Typhon My TLR Tuned Typhon Build

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Engineer

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Arrma RC's
  1. Voltage
When the TLR Tuned Typhon (TLRT) made it's appearance, I thought long and hard about it. I have zero opportunities to be involved with eBuggy racing with no tracks around me nor any friends that are interested in racing informally. For me, the TLRT was a great opportunity to try to build something that resembled a race buggy while maintaining compatibility with the slew of Arrma spare parts that I have as well as knowledge on how to work on the Arrma 6s line of vehicles.

So the TLRT was ordered and delivered soon after. I wanted to keep this a 4S build using a sensored motor and went with the following components:

ESC: Hobbywing XR8 Pro
Motor: Hobbywing XERun 4268 SDS G3 1900kV
Servo: Generic DS3225 25kg 180 degree servo
Receiver: Spektrum SR315
Other bits: m2c racing ESC plate, BQ CF top plate, BQ CF steering block arms

01.jpg


I started stripping down the steering and was pleasantly surprised to see that the steering arms already had bearings on them instead of bushings:

TLRTBearingPic.jpg


Here are weight comparisons between the BQ CF parts and the factory aluminum pieces:

CF_Top Plate.jpg


CF_Steering.jpg


Unfortunately, the location of the front brace hole on the top plate was not correctly placed and with the brace secured to the hole, it would rub against the driveshaft - so I did have to drill another hole to properly fit the front chassis brace.

The steering arm comes mounted on a V4 steering tube but does come with an EXB extra hard spring. I decided to change it out for a V3 steering tube so I could have some adjustability on the spring tension. I also swapped the servo arm out for a 25T one:

Steering.jpg


To might the ESC, I decided to use the m2c mount and give up some weight here. The XR8 Pro has an aluminum case and I figured the aluminum mounting plate could serve as a nice heatsink for it. So I drilled out the holes, brushed some thermal compound on the bottom of the ESC and used longer M2 screws (M2x16) to secure the ESC to the plate:

ESC_HS.jpg


For the diffs, I swapped the center spur gear for a 44T from a Felony/Infraction and left the center fluid at 10K. For the front diff, the fluid was left at 7K and for the rear diff, the fluid was changed to somewhere around 4-5K. The hobby shop only had 4K so I left some of the 7K in there and filled it with 4K. I also shimmed all the diffs using Mugen E0206 shims.

I swapped the tires out for a set of Duratrax SpeedTreads Double Barrel 1:8 buggy tires. The compound feels softer than the stock tires and weigh about 10 grams less:

Tires.jpg


I added a few more things like an RPM rear chassis skid plate, some enclosed wheel nuts (hate picking dirt out of the grub screw), swapped the droop screws for Tekno droop screws and put a piece of silicone tubing across the front shock tower to help protect it from being gouged in a rollover.

Comparing it on the scale to my basher Typhon with an m2c chassis and brace:

TLRT vs m2c.jpg


So that's it for now. I might clean up the battery tray and take off the riser cap on the front to shave a few ounces and see where else I can save a little more weight. But here she is as completed:

TLRT_photo.jpg


TLRT_photo2.jpg


TLRT_photo3.jpg


Update: Painted up a Pro-Line Axis body in Metallic Purple for the TLR Typhon:

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@Engineer, great build. You inspired me. :)
And Ty for the kick in the butt to pull the plug on the TLRT. It was a no brainer. Never had a buggy in all my years.
Looking forward to mine.
Seems this TLRT is a sleeper. It wasn't hyped to all heck. And easily purchased since its recent release, unlike other past Arrma releases.
 
TLRT makes for a great Speed Runner platform if you are not into the Race Setup thing.
I just wouldn't advise it as a big air basher. V5 Typhon RTR is much better suited for this.
Just me.
 
TLRT makes for a great Speed Runner platform if you are not into the Race Setup thing.
I just wouldn't advise it as a big air basher. V5 Typhon RTR is much better suited for this.
Just me.
My only concern with big air bashing the TLRT would be the pill inserts, but as long as they aren't made of cheap crappy plastic they should hold up just fine. You have to remember that the rtr has plastic and 6065 aluminum in places the TLRT has 7075. I am willing to bet the TLRT would work just fine for big air just toss on any of the aftermarket aluminum chassis braces and send it. Also the TLRT has less mass, less mass equals less force upon impact.
 
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I'm not sure if it was JayTee or another, a hingepin bent almost 90 degrees near the pill running a track, hitting a board or something or bad jump. All he needed was a hingepin. The Pill and Block were fine. No hinge pins or much of any TLR parts are available yet for the TLRT, so he sourced an Associated buggy hinge pin that fit perfect there at the track. Not quite sure who it was.
If I find the video I will post it.
 
View attachment 171611



Unfortunately, the location of the front brace hole on the top plate was not correctly placed and with the brace secured to the hole, it would rub against the driveshaft - so I did have to drill another hole to properly fit the front chassis brace.
@Engineer ....
I'm sure you can just flip that top plate over, that's why it has two holes in it one 3mm and one 4mm.
If you use the wrong one it will make the shaft rub..!!😉👍🏼 (don't ask me how I know this 🤣🤣)
 
@Engineer ....
I'm sure you can just flip that top plate over, that's why it has two holes in it one 3mm and one 4mm.
If you use the wrong one it will make the shaft rub..!!😉👍🏼 (don't ask me how I know this 🤣🤣)

I wish that was the case. Take a look at how far off the holes are. I suppose I could have flipped it over and used the M4 hole with an appropriate washer but at the point I was, it was easier to just drill a new hole. This is the second time I’ve run into fitment/QC issues with BQ stuff.

32B7AD2E-635A-42DE-9D22-FE6C8DA417F3.webp
 
Been holding off on picking up the TLR Tuned Typhon. I need to finish the Mojave exb first. I'll just order the Hobbywing XR8 Pro combo first.
 
I'm running the TLRT with Duratrax Lockup tires, handles like a dream and is very balanced in the air.

Pulled the electronics from an old Thunder Tiger Bushmaster, 4S runs great in this car!
 
This is a brilliant build!

Lots of clear and useful information.
Lots of great photos and you have done an excellent job selecting good parts to make the car super nice.
I love how clean and simple you have built it.

Your car looks amazing and you have done a great job with it!
 
I'm not sure if it was JayTee or another, a hingepin bent almost 90 degrees near the pill running a track, hitting a board or something or bad jump. All he needed was a hingepin. The Pill and Block were fine. No hinge pins or much of any TLR parts are available yet for the TLRT, so he sourced an Associated buggy hinge pin that fit perfect there at the track. Not quite sure who it was.
If I find the video I will post it.

Do you happen to know what hinge pin he used or a link to video?


EDIT: nvm I found it.

Incase anyone else ends up needing this info its the hinge pin from rc8
 
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Do you happen to know what hinge pin he used or a link to video?


EDIT: nvm I found it.

Incase anyone else ends up needing this info its the hinge pin from rc8
Awesome. Good find.
All I remembered is that it was a TA part he used. ( RC8)
https://www.associatedelectrics.com/teamassociated/parts/details/81060-ASC81060-rc8b3_hinge_pin_set/
Need to buy the whole TA set of them. No dimensions listed. Maybe also need to be cut down ( IDK) and edge rounded and polished as not to damage/cut into the Pill inserts.
TLRT pin is 4mm diam. Im sure any longer 4mm hinge pin will work if you cut to length, in a pinch. The longer RTR Typhon lower hinge pins are available and also 4mm and can be cut down as one alternative. Again, important to just round out and smoothen the cut edge well enough.
Yeah, unfortunately all the unique TLR Typhon parts are still on Pre-order status. The slow boats are a no show.:rolleyes:
So if you break any of your TLRT parts, you are pretty much SOL at this time.:cool:
Myself included.:LOL:
There is always JennysRC.
But the Hinge pins are not sold separately.
https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...ttery-tray-suspension-and-wing-mounts-ara8306

I wonder how much 4mm Tool Steel stock would cost.:unsure:
 
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Awesome. Good find.
All I remembered is that it was a TA part he used. ( RC8)
https://www.associatedelectrics.com/teamassociated/parts/details/81060-ASC81060-rc8b3_hinge_pin_set/
Need to buy the whole TA set of them. No dimensions listed. Maybe also need to be cut down ( IDK) and edge rounded and polished as not to damage/cut into the Pill inserts.
TLRT pin is 4mm diam. Im sure any longer 4mm hinge pin will work if you cut to length, in a pinch. The longer RTR Typhon lower hinge pins are available and also 4mm and can be cut down as one alternative. Again, important to just round out and smoothen the cut edge well enough.
Yeah, unfortunately all the unique TLR Typhon parts are still on Pre-order status. The slow boats are a no show.:rolleyes:
So if you break any of your TLRT parts, you are pretty much SOL at this time.:cool:
Myself included.:LOL:
There is always JennysRC.
But the Hinge pins are not sold separately.
https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...ttery-tray-suspension-and-wing-mounts-ara8306

I wonder how much 4mm Tool Steel stock would cost.:unsure:
The stock pins are 4x63.5mm while the rc8 pins are 4x65mm. I'm really hoping I don't have to do anything to them as the less things for me to mess up the better. The Rc8 pins are also shorter than v5 typhon pins. I'm assuming the rc8 pins will fit without any modding as the guy in the video definitely didn't mention having to do anything of that. Watching the video I was under the impression he swap them out quick at the race but maybe I'm wrong.
 
I assumed the exact same as you. I thought it was a direct fit.
But it is common to cut them down. 4mm diam. Pins are common with 1/8 rigs across many brands
A 1.5 mm length difference is still enough that it may require some grinding down a bit for a nice fit. Not too tragic.
Just keep the end rounded and polished of any burrs and edges. The pills will take the hit other wise. The pills can be delicate and do wear out.
 
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