn't mesh the teeth on the gears properly.