My OCD Tear Down List; hand scrubbing each individual screw 👍

[MrWednesday]

TLDR: I’m a serial killer
Doing a 100% teardown on my MBX8TR eco. Please tell me if I’m neglecting something:

I feel like I get a bit ridiculous, I start by taking the set screws out of the sway bar mounts, every single thing is completely disassembled except the receiver.

1. I strip down the servo, make sure all the dentistry looks sharp.​
2. The ESC (XR8 Plus G2S) gets dissected replace fan is necessary.​
3. I take the motor (Xerun 2200 G3) apart completely.​
4. Obviously I do all the bearings very thoroughly​
5. Clean all the plastic with car wash soap, put it all in a WD-40 bath for about a week. Then I take all those parts and I hand clean every single GD one with Cleano aviation grade degreaser (no VOCs). Following that I use 210 aviation plastic cleaner and polisher on them.​
6. For the body I use Rejex soil barrier.​
7. I replace any wires that don’t look perfect as well as battery connectors.​
8. Shocks gets fully disassembled, I usually save the silicone if it’s clean, but I inspect every single part. Springs get tested with a micrometer and a digital scale, usually get replaced because they’re pretty cheap and I have a stockpile of new ones since I have other older Mugen Truggies. if they’re still firm they get cleaned with a wire brush.​
9. Differentials are completely torn appart, gears and shims scrubbed clean, old silicone discarded and replaced​
10. Sand and polish sway bars​
11. I put all the screws from the entire truck in a solvent bath and then clean them one at a time by putting them on the end of a drill and spinning them against a wire brush then a linen cloth. I mean if I’m going to clean every screw hole with a pipe cleaner there’s no sense putting dirty screws back in… right ? I can’t be the only one that does this specific part right boys?​
12. I use dry chain lube all over the exposed drive train where friction of any kind occurs, as well as pillow balls. This is a step I do about an hour before every single run as well.​

Best part is, I barely even notice a difference n performance after doing all that because I’m inexperienced and a shït driver. Good thing is I only really drive my RCs like once every few weeks so I don’t have to do this more than 2-3 times a year I figure.

 

[Saladshooter]

OCD yes..... You are a perfect fit for Arrma Forum.

 

[Xash]

You could remove the anodizing from each screw and anodize them again so they actually look new. I mean, just to be perfect.

 

[SrC]

I applaud the detail.
However, I go the extra mile and disassemble my Receivers case and use Silicone Conformal coating on the RX's PCB. Making it both WP and minimizing potential vibration damage.
This stuff is a staple RC item for me.
I just re upped some more, off AMZ. It's worked well for me over the years.

 

[Notorious J]

TLDR: I’m a serial killer
Doing a 100% teardown on my MBX8TR eco. Please tell me if I’m neglecting something:

I feel like I get a bit ridiculous, I start by taking the set screws out of the sway bar mounts, every single thing is completely disassembled except the receiver.

1. I strip down the servo, make sure all the dentistry looks sharp.​
2. The ESC (XR8 Plus G2S) gets dissected replace fan is necessary.​
3. I take the motor (Xerun 2200 G3) apart completely.​
4. Obviously I do all the bearings very thoroughly​
5. Clean all the plastic with car wash soap, put it all in a WD-40 bath for about a week. Then I take all those parts and I hand clean every single GD one with Cleano aviation grade degreaser (no VOCs). Following that I use 210 aviation plastic cleaner and polisher on them.​
6. For the body I use Rejex soil barrier.​
7. I replace any wires that don’t look perfect as well as battery connectors.​
8. Shocks gets fully disassembled, I usually save the silicone if it’s clean, but I inspect every single part. Springs get tested with a micrometer and a digital scale, usually get replaced because they’re pretty cheap and I have a stockpile of new ones since I have other older Mugen Truggies. if they’re still firm they get cleaned with a wire brush.​
9. Differentials are completely torn appart, gears and shims scrubbed clean, old silicone discarded and replaced​
10. Sand and polish sway bars​
11. I put all the screws from the entire truck in a solvent bath and then clean them one at a time by putting them on the end of a drill and spinning them against a wire brush then a linen cloth. I mean if I’m going to clean every screw hole with a pipe cleaner there’s no sense putting dirty screws back in… right ? I can’t be the only one that does this specific part right boys?​
12. I use dry chain lube all over the exposed drive train where friction of any kind occurs, as well as pillow balls. This is a step I do about an hour before every single run as well.​

Best part is, I barely even notice a difference n performance after doing all that because I’m inexperienced and a shït driver. Good thing is I only really drive my RCs like once every few weeks so I don’t have to do this more than 2-3 times a year I figure.

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So I guess my "wipe the bearings with an old paper towel and call it a day" system, probably doesn't hold up. Oh, and I bash in snow and slush all the time during winter. On those days, I might rinse the area near the wheels off in the laundry sink and let it drip dry. Funny how there's crunchy noises in the moving parts after, but I'm sure it will be fine.

 

[Johnny b]

.......ok..lets recap..Notorious J is normal. SrC and Mr. Wednesday are sick and need chemical intervention.

 

[Mike'sGN-Kraton]

My last couple builds I've re-treated every screw... wire wheel head, heat quickly with torch, and drop into some motor oil... looks beautiful when done. And will take a long for it to look crappy and rust!!!... Mike

 

[Johnny b]

My last couple builds I've re-treated every screw... wire wheel head, heat quickly with torch, and drop into some motor oil... looks beautiful when done. And will take a long for it to look crappy and rust!!!... Mike

Didn't mean to exclude you. Your sick also.

 

[Saladshooter]

.......ok..lets recap..Notorious J is normal. SrC and Mr. Wednesday are sick and need chemical intervention

Modern medicine works wonders..... we will have them staring off into space and drooling on themselves in no time..........ohh too late.

 

[MrWednesday]

I forgot to include the drive shafts, they all get 1000 grit sand papered to look brand new

 

[332_RC]

Damn. I thought I went to extremes obsessing about this one F center diff bearing in the K6 that I listened to at the top of the aluminum cover with a screwdriver (not the drink) stuck to my ear to listen to its horrible noise it emits. Going back & forth between it & the diff inputs trying to figure which one it is. It's the center. I can hear it.
So clean it, brother!

 

[SrC]

I am the same way. Polish the shafts and all.
Dry wax lube on the bone ends pins and cups, etc. Every single brand new BB, into my Ultrasonic bath, repacked with syn grease. Yet honestly once all setup and running I don't fuss any more. I don't even meticulously clean anything, until it gets rebuilt again. Which is for quite some while. They just keep running flawlessly.

 

[MrWednesday]

You could remove the anodizing from each screw and anodize them again so they actually look new. I mean, just to be perfect.

Touché

 

[Johnny b]

I forgot to include the drive shafts, they all get 1000 grit sand papered to look brand new

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Curious as to how you clean the sandpaper after use?

 

[MrWednesday]

I applaud the detail.
However, I go the extra mile and disassemble my Receivers case and use Silicone Conformal coating on the RX's PCB. Making it both WP and minimizing potential vibration damage.
This stuff is a staple RC item for me.
I just re upped some more, off AMZ. It's worked well for me over the years.

View attachment 343184

Ok this is definitely getting added, I knew I’d find someone more demented than me here I wonder if I could use this on my XR8 to at least water “protect” it. I know there’s some guides out there on how to actually waterproof it.

So I guess my "wipe the bearings with an old paper towel and call it a day" system, probably doesn't hold up. Oh, and I bash in snow and slush all the time during winter. On those days, I might rinse the area near the wheels off in the laundry sink and let it drip dry. Funny how there's crunchy noises in the moving parts after, but I'm sure it will be fine.

I both fully respect and am envious of this method of executing the hobby. I bet your drive/wrech ratio is the exact opposite of mine

My last couple builds I've re-treated every screw... wire wheel head, heat quickly with torch, and drop into some motor oil... looks beautiful when done. And will take a long for it to look crappy and rust!!!... Mike

Please… tell me more, it’s not too late for this teardown!

 

[SrC]

Touché

Meaning the Black Oxide screw Coating....

 

[MrWednesday]

I am the same way. Polish the shafts and all.
Dry wax lube on the bone ends pins and cups, etc. Every single brand new BB, into my Ultrasonic bath, repacked with syn grease. Yet honestly once all setup and running I don't fuss any more. I don't even meticulously clean anything, until it gets rebuilt again. Which is for quite some while. They just keep running flawlessly.

Where does one acquire an ultrasonic bath? I must have this, I use a fkn toothbrush, degreaser, then dishsoap and toothbrush again, I spin those lil fkrs and scrug some more, then I blast em with high pressure water jet, then I force the water out w WD, then I blast that sht out with a compressor, then I clean the rings in more WD and then finally lube em and cap em. It’s particularly hard with hybrid bearings like the ones used by Mugen.

 

[SrC]

I forgot to include the drive shafts, they all get 1000 grit sand papered to look brand new

View attachment 343187

I mount my shafts in a drill and use 1k grit paper along with Jewelers Rouge. Till they shine like Chrome. CVD barrels and pins cleaned and dipped in Dry wax lube....

 

[MrWednesday]

Meaning the Black Oxide screw Coating....

So do I do this or the heat treating Mike suggests hmmm

I mount my shafts in a drill and use 1k grit paper along with Jewelers Rouge. Till they shine like Chrome. CVD barrels and pins cleaned and dipped in Dry wax lube....

Oh ya, well I also dry lube the bearings outer rings in case by some miracle they seize up, the mass rotating won’t cause as much heat/damage

 

[Notorious J]

I both fully respect and am envious of this method of executing the hobby. I bet your drive/wrech ratio is the exact opposite of mine

Actually, our ratios are probably the same. I take a lot of extra time replacing damaged parts because I don't maintain them properly. Now when I say properly, I'm not exactly referring to the @MrWednesday treatment, but I could stand to spend a bit more time cleaning than I actually do. But then again, that wouldn't be very Notorious J of me, would it.

Where does one acquire an ultrasonic bath? I must have this, I use a fkn toothbrush, degreaser, then dishsoap and toothbrush again, I spin those lil fkrs and scrug some more, then I blast em with high pressure water jet, then I force the water out w WD, then I blast that sht out with a compressor, then I clean the rings in more WD and then finally lube em and cap em. It’s particularly hard with hybrid bearings like the ones used by Mugen.

Ultrasonic cleaners can be found on Amazon or your local Bed, Bath and Beyond type store. The key to them working properly is the detergent solution used. I'm too cheap to buy the good stuff, so my hardware always came out looking the same way it went in. Interested in buying a hardly used one?