Nero problems

Smoothpaulie

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  1. Nero
Hi everyone
I'm just wondering if any one had the same problems I'm having with my nero.i purchase in October and due to work and weather iv Only got to run 5 time In them 5 runs(reality only half runs) iv had a diff outdrive break iv had a rear arm break found a tyre shreaded and most recently the drive at the wheel end of the shaft broke.my biggest concern really is that I haven't really put through any hard bashing no jumps wat so ever iv run on grit and clay.its a great truck I'd just like to go and drive with out anything breaking.if anyone has advice or gone through these problems please let me know
 

Afro Samurai

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  1. Nero
Hi everyone
I'm just wondering if any one had the same problems I'm having with my nero.i purchase in October and due to work and weather iv Only got to run 5 time In them 5 runs(reality only half runs) iv had a diff outdrive break iv had a rear arm break found a tyre shreaded and most recently the drive at the wheel end of the shaft broke.my biggest concern really is that I haven't really put through any hard bashing no jumps wat so ever iv run on grit and clay.its a great truck I'd just like to go and drive with out anything breaking.if anyone has advice or gone through these problems please let me know


hmmmm...is this with or without diff brain?
 

Smoothpaulie

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hmmmm...is this with or without diff brain?
This is with diff brain,it's my first monster truck and I bought it because all research said it's durable,iv been very careful on my runs as I'm getting use to its power this is why iv stuck to flat open areas
 

Afro Samurai

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This is with diff brain,it's my first monster truck and I bought it because all research said it's durable,iv been very careful on my runs as I'm getting use to its power this is why iv stuck to flat open areas

and are you following the rules on speeds in each of the diff lock positions?...meaning flat out fast high speed bashing and jumping should only be done with all diffs open...and if you are doing this with all diffs locked you are definitely headed for trouble...
 

Smoothpaulie

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and are you following the rules on speeds in each of the diff lock positions?...meaning flat out fast high speed bashing and jumping should only be done with all diffs open...and if you are doing this with all diffs locked you are definitely headed for trouble...
That must be my problem
As I said I'm just trying get a handle on it so I'm not doing any jumping,mainly straight line or some drifting on the gravel,any ideas of a good set of wheels that might limit ballooning
 

Afro Samurai

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That must be my problem
As I said I'm just trying get a handle on it so I'm not doing any jumping,mainly straight line or some drifting on the gravel,any ideas of a good set of wheels that might limit ballooning

no problem ..but yeah...for the most part. .locking any of the diffs requires a bit more reserved driving.. slightly less aggression with each diff locked..and all diffs lock at slow speeds only. ..drift mode...can be a bit faster...center diff only yet faster...all diffs open you can drive all out...

as far as balooning. there are a few other chats that cover this ..

get familiar with the manual...and have fun dude ....
 

Smoothpaulie

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no problem ..but yeah...for the most part. .locking any of the diffs requires a bit more reserved driving.. slightly less aggression with each diff locked..and all diffs lock at slow speeds only. ..drift mode...can be a bit faster...center diff only yet faster...all diffs open you can drive all out...

as far as balooning. there are a few other chats that cover this ..

get familiar with the manual...and have fun dude ....
Thanks very much for the advice very much appreciated,arrma have been very helpful in replacement parts,wen I get up and running again I'll let yous know how it goes
 

Aboulafia

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Just a little reminder of the use of diffential lock in general.

What is workind on RC is true on real car and vice versa.
I was piloting 4x4 (real) in trial for years and i only try to explain why you have differentail on car.

When you turn with a car, your external wheel do not go the same distance that the internal wheel (πD)

If you not driving on a slipery ground, you can imagine the contraints you create on the transmissions. The differential locked make the two wheel going at the same speed and make the go the same distance. More the tire adheres, more contraints on your transmission.
It's the best way to break a differential. This rule is true for the front/rear axles.

Now, from front and rear axles, what's happens ?

Same thing, the track of the two rear wheels is inside the two front wheels.
The rear ones go less distance from the front. If your 4 wheels give permanent traction you have a dyssymmetry of speed between front and rear axls you have a central differential or on no-permanent 4x4 you can unlock the front wheel.

The problem with 4x4 permanent, it is when you want to get through an obstacle, if only one wheel loose adhesion you stay here.

If you have a have a locked central diffentail you need two wheels, and with all diff. locked you continue to climb with only one wheel.

When you understand that, (rc or real car) you can use your lock diff. function at good used.

Normally a differential schould be locked only when it's really need (mud for example) otherwise on dry ground or road, if you use it when turning with your car, you will break all, rc or not.

Arrma can call the differential lock blast, wheely or something else, the rule is the same : never turn with your car with a differential locked on a not slipery surface.

I hope it's enough clear, english is not my native language.
 
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Stanleybb50

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Just a little reminder of the use of diffential lock in general.

What is workind on RC is true on real car and vice versa.
I was piloting 4x4 (real) in trial for years and i only try to explain why you have differentail on car.

When you turn with a car, your external wheel do not go the same distance that the internal wheel (πD)

If you not driving on a slipery ground, you can imagine the contraints you create on the transmissions. The differential locked make the two wheel going at the same speed and make the go the same distance. More the tire adheres, more contraints on your transmission.
It's the best way to break a differential. This rule is true for the front/rear axles.

Now, from front and rear axles, what's happens ?

Same thing, the track of the two rear wheels is inside the two front wheels.
The rear ones go less distance from the front. If your 4 wheels give permanent traction you have a dyssymmetry of speed between front and rear axls you have a central differential or on no-permanent 4x4 you can unlock the front wheel.

The problem with 4x4 permanent, it is when you want to get through an obstacle, if only one wheel loose adhesion you stay here.

If you have a have a locked central diffentail you need two wheels, and with all diff. locked you continue to climb with only one wheel.

When you understand that, (rc or real car) you can use your lock diff. function at good used.

Normally a differential schould be locked only when it's really need (mud for example) otherwise on dry ground or road, if you use it when turning with your car, you will break all, rc or not.

Arrma can call the differential lock blast, wheely or something else, the rule is the same : never turn with your car with a differential locked on a not slipery surface.

I hope it's enough clear, english is not my native language.
This is very well said actually. :)

Spot on really.
 
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