Granite MiniFlip's Granite

[FlipSide]

I figured I should start a build thread for my son's Granite. It started as an unremarkable Mega V2, but it's now getting more interesting now that it is in "sleeper mode" with the 3S V3 guts...and I have a couple of things coming this winter, so I'll update as I move along with the modifications.

So, as it sits currently, it is a Mega V2 with rubber sealed bearings all-around and upgraded with the following parts from the 3S V3
- diffs + input gears
- Power module (slipper assembly + adjustable motor mount)
- ESC + motor
- Receiver box and Rx
- Spektrum SLT3 Tx
- Spektrum S651 servo + stock servo saver
- Front turnbuckle links
- Wheelie bar

I have the rest the the Granite 3S V3 as spare parts. I also have the ADS-15 servo from my Kraton V4 and a Kimbrough 124 servo saver ready and waiting for the 3S V3 Spektrum servo to fail.

A very cheap, but effective upgrade I did also was to solve the leaky shocks problem by replacing one of the o-rings in the shocks o-ring stack by a nitrile o-ring (2.6mm ID; 7mm OD, 2.2mm W). They did not lose a single drop of fluid in 5-6 months following this upgrade. I tried replacing the 2 o-rings, but it makes the stack too thick and I couldn't snap the plastic cap thingy into place. I guess one could use 2 of these thicker o-rings by shortening a little bit the plastic spacer between the 2 o-rings.

 

[RCBro80]

I wanna do the same, so I'm definitely interested!

 

[FlipSide]

I wanna do the same, so I'm definitely interested!

Cool! Let me know if you have any questions.

What I did was to buy a 3S V3 complete, transplant the electronics and diffs in the Mega and keep the rest of the new V3 as a parts donor. So far, I needed the rear shock tower, a front A-arm and the front control links.

It's a bit more expensive at first to buy a complete 3S V3 than only buying the necessary parts for the brushless conversion, but it's worth it when you take into account all the spares you get (better radio and receiver, chassis, body, wheels, shocks, shock towers, driveshafts, control links, steering assembly, hubs, bearings, etc.) I have absolutely no regrets about my strategy and I am wondering why (it seems) very few people are doing this. It's a bit like being your own part breaker! Jenny's RC is good, but as a fellow canadian, you will probably agree that the shipping charges + canadian taxes and custom fees makes it a bit less interesting.

 

[SrC]

Kimbrough SS's are great alternatives to the stock. The main difference is that the stocker is double shear at the link. (captured) The ADS-15 is a 25 spline FWIW. You may know this already. Good luck. Yo have a list of goodies there.

 

[FlipSide]

Kimbrough SS's are great alternatives to the stock. The ADS-15 is a 25 spline FWIW. You may know this already. Good luck. Yo have a list of goodies there.

Yes, I am aware about the 25 splines for the ADS-15. This is why I am running the Spektrum servo until it dies. I'll be done with 23 splines after that!

 

[SrC]

Yes, I am aware about the 25 splines for the ADS-15. This is why I am running the Spektrum servo until it dies. I'll be done with 23 splines after that!

Yeah I don't know why as of late many servos are not 25 spline. Considered a Futaba spline. Futaba originated that spline count years back for standard servos. The more splines , the easier to set the initial physical endpoints position with a servo arm with better precision. Less splines equals more robust retention without stripping however. Just my thoughts.

 

[RCBro80]

Cool! Let me know if you have any questions.

What I did was to buy a 3S V3 complete, transplant the electronics and diffs in the Mega and keep the rest of the new V3 as a parts donor. So far, I needed the rear shock tower, a front A-arm and the front control links.

It's a bit more expensive at first to buy a complete 3S V3 than only buying the necessary parts for the brushless conversion, but it's worth it when to take into account all the spares you get (better radio and receiver, chassis, body, wheels, shocks, shock towers, driveshafts, control links, steering assembly, hubs, bearings, etc.) I have absolutely no regrets about my strategy and I am wondering why (it seems) very few people are doing this. It's a bit like being your own part breaker! Jenny's RC is good, but as a fellow canadian, you will probably agree that the shipping charges + canadian taxes and custom fees makes it a bit less interesting.

I guess my only question is why not just drive the 3S version and use the mega for spare parts? If you want ppl to think it's a mega, you could use the body from the mega (the body post locations haven't changed have they?)

 

[FlipSide]

I guess my only question is why not just drive the 3S version and use the mega for spare parts? If you want ppl to think it's a mega, you could use the body from the mega (the body post locations haven't changed have they?)

I considered both scenarios, but I decided that I prefer keeping fresh parts in stock. Apart for the turnbuckle control links, all the the leftover parts are the same for the Mega and the 3S. I thought it made more sense to finish beating up the already used parts.

 

[FlipSide]

Added an Outcast 4S wing to the Granite tonight. It should help protecting the body.

 

[Big_Granite_Rock]

Added an Outcast 4S wing to the Granite tonight. It should help protecting the body.
View attachment 111881

Looks great, I would like to do that. What additional parts did you use?

 

[arrmadillo]

I like the Granite with a wing, wonder why Arrma doesn't include one, most do.

 

[FlipSide]

Looks great, I would like to do that. What additional parts did you use?

Thanks!

Wing Outcast 4S AR480013
Wing mount Outcast 4S AR320455

You also need to drill the body post mount and trim the body around the wing mount.

Without wing, the rear end of the body gets beaten up too much. The wing should help protecting the body.

 

[Big_Granite_Rock]

Thanks!

Wing Outcast 4S AR480013
Wing mount Outcast 4S AR320455

You also need to drill the body post mount and trim the body around the wing mount.

Without wing, the rear end of the body gets beaten up too much. The wing should help protecting the body.

Thank you, that is what I would like to fix. I am going to do the same on my sons big rock also.

 

[FlipSide]

View attachment 113778
Thank you, that is what I would like to fix. I am going to do the same on my sons big rock also.

If you need a video tutorial on how.to do it:

 

[RCBro80]

I've spent a bit of time comparing the exploded view drawings, and I'm wondering if you know the difference between the diffs? It appears that both the Mega and the BLX have the metal diff outdrives (AR310775), but the BLX diff case has a different part number (AR310872) from the Mega (AR310802), but both are composite plastic still. Is this an upgrade that I can skip?

Have you had any issues with the plastic wheel hexes when running on 3S?

 

[FlipSide]

I've spent a bit of time comparing the exploded view drawings, and I'm wondering if you know the difference between the diffs? It appears that both the Mega and the BLX have the metal diff outdrives (AR310775), but the BLX diff case has a different part number (AR310872) from the Mega (AR310802), but both are composite plastic still. Is this an upgrade that I can skip?

Have you had any issues with the plastic wheel hexes when running on 3S?

I have not investigated (yet) the differences between the Mega and 3S diffs. I just installed the 3S diffes along with the 3S power system. I know the mega diffs are grease filled and the 3S have silicon diff fluid. The number of teeth and pitch of the crown ring and input gear are different iirc. It is possible that the gears inside the diffs are the same. I´ll need to check this out and I’ll report here if I find anything.

No issue with the plastic hexes on 3S yet. I deliberatly left them there as an experiment. The car get mainly driven on loose and sandy surfaces, so I guess it’s not too hard on the hexes. I´d be more concerned if this car was driven a lot on concrete surfaces.

 

[RCBro80]

I have not investigated (yet) the differences between the Mega and 3S diffs. I just installed the 3S diffes along with the 3S power system. I know the mega diffs are grease filled and the 3S have silicon diff fluid. The number of teeth and pitch of the crown ring and input gear are different iirc. It is possible that the gears inside the diffs are the same. I´ll need to check this out and I’ll report here if I find anything.

No issue with the plastic hexes on 3S yet. I deliberatly left them there as an experiment. The car get mainly driven on loose and sandy surfaces, so I guess it’s not too hard on the hexes. I´d be more concerned if this car was driven a lot on concrete surfaces.

Good call, that makes sense about the pitch difference. Also it looks like the o-rings are different, probably because of the oil vs grease, as you mentioned.

 

[FlipSide]

@Orebro80 : I just checked the part numbers
- The metal gears inside the diffs are the same for the V2 Mega and V3 3S.
- The diff cup, diff cover and gasket are different.
- The o-rings are different.
- Both use the same shims, but there is one (AR709052) that is not positioned at the same place.

Basically, my understanding is that you can use the Mega diff gears, shims and pins in a 3S diff, but that's it.

If you want to use the Mega diffs on 3S, it will work, but expect to snap the stock input gears rapidly and probably strip the Mega diff case. The larger teeth of the the 3S has probably been chosen to deal with the higher power. 2S with the Mega diff cups would probably be safer.

 

[RCBro80]

@Orebro80 : I just checked the part numbers
- The metal gears inside the diffs are the same for the V2 Mega and V3 3S.
- The diff cup, diff cover and gasket are different.
- The o-rings are different.
- Both use the same shims, but there is one (AR709052) that is not positioned at the same place.

Basically, my understanding is that you can use the Mega diff gears, shims and pins in a 3S diff, but that's it.

If you want to use the Mega diffs on 3S, it will work, but expect to snap the stock input gears rapidly and probably strip the Mega diff case. The larger teeth of the the 3S has probably been chosen to deal with the higher power. 2S with the Mega diff cups would probably be safer.

Thank you so much for researching! That's so helpful! It's good to know which parts will be useful as spares.

 

[FlipSide]

Thank you so much for researching! That's so helpful! It's good to know which parts will be useful as spares.

No problem, this is something I wanted to check out anyway. You just pushed me to check it out sooner!