Looking for a plastic spur gear for my Kraton 6s

[Mikeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeal]

Earplugs probably are just the way to go but if you decide to get the closed in motor mount you should get this one from vitavon. Great quality parts and it's actually more closed in than that other one is. Comes in red or silver. Also same price

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2844661036...JylWtYAS6u&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Looking at the other one again I guess it would close up once you actually set gear mesh. But still I vote vitavon

That's the way to go imo. I didn't even know that existed.

 

[StephenSchandelmayer]

That's the way to go imo. I didn't even know that existed.

Agreed. I think it would help for sure. I want to get them for my build but I need 2. Ouch

 

[Tex Koder]

If you want to have a 3D printed Plastic Spur gear that'll handle the stresses of bashing, it'll need to be printed with carbon fiber reinforced nylon , something a Markforge printer can do with high precision.
I've handled parts made by those printers, Very impressive for it's strength and finish.

But, with a starting price of $44,000 for their entry-level (X3 unit) ,plus additional for their CF-infused filaments.. My wife just wouldn't approve.
Also if you like their higher-end FX20 models, they won't tell you the price, you'll need to give them a call and set up a meeting.


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Agreed that a belt drive would probably be quietest. Not trivial, though, unfortunately. There were belt drive 4WD touring cars, back in the day, maybe something exists that could be a starting point?

Does anyone sell angled gears, or some other style that's quieter than straight-cut? Of course, you'd still have the front & rear differentials to deal with. I wonder if trying to kind of pack sound insulation around the the different gear sets could help muffle them?

The belt tension needed..would probably cause your motor bearings to wear out prematurely..

Heck, even adding something to the body, so it helps deaden the sound, rather than acting as a big sounding board? Silly, but imagine wrapping the body with part of a towel (the outside is probably simpler), just as a test. I'll bet that could help.

You can spray Line-X on the bodies.. that'll do it.

 

[Johnny b]

But, with a starting price of $44,000 for their entry-level (X3 unit) ,plus additional for their CF-infused filaments.. My wife just wouldn't approve.
Also if you like their higher-end FX20 models, they won't tell you the price, you'll need to give them a call and set up a meeting.

Thought it would be neat to own one of these. Think I'm gonna pass!

 

[Tex Koder]

Thought it would be neat to own one of these. Think I'm gonna pass!

There's some pre-owned ones that can be had for more than half off!
But, the service contract would be exuberant, I'm guessing.

 

[dure16]

If you want to have a 3D printed Plastic Spur gear that'll handle the stresses of bashing, it'll need to be printed with carbon fiber reinforced nylon , something a Markforge printer can do with high precision.
I've handled parts made by those printers, Very impressive for it's strength and finish.

But, with a starting price of $44,000 for their entry-level (X3 unit) ,plus additional for their CF-infused filaments.. My wife just wouldn't approve.
Also if you like their higher-end FX20 models, they won't tell you the price, you'll need to give them a call and set up a meeting.


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The belt tension needed..would probably cause your motor bearings to wear out prematurely..




You can spray Line-X on the bodies.. that'll do it.

Why such a pricey printer? I’ve seen a few printers under $1K that can print CF nylon.

 

[RedOctobyr]

If you want to have a 3D printed Plastic Spur gear that'll handle the stresses of bashing, it'll need to be printed with carbon fiber reinforced nylon , something a Markforge printer can do with high precision.
I've handled parts made by those printers, Very impressive for it's strength and finish.

But, with a starting price of $44,000 for their entry-level (X3 unit) ,plus additional for their CF-infused filaments.. My wife just wouldn't approve.
Also if you like their higher-end FX20 models, they won't tell you the price, you'll need to give them a call and set up a meeting.
******************
The belt tension needed..would probably cause your motor bearings to wear out prematurely..

I'm sure it's not as good as those. But at work we just got a MakerBot Method X, which can use carbon-filled materials. Currently $5k.

My little Ender 3 at home is a far cry from even entry-level commercial, obviously. But even it can use fiber-filled materials, with some upgrades.

A typical vehicle motor might have problems due to belt tension. But there are high-powered big helis (like 12S) which are belt driven. I don't know if they just have bigger bearings, etc, but this at least can be managed, apparently. Or would be kind of cool if you had 1 belt going forward, 1 going to the back. So their tensions could sort of cancel each other out somewhat, avoiding just yanking the motor shaft to the side.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I suspect those metal gearbox covers will still transmit some of the sounds. I would think a plastic one would work better.
There has to be some amount of sound directly transmitted through the metal-to-metal connections.

As an ultra low cost method.... You could probably top over the whole area and then put some expanding foam over it. Then cut away the excess.

Belt drive would be the best solution in my opinion if you can get the ratio needed. A belt drive is so smooth and quiet!

 

[Tex Koder]

...

A typical vehicle motor might have problems due to belt tension. But there are high-powered big helis (like 12S) which are belt driven. I don't know if they just have bigger bearings, etc, but this at least can be managed, apparently. Or would be kind of cool if you had 1 belt going forward, 1 going to the back. So their tensions could sort of cancel each other out somewhat, avoiding just yanking the motor shaft to the side.

True.
However, the belt-drive system in a Helicopter Rotates ONLY in One direction. And usually it's at a particular RPM range during flight..

Most pilots will Never put their heli's belt transmission system in violent maneuvers >> like Sudden jolting Stops, Reverse and then violently go Forward again as AF folks would do in their Bashers while doing Stunts or Big Jumps or just tumbling around the dirt field.

Granted I never owned a heli ,but I do know there are Extreme 3D stunt heli pilots (who put their copters in INSANE maneuvers)

Even still the stresses on those belts & pulleys wouldn't be the same as on an Arrma basher vehicle.

 

[RedOctobyr]

Very true. With the one-way-bearing, you can't really try to "drive" the heli's motor. If you over-speed the head (like letting the passing air speed up the rotors while descending), I think that should just freewheel the motor, so to speak. Like it wouldn't be trying to speed up the motor, something else in the transmission would just be spinning faster, but that wouldn't twist the motor.

I was thinking more in terms of motors handling side-loads from big/tight belts. But you're right, it's not apples-apples.

 

[turn2burn]

I need to get a 3d printer. I like the idea but I see more the problem of braking and wear. I still would try it if I had access to a machine shop. And its plastic so thats kinda difficult. If there was a ready make option Id be in. \

So thanks Steven I bought that transmission housing in silver (I could see leaks). Its sealed at the bottom so Im going to put something like lithium, sticky or superlube with teflon in it. Depending the construction I may use RTV.

It almost seems with a belt drive you could need a clutch for the spur gear. And impact to wheel in wonky way would create a different force and mess up the motor. I was thinking it would just skip, but then you start burning through belts.

The closed transmission with lube is the best option. Setting the pinion gear might be interesting. Its a bummer there isnt a 4th mounting screw on it for 4 nicely planted corners. Its also massive and Im not sure how much weight it will add.

You all had some good input thanks a bunch.

Heat sinks around housing with thermal paste, I have them laying around, and my mesh

 

[dure16]

A belt drive

It almost seems with a belt drive you could need a clutch for the spur gear. And impact to wheel in wonky way would create a different force and mess up the motor. I was thinking it would just skip, but then you start burning through belts.

Can you elaborate here? Why would a clutch be needed for belt but not gear?

 

[turn2burn]

And mesh, rats I the forum wont let me upload it, low rez

 

[jamesbea]

True.
However, the belt-drive system in a Helicopter Rotates ONLY in One direction. And usually it's at a particular RPM range during flight..

Most pilots will Never put their heli's belt transmission system in violent maneuvers >> like Sudden jolting Stops, Reverse and then violently go Forward again as AF folks would do in their Bashers while doing Stunts or Big Jumps or just tumbling around the dirt field.

Granted I never owned a heli ,but I do know there are Extreme 3D stunt heli pilots (who put their copters in INSANE maneuvers)

Even still the stresses on those belts & pulleys wouldn't be the same as on an Arrma basher vehicle.

That is crazy. I must admit I would be a nervous wreck standing that close to someone piloting a helicopter like that. I could only imagine if they lost control and the blades hit someone.

 

[RedOctobyr]

That is crazy. I must admit I would be a nervous wreck standing that close to someone piloting a helicopter like that. I could only imagine if they lost control and the blades hit someone.

Some people's skills are absolutely amazing. But yeah, they can be very dangerous. Years ago someone was killed (almost decapitated, apparently) when he was hit by his 700-class heli, as I recall.

They are giant carbon fiber blades, spinning very fast. They will win against people, in an instant. My big one is much smaller, 500-class, and I still find it pretty imposing, and would never get it anywhere close to me or someone else.

Part of what's scary is how complex helis are, relying on a whole lot of things ALL working together. One link breaks, one bolt loosens, one servo fails, and it's going out of control. Even an incredible pilot could still have a terrible accident, due to a mechanical problem.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

A belt drive

Can you elaborate here? Why would a clutch be needed for belt but not gear?

The gear that is driven by the belt on the spur side could have the ability to slip with a clutch to reduce the chance of breakage.
Never seen that function designed into an RC car with belt drive, but it exists on the 3s/Mega line with gear drive.

 

[dure16]

I wonder if there are any other spur gears or entire diffs that would fit. The Tekno MT410 and Traxxas Maxx come with plastic mod 1 spur gears and those drivetrains are both pretty tough.

 

[bukshypro]

I wonder if there are any other spur gears or entire diffs that would fit. The Tekno MT410 and Traxxas Maxx come with plastic mod 1 spur gears and those drivetrains are both pretty tough.

this is a question I ask myself tons of times when thinking of my Vorteks. what other cars of other brands items I could use in my Vorteks that are better and cheaper. Im thinking diffs, spur gears, shocks(!!!), driveshafts. especially dog bone version I'd love to see in Vorteks

 

[Hector_Fisher]

I wonder if there are any other spur gears or entire diffs that would fit. The Tekno MT410 and Traxxas Maxx come with plastic mod 1 spur gears and those drivetrains are both pretty tough.

Was kind of thinking something similar. As long as its isn't bigger than the stock diff, if you meet the same bearing to bearing length, you might be able to use a diff from another truck. I know the tekno SCT center diff is mod 1 and plastic, for example. And that will take 4s.

 

[turn2burn]

Well I'd trust Teckno, Im amazed they use a plastic gear, composite really I guess. Well I still will look into this, its just getting a spur with the holes to match of the diff housing. And maybe width.

I bought that transmission housing but haven't gotten it yet. Unfortunately the spur gear still passes through to the chassis like stock. I know this sounds crazy but aluminium works really well with JB Weld, so Im going to grind a little rectangle on it and put a small piece of aluminum covering the spur gear from the bottom. Ill use RTV on anything else and put grease, yes grease in the tranny.

I don't care if I have to buy a new diff every month if it makes it quieter. Sounds are painful to me. As long as no contaminates get in I think its a pretty good experiment. But yea a plastic spur gear would be so much easier.