Metal vs composite.

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Andy2000

Active Member
Messages
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Location
Winnipeg, Canada
Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Granite
  3. Granite Mega
  4. Outcast 8s
Hi all. After looking at all of the fantastic pictures of some of the rigs you're running I have a question. I'm pretty sure it's self explanatory. A lot of you seem to be running composite arms. Figured I'd brighten up my girl with some bling but the bling wears out fast and she's getting floppy.

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Hi all. After looking at all of the fantastic pictures of some of the rigs you're running I have a question. I'm pretty sure it's self explanatory. A lot of you seem to be running composite arms. Figured I'd brighten up my girl with some bling but the bling wears out fast and she's getting floppy.

View attachment 295308

I'm sorry to hear about your floppy bling...
 
I do put some alum parts on some of my cars (steering bellcrank, hub bearing carriers, etc) but I will never put metal a-arms or shock towers on my cars (unless that is how they came stock). I tried alum shock towers once on my Slash Ultimate but they got removed in <1 season and replaced with RPM towers. If those 2 parts (that are stronger than all the others attached to them) do not flex, you will likely break other attached parts.
 
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The composite arms are quite tough.. especially the new 4S arms..
Just in case you ever decide to upSize and upgrade your current chassis setup.
 
The composite arms are quite tough.. especially the new 4S arms..
Just in case you ever decide to upSize and upgrade your current chassis setup.
Thinking about extending the arms. Did it on my son's granite mega. Nice and stable now. Eventually I'll take out my 8s Outcast. Bought in winter when on sale and have only had it out twice. Still has that new car smell😆
 
Alloy Bling has a place in "certain key areas". But also has its drawbacks. Added weight be one. And Alloy Arms on a 4x4 will ruin the chassis so easily. Same with most any RC.
Arms are considered sacrificial parts IMHO. Have you considered Nylon RPM Arms? Some flex is a good thing.
 
Just my humble opinion but alloy arms are for ON ROAD use only...They do provide some benefits when tuning an on road setup (more precision) and I suppose you'd get less flex at higher speeds. The weight difference can used to a benefit if you use them up front only to keep the wheelies down. But to bash off road or do any kind of acrobatics I'd say stick to composite. You need the flex to absorb the punishing landings. Even if you do decide to do the alloy arms you might as well go all in and do the bulkheads too. The "parts survival rate" goes up if its all alloy as opposed to alloy arms only with the composite bulkeads. Your first crash or even very small collision will show this to be true...
 
Just my humble opinion but alloy arms are for ON ROAD use only...They do provide some benefits when tuning an on road setup (more precision) and I suppose you'd get less flex at higher speeds. The weight difference can used to a benefit if you use them up front only to keep the wheelies down. But to bash off road or do any kind of acrobatics I'd say stick to composite. You need the flex to absorb the punishing landings. Even if you do decide to do the alloy arms you might as well go all in and do the bulkheads too. The "parts survival rate" goes up if its all alloy as opposed to alloy arms only with the composite bulkeads. Your first crash or even very small collision will show this to be true...
Is it advisable to change the c hubs and carriers back to composite as well or use aluminum like hot racing?
Is it advisable to change the c hubs and carriers back to composite as well or use aluminum like hot racing?
I have integy now but there's a lot of slop in there now too.
 
Is it advisable to change the c hubs and carriers back to composite as well or use aluminum like hot racing?

I have integy now but there's a lot of slop in there now too.
It won't hurt to leave the aluminum C hubs and carriers. I have Hot Racing C hubs, steering blocks, and rear axle carriers on my Kraton 6s with the stock composite suspension arms. IMO, Hot Racing parts are a step above Integy in quality and durability.
 
It won't hurt to leave the aluminum C hubs and carriers. I have Hot Racing C hubs, steering blocks, and rear axle carriers on my Kraton 6s with the stock composite suspension arms. IMO, Hot Racing parts are a step above Integy in quality and durability.
Ok,sounds like a plan. Thank you all for your advice 😀
 
Is it advisable to change the c hubs and carriers back to composite as well or use aluminum like hot racing?

I have integy now but there's a lot of slop in there now too.
I'd avoid Integy. The Hot Racing ones are pretty good. The Vitavons are excellent and probably the best in overall quality, fit and finish. Alloy hub carriers are a great upgrade. I'd recommend them (better bearings). The stock ones are good too but the bearings can fail with them especially if you run on rough, dirty terrain. Metal hub carriers don't add a lot of extra weight but they are sturdier and work well with the stock composite arms.
 
The Treal Hubs with an additional 3rd "middle" BB , looks to be another good viable option.
I like to minimize both sprung and unsprung weight when possible. Sprung weight being more of a problem.
 
Just my humble opinion but alloy arms are for ON ROAD use only...They do provide some benefits when tuning an on road setup (more precision) and I suppose you'd get less flex at higher speeds. The weight difference can used to a benefit if you use them up front only to keep the wheelies down. But to bash off road or do any kind of acrobatics I'd say stick to composite. You need the flex to absorb the punishing landings. Even if you do decide to do the alloy arms you might as well go all in and do the bulkheads too. The "parts survival rate" goes up if its all alloy as opposed to alloy arms only with the composite bulkeads. Your first crash or even very small collision will show this to be true...
+1
I was averse to putting aluminum arms on my Infraction but there comes a point where the spring tension is so high that the droop screws become useless and just strip out in the stock composite arms. I realize that a cheaper solution would have been to put fuel tubing stops inside the shocks to limit shock extension, but I'm even more averse to disassembling, draining, shorten/lengthen fuel tube, refilling and rebuilding my shocks when I want to adjust the ride height than I am to putting aluminum arms on my car.
 
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