My OCD Tear Down List; hand scrubbing each individual screw 👍

[MrWednesday]

Actually, our ratios are probably the same. I take a lot of extra time replacing damaged parts because I don't maintain them properly. Now when I say properly, I'm not exactly referring to the @MrWednesday treatment, but I could stand to spend a bit more time cleaning than I actually do. But then again, that wouldn't be very Notorious J of me, would it.

Ultrasonic cleaners can be found on Amazon or your local Bed, Bath and Beyond type store. The key to them working properly is the detergent solution used. I'm too cheap to buy the good stuff, so my hardware always came out looking the same way it went in. Interested in buying a hardly used one?

If shipping to Canada makes sense… I’m in Southern Ontario, a little closer to Niagara Falls than Toronto.

Actually, our ratios are probably the same. I take a lot of extra time replacing damaged parts because I don't maintain them properly. Now when I say properly, I'm not exactly referring to the @MrWednesday treatment, but I could stand to spend a bit more time cleaning than I actually do. But then again, that wouldn't be very Notorious J of me, would it.

Ultrasonic cleaners can be found on Amazon or your local Bed, Bath and Beyond type store. The key to them working properly is the detergent solution used. I'm too cheap to buy the good stuff, so my hardware always came out looking the same way it went in. Interested in buying a hardly used one?

I feel like I buy used rigs off guys exactly like you all the time lol, I like a challenge

 

[Notorious J]

If shipping to Canada makes sense… I’m in Southern Ontario, a little closer to Niagara Falls than Toronto.

I feel like I buy used rigs off guys exactly like you all the time lol, I like a challenge

Well your in luck. I'm just up the highway north of Toronto. Not only will I give you the ultrasonic cleaner if you show up, I'll give you the grand tour of Notorious J studios! Yes, it's a tiny corner of my basement, but it feels like Hollywood to me.

 

[SrC]

Simple green or any Degreaser is fine. The trick is turning up the heat Temp on the U Sonic bath. And don't over do the timer. With BB's and Anodized Parts etc. The cavitation can cause damage to the surface of the parts Aestetically.
Heat treating by itself does nothing to prevent rust unless quenched in oil. Oxide Coatings will always prevent rust.

 

[332_RC]

Actually, our ratios are probably the same. I take a lot of extra time replacing damaged parts because I don't maintain them properly. Now when I say properly, I'm not exactly referring to the @MrWednesday treatment, but I could stand to spend a bit more time cleaning than I actually do. But then again, that wouldn't be very Notorious J of me, would it.

Ultrasonic cleaners can be found on Amazon or your local Bed, Bath and Beyond type store. The key to them working properly is the detergent solution used. I'm too cheap to buy the good stuff, so my hardware always came out looking the same way it went in. Interested in buying a hardly used one?

Cow performance has a ultrasonic cleaner.

 

[Mike'sGN-Kraton]

Pics never loaded I guess? A before and after...

 

[Doom!]

TLDR: I’m a serial killer
Doing a 100% teardown on my MBX8TR eco. Please tell me if I’m neglecting something:

I feel like I get a bit ridiculous, I start by taking the set screws out of the sway bar mounts, every single thing is completely disassembled except the receiver.

1. I strip down the servo, make sure all the dentistry looks sharp.​
2. The ESC (XR8 Plus G2S) gets dissected replace fan is necessary.​
3. I take the motor (Xerun 2200 G3) apart completely.​
4. Obviously I do all the bearings very thoroughly​
5. Clean all the plastic with car wash soap, put it all in a WD-40 bath for about a week. Then I take all those parts and I hand clean every single GD one with Cleano aviation grade degreaser (no VOCs). Following that I use 210 aviation plastic cleaner and polisher on them.​
6. For the body I use Rejex soil barrier.​
7. I replace any wires that don’t look perfect as well as battery connectors.​
8. Shocks gets fully disassembled, I usually save the silicone if it’s clean, but I inspect every single part. Springs get tested with a micrometer and a digital scale, usually get replaced because they’re pretty cheap and I have a stockpile of new ones since I have other older Mugen Truggies. if they’re still firm they get cleaned with a wire brush.​
9. Differentials are completely torn appart, gears and shims scrubbed clean, old silicone discarded and replaced​
10. Sand and polish sway bars​
11. I put all the screws from the entire truck in a solvent bath and then clean them one at a time by putting them on the end of a drill and spinning them against a wire brush then a linen cloth. I mean if I’m going to clean every screw hole with a pipe cleaner there’s no sense putting dirty screws back in… right ? I can’t be the only one that does this specific part right boys?​
12. I use dry chain lube all over the exposed drive train where friction of any kind occurs, as well as pillow balls. This is a step I do about an hour before every single run as well.​

Best part is, I barely even notice a difference n performance after doing all that because I’m inexperienced and a shït driver. Good thing is I only really drive my RCs like once every few weeks so I don’t have to do this more than 2-3 times a year I figure.

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Did you remember to move the couch cushions, and vacuum out all the popcorn.

 

[gotnitro]

TLDR: I’m a serial killer
Doing a 100% teardown on my MBX8TR eco. Please tell me if I’m neglecting something:

I feel like I get a bit ridiculous, I start by taking the set screws out of the sway bar mounts, every single thing is completely disassembled except the receiver.

1. I strip down the servo, make sure all the dentistry looks sharp.​
2. The ESC (XR8 Plus G2S) gets dissected replace fan is necessary.​
3. I take the motor (Xerun 2200 G3) apart completely.​
4. Obviously I do all the bearings very thoroughly​
5. Clean all the plastic with car wash soap, put it all in a WD-40 bath for about a week. Then I take all those parts and I hand clean every single GD one with Cleano aviation grade degreaser (no VOCs). Following that I use 210 aviation plastic cleaner and polisher on them.​
6. For the body I use Rejex soil barrier.​
7. I replace any wires that don’t look perfect as well as battery connectors.​
8. Shocks gets fully disassembled, I usually save the silicone if it’s clean, but I inspect every single part. Springs get tested with a micrometer and a digital scale, usually get replaced because they’re pretty cheap and I have a stockpile of new ones since I have other older Mugen Truggies. if they’re still firm they get cleaned with a wire brush.​
9. Differentials are completely torn appart, gears and shims scrubbed clean, old silicone discarded and replaced​
10. Sand and polish sway bars​
11. I put all the screws from the entire truck in a solvent bath and then clean them one at a time by putting them on the end of a drill and spinning them against a wire brush then a linen cloth. I mean if I’m going to clean every screw hole with a pipe cleaner there’s no sense putting dirty screws back in… right ? I can’t be the only one that does this specific part right boys?​
12. I use dry chain lube all over the exposed drive train where friction of any kind occurs, as well as pillow balls. This is a step I do about an hour before every single run as well.​

Best part is, I barely even notice a difference n performance after doing all that because I’m inexperienced and a shït driver. Good thing is I only really drive my RCs like once every few weeks so I don’t have to do this more than 2-3 times a year I figure.

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I was like yes! Ooohhh yeah! Give it to me baby! Then the last paragraph: “Because I’m inexperienced and a sh!T driver”

I was sold you were 100% Racer.

 

[SrC]

Cow performance has a ultrasonic cleaner.

What doesn't Cow sell these days???
An AMZ 2 liter sized "heated" U. Sonic cleaner with Analog dials are the best and cheapest. The Digital display ones crap out quick according to many reviews. Using Hot water from the tap gives with the detergent in the U. Sonic give cleaning a head start. Internal heater works less hard. So the U.S. Transducer works better. It's best to let the U.Sonic bath with solution alone, Running for 5 -10 min before placing parts inside. Best and even cleaning results this way. Always follow up with a clean cool water rinse bath cycle for like 5 min.

 

[332_RC]

What doesn't Cow sell these days???
An AMZ 2 liter sized "heated" U. Sonic cleaner with Analog dials are the best and cheapest. The Digital display ones crap out quick according to many reviews. Using Hot water from the tap gives with the detergent in the U. Sonic give cleaning a head start. Internal heater works less hard. So the U.S. Transducer works better. It's best to let the U.Sonic bath with solution alone, Running for 5 -10 min before placing parts inside. Best and even cleaning results this way. Always follow up with a clean cool water rinse bath cycle for like 5 min.

Cash Cow

 

[SrC]

Pics never loaded I guess? A before and after...View attachment 343202View attachment 343203

I find White Vinegar is cheap and best for soaking rusted parts. Usually for 24-48 hours, shaking every so often in a sealed container. Rinse well with warm water. Then dry them with a heat gun, so they wont get surface rusting again. My friend did his 59 Vette. He would give me batches of hardware bolts etc. And I restored them perfectly this way. He sent them out to get oxide coated. It is very hard to source "Correct hardware" with OE stampings for vintage cars.

 

[SrC]

Don't forget to spin up your Hinge pins and Shock shafts in a drill with polish as well.

 

[MrWednesday]

I was like yes! Ooohhh yeah! Give it to me baby! Then the last paragraph: “Because I’m inexperienced and a sh!T driver”

I was sold you were 100% Racer.

That’s the joke, like wtf do I even have an MBX8TR Eco with XR8 Plus Xerun brushless combo, I also have a Protek 370TBL servo and 6800mAh graphene HV shorty pack. For radio I finally just got rid of my bullshit DX5C and ordered a Sanwa M17/ RX-493 with from my LHS. The kind of driving skill required to unlock the true potential of this truck is definitely way wayyy beyond me… for now. Hoping to start racing this spring. Gotta start somewhere, right?

 

[MrWednesday]

Don't forget to spin up your Hinge pins and Shock shafts in a drill with polish as well.

It’s actually hilarious that you said that because the reason I just signed on was to include those details and include turnbuckles, shock boot replacements and turnbuckles ends if there’s any play in the bells. I had to replace 2 ends and both rear hub carriers this time. Too much slop for a race truggy. Gotta be tight as a nun’s lips.