Granite Mega to 3s BLX to 4s Conversion and durability questions

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Slim69782003

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. 4x4-Mega
As many of you know, I started out with a Granite 4X4 MEGGA, and upgraded the power train to 3s BLX parts along with the BLX turnbuckles to fix the steering slop issues I was having. I broke a lot of parts, and the granite has spent more time on the shelf or getting repaired than bashing. I have yet to go through a full 2s battery.

So as I was looking at upgrading the Granite chasis, I found a 4s SWB rolling chasis cheaper than all the upgrades I was looking at. So this lead me to a question I haven't found the answer to. Is the 4s chasis, an upgrade to the MEGA chasis in reguards to control arms, steering, and general overal handeling?
 
As many of you know, I started out with a Granite 4X4 MEGGA, and upgraded the power train to 3s BLX parts along with the BLX turnbuckles to fix the steering slop issues I was having. I broke a lot of parts, and the granite has spent more time on the shelf or getting repaired than bashing. I have yet to go through a full 2s battery.

So as I was looking at upgrading the Granite chasis, I found a 4s SWB rolling chasis cheaper than all the upgrades I was looking at. So this lead me to a question I haven't found the answer to. Is the 4s chasis, an upgrade to the MEGA chasis in reguards to control arms, steering, and general overal handeling?
Depends if you have the 4WD mega then yes because the 3s-4s-mega line share a lot of parts
Keep in mind the outcast 4s is bassicly a granite 3s with longer arms bigger hubs and hexes
 
Depends if you have the 4WD mega then yes because the 3s-4s-mega line share a lot of parts
Keep in mind the outcast 4s is bassicly a granite 3s with longer arms bigger hubs and hexes
Yes I have the mega, just a couple of 3s upgrades. Mostly concerned with the durability of the 4s lower control arms along with shock recommendations if I were to upgrade to a 4s chassis.
 
Depending on how much loose dirt you take it in and how heavy your throttle finger is, you may want to upgrade to a metal spur gear. I broke one rear arm on the first day of jumping my Outcast 4S, but haven't broken any arms since then. Unfortunately, even when I attempt to baby it I still wind up breaking something during jump sessions. I have the typical other issues that everyone else has with the 3S and 4S vehicles: leaky shocks and weak bearings. I'm waiting for Jenny RC to get some Typhon 6S shocks in.
 
so shocks is still 6s shocks, I see that HR has new shock bodies, that use the old 3s and 4s shocks, do they leak as well?

Bearings will be FastEddy again, I have had great luck with them in the past.

As for spur gear, is the stock 4s spur gear metal?

I don't jump, yet... I haven't been able to keep it under control enough to keep from breaking something important enough to keep running.... since upgrading to 2s batteries, I haven't gone through a single battery, thankfully my crawler also uses 2s so I can run the battery down enough to recharge.
 
I have the 3s version and they do not leak and very recommended!
I remeber reading one of your posts, glad you still like them, think im going to go that way first.i think you guys have me convinced to go ahead and get the chasis I am looking at, or one simular as money allows.
I have the 3s version and they do not leak and very recommended!
I remeber reading one of your posts, glad you still like them, think im going to go that way first.i think you guys have me convinced to go ahead and get the chasis I am looking at, or one simular as money allows.
 
I remeber reading one of your posts, glad you still like them, think im going to go that way first.i think you guys have me convinced to go ahead and get the chasis I am looking at, or one simular as money allows.

I remeber reading one of your posts, glad you still like them, think im going to go that way first.i think you guys have me convinced to go ahead and get the chasis I am looking at, or one simular as money allows.
The 3s shock mighthavr lesking issues but not much in the 4s line me after 3 oil changes still no lrsk sfter 5 months just use oring reals when rebuilding any kind of part that contain o rings i personally use green slime stopped the little lesks i had in the rear and front differsntial
Nothing massive but enough to attrack dirt
 
As many of you know, I started out with a Granite 4X4 MEGGA, and upgraded the power train to 3s BLX parts along with the BLX turnbuckles to fix the steering slop issues I was having. I broke a lot of parts, and the granite has spent more time on the shelf or getting repaired than bashing. I have yet to go through a full 2s battery.

So as I was looking at upgrading the Granite chasis, I found a 4s SWB rolling chasis cheaper than all the upgrades I was looking at. So this lead me to a question I haven't found the answer to. Is the 4s chasis, an upgrade to the MEGA chasis in reguards to control arms, steering, and general overal handeling?
The chassis is identical, but the driveshafts, a-arms, turnbuckles, hubs, and steering blocks will be upgrades. It will have larger bearings inside the hubs too. It should also have the 4S slipper if it is included. Not sure how complete of a roller it is.
 
When I went to rebuild my Outcast 4S shock I discovered that I only had a shock rebuild kit for the 3S series vehicles. Thus I had to reuse the existing o-ring. I cleaned everything out and applied some Green Slime. It didn't work for me and the leak has returned after only 3 runs. Whereas others may have good success with the 4S shocks they aren't working out so well for me. I do like the basic design, though.
 
Careful with the metal spur. If you’re stripping plastic ones you’re usually doing something wrong if it’s 32p or beefier. If you’re somehow finding issues, IMO, better to upgrade to plastic mod1 spur and soft metal pinion before you buy steel spur.
 
Careful with the metal spur. If you’re stripping plastic ones you’re usually doing something wrong if it’s 32p or beefier. If you’re somehow finding issues, IMO, better to upgrade to plastic mod1 spur and soft metal pinion before you buy steel spur.

I went the lazy method with my Typhon 3S and just purchased the 4S steel slipper assembly because it was a drop-in. Can you provide links to any potential mod 1 spur upgrades? That would be a nice direction to go. I would believe the only thing "wrong" I'm doing is expecting dirt to stay out of the gearbox when I'm kicking up the dry, Rocky Mountain dirt in my area! There was about a teaspoon of dirt in my Outcast 4S gearbox when I opened it last weekend to replace the bearings, differential gear and input gear.
 
I went the lazy method with my Typhon 3S and just purchased the 4S steel slipper assembly because it was a drop-in. Can you provide links to any potential mod 1 spur upgrades? That would be a nice direction to go. I would believe the only thing "wrong" I'm doing is expecting dirt to stay out of the gearbox when I'm kicking up the dry, Rocky Mountain dirt in my area! There was about a teaspoon of dirt in my Outcast 4S gearbox when I opened it last weekend to replace the bearings, differential gear and input gear.
I’ll do my best. I don’t currently own a 3s truck so forgive me if it doesn’t match up. This suggestion mainly came from my traxxas MTs because there’s a ton of aftermarket plastic mod1 gears out there.


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/283249792847

Yup all I found were traxxas and kyosho parts. Do those bolt patterns line up? I’m super scared of metal spur gears after snapping a motor shaft! It’s traumatizing. That’s why I prefer a mod1 plastic spur to a 32p metal one, even though the steel one is a bit more durable even with the weaker teeth pitch.
 
I went the lazy method with my Typhon 3S and just purchased the 4S steel slipper assembly because it was a drop-in. Can you provide links to any potential mod 1 spur upgrades? That would be a nice direction to go. I would believe the only thing "wrong" I'm doing is expecting dirt to stay out of the gearbox when I'm kicking up the dry, Rocky Mountain dirt in my area! There was about a teaspoon of dirt in my Outcast 4S gearbox when I opened it last weekend to replace the bearings, differential gear and input gear.
Mod 1.0 is possible, but the hard part is finding a suitable spur with the correct bore size. The slipper hub has a 10mm bore and most spurs I’ve found are 11mm. I’ve found the easiest way to deal with that is drill them out to 12mm and then insert a 10mm ID x 12mm OD bushing.
 
The chassis is identical, but the driveshafts, a-arms, turnbuckles, hubs, and steering blocks will be upgrades. It will have larger bearings inside the hubs too. It should also have the 4S slipper if it is included. Not sure how complete of a roller it is.
The missing parts on the chasis are the cv shafts, hex adapters, wheels, shocks, and electronics. the chasis comes with a-arms, turnbuckles, steering block, front/rear diffs, diff towers/body mounts, tower to tower to tower brace, motor mount, slipper assembly, and I think I saw the drive shaft but it wasnt listed. Also included was the hubs and bumpers. No wheely bar. I think that about sums it up.

So to complete I need 4s shocks from JRC and wheely bar, and HR shock bodies, HR steering rack, the correct sized hex adapters (I think 12mm irrc), and 4s cv shafts. Then Fast Eddy bearings to round out the package. Then reuse my Ghoul RC motor with matched ESC, tactic radio system, and my savox servo. Also I will reuse my HR servo saver.
 
Mod 1.0 is possible, but the hard part is finding a suitable spur with the correct bore size. The slipper hub has a 10mm bore and most spurs I’ve found are 11mm. I’ve found the easiest way to deal with that is drill them out to 12mm and then insert a 10mm ID x 12mm OD bushing.

Even if you did find something Mod 1.0 to fit the bore size I've gotta think that the spur would be too wide to fit into the 4S case. Plus, I always seem to have the misfortune of fabricating stuff which relies on some funky sized spur which comes out of some limited edition Yokomo that was only released to a handful of employees in some remote Japanese atoll. :D
 
The missing parts on the chasis are the cv shafts, hex adapters, wheels, shocks, and electronics. the chasis comes with a-arms, turnbuckles, steering block, front/rear diffs, diff towers/body mounts, tower to tower to tower brace, motor mount, slipper assembly, and I think I saw the drive shaft but it wasnt listed. Also included was the hubs and bumpers. No wheely bar. I think that about sums it up.

So to complete I need 4s shocks from JRC and wheely bar, and HR shock bodies, HR steering rack, the correct sized hex adapters (I think 12mm irrc), and 4s cv shafts. Then Fast Eddy bearings to round out the package. Then reuse my Ghoul RC motor with matched ESC, tactic radio system, and my savox servo. Also I will reuse my HR servo saver.
Grab the HR 17mm hex hubs. F@ck the stock 8mm flange nut BS
 
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