Kraton Kraton motor different version

[Ulaan]

Hey guys i'm going to buy from a friend an used version of kraton v2, but i see it has a motor with red color similar to the first motor version of kraton (v1) even if it has the same writing of the v2 (there is write arrma hot motor). It's normal? because i always see the kraton v2 with a black motor, thanks guys

 

[dpricenator]

He may have put a NERO motor in it. If so, you wil have more power than a stock Kraton. Be sure he shimmed the Differentials. If not, I would do it pretty quick. Any play in the diffs, with all that power could be trouble.

 

[Ulaan]

He may have put a NERO motor in it. If so, you wil have more power than a stock Kraton. Be sure he shimmed the Differentials. If not, I would do it pretty quick. Any play in the diffs, with all that power could be trouble.

Ok thanks. What i have to do? Change original differentials or there is an other way.

 

[Dietrich_40]

Ok thanks. What i have to do? Change original differentials or there is an other way.

YouTube "how to build a bulletproof diff" the video gives all part numbers needed and is step by step how to shim them. Best one I have seen.

 

[Timritchieblue]

He may have put a NERO motor in it. If so, you wil have more power than a stock Kraton. Be sure he shimmed the Differentials. If not, I would do it pretty quick. Any play in the diffs, with all that power could be trouble.

Nero motor has more power than a stock Kraton motor?

 

[Jerry-rigged]

The red 2050kv motor is the V1. The red 2000kv motor is the Nero motor.

I've never run the black can 4074 2000kv motor. But the Nero motor vs the v1 motor - huge piles of torque, and runs cool. Rare to see it come off a battery over about 110f (14t pinion, 4s). The v1 had a similar top speed, but it needed to 'wind up' to get there, and it liked to run 140f-150f. Nero motor is a beast, top to bottom.

another pic -

 

[Timritchieblue]

The red 2050kv motor is the V1. The red 2000kv motor is the Nero motor.

I've never run the black can 4074 2000kv motor. But the Nero motor vs the v1 motor - huge piles of torque, and runs cool. Rare to see it come off a battery over about 110f (14t pinion, 4s). The v1 had a similar top speed, but it needed to 'wind up' to get there, and it liked to run 140f-150f. Nero motor is a beast, top to bottom.

another pic -

Good to know,, never had a stock Kraton motor,, bought mine as a roller. I do own a Nero motor,, sold my Nero as a Roller

 

[dpricenator]

Ok thanks. What i have to do? Change original differentials or there is an other way.

Check out the drivetrain forum. someone linked the correct video there. I believe it is for the granite, but it's the same differential. basically you are just taking the play out of the diffs.

Oh yeah, you need an aluminum servo mount, and alum chassis braces

 

[Ulaan]

Is this nero motor?

 

[chevys10zr2003]

Is this nero motor?

View attachment 13953

That appears to be the V1 Kraton motor. The Nero motor has bare metal on the edges of the fins while the V1 motor has completely red fins. Even if it is a V1, it's still a great machine, just might need to upgrade some parts to V2/V3 parts if the stock ones break.

With this, the big question is, what ESC is in it? The stock red ESC in the V1's was known to have problems.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Yeah, that looks like the V1 motor. Look at the end cap. If it says 2050kv, then yeah, v1. Like Chevys said, it is not a bad motor. It would push the v1 kraton to 60mph on 6s/14t pinion. It just ran hot.

And yes, if you have the stock v1 red BLX180, start saving for a new ESC. They have a bad throttle delay that makes in-air corrections nearly impossible, and general track driving tough (power delay coming out of corners)

 

[Ulaan]

I think it's the new version. This kraton is a mix old motor but new esc, tyres and radio

 

[chevys10zr2003]

View attachment 13956 I think it's the new version. This kraton is a mix old motor but new esc, tyres and radio

Maybe the previous owner blew the stock V2 motor and replaced it with a V1 motor...?? I don't know enough of what is all different between the V1's and V2's to give a good solid answer, but I would lean towards a V2 with a V1 motor as I don't know anybody that would replace all the stuff that you had listed with newer RTR stock stuff. Most people would replace that stuff with aftermarket unless you got a great deal but I don't know for sure.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

More likely, they blew the BLX180, and got it replaced with a BLX185. Arrma was doing that for a while, if you had a receipt for the purchase of the RC. Motors don't fail very often, but the BLX180 did...

 

[Ulaan]

More likely, they blew the BLX180, and got it replaced with a BLX185. Arrma was doing that for a while, if you had a receipt for the purchase of the RC. Motors don't fail very often, but the BLX180 did...

So even if it's the v1 version do you think it's a good deal ?

 

[chevys10zr2003]

More likely, they blew the BLX180, and got it replaced with a BLX185. Arrma was doing that for a while, if you had a receipt for the purchase of the RC. Motors don't fail very often, but the BLX180 did...

That was my first thought as well but I just don't think many people would replace the V1 tires and radio with the V2 version and not just go to aftermarket with them. I'm not saying that nobody would, I just know I would go aftermarket with them.

So even if it's the v1 version do you think it's a good deal ?

Without knowing what you paid, where you're located and the condition of it, nobody can really say if you got a good deal or not. Regardless the important thing is if you are happy with it. That's all that matters.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Depends on the price. My kraton is a V1. So is my Typhon. With the Kraton, I would look at the front hubs. If they are "smooth" on the wheel size, between the red pillow ball screws, then it is a v1. And you probably want to upgrade the hubs, as they eat the inner bearings. The V2 hub has the wheel-side bearing moved outboard by about 1/4", with ribbing to reinforce the outer bearing. If you need to upgrade, you need the plastic hub, and the red axle stub. Easy job. Also, the later V1 trucks came with the revised hubs.

The V2 upgrades were -
Motor & ESC
Front hubs (Kraton only)
Wing mount.
Oh, and the radio, paint, and tires were changed.

Pics of the truck, and radio?

 

[Ulaan]

Depends on the price. My kraton is a V1. So is my Typhon. With the Kraton, I would look at the front hubs. If they are "smooth" on the wheel size, between the red pillow ball screws, then it is a v1. And you probably want to upgrade the hubs, as they eat the inner bearings. The V2 hub has the wheel-side bearing moved outboard by about 1/4", with ribbing to reinforce the outer bearing. If you need to upgrade, you need the plastic hub, and the red axle stub. Easy job. Also, the later V1 trucks came with the revised hubs.

The V2 upgrades were -
Motor & ESC
Front hubs (Kraton only)
Wing mount.
Oh, and the radio, paint, and tires were changed.

Pics of the truck, and radio?

The body is the one of the v2 and even the radio, the car is in Perfect conditions and the Price is 350

 

[chevys10zr2003]

The body is the one of the v2 and even the radio, the car is in Perfect conditions and the Price is 350

If the body, tires, radio and ESC are V2, I would lean V2 with a V1 motor. But like @Jerry-rigged said, pictures would help a lot more. I know that I had a bearing blow out in my V2 motor in my Senton, which Arrma replaced the entire motor, so it could be possible that the bearing blew out and the guy replaced it with a V1 motor he got for cheap.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Seems like an OK deal, but for $350, I would rather see the v2 motor. I'd point out the motor difference and offer $300. If he holds fast, though, it is still a decent deal.

Like I said before, nothing wrong with the V1 motor. it just runs hot. It is only 'weak' compared to my Nero motor. Before I got that motor, I thought the v1 was very strong.