Notorious New owner... need suggestions on parts/hardware to keep in tool box

[jrcastro]

Just got a notorious and running 6s. Plan on doing some bashing.
Put in t-bone racing front bumper
Servo saver
rear mud guards
Planning on doing tower to tower bracing

What parts or hardware kit is needed to keep this on the road?
Or what common parts usually break so I can keep in my tool box.
Also, good online vendors on where to buy parts (stock/aftermarket)

Thanks in advance!

 

[The bashist]

Chassis braces fr and rr. Voltage hobby or HR. Shock towers rear, same vendors. Loctite is your friend. Check your hardware often,
Wing mount support, voltage hobby, gka. Open your diffs up and shim them. You will thank us later for that. The stock bearings are complete garbage once they get wet, replacement...fast Eddie or avid racing. All the aforementioned items I would replace as the break. Idk how you bash or on what terrain, but, I wouldn't just go putting all kinds of upgrades on until you find the weak spots that show themselves from how you bash. I do recommend tuning your diffs before you run it though. ?

 

[Lazy Bushman]

Welcome to forum. @The bashist +1

 

[Notorious J]

Chassis braces fr and rr. Voltage hobby or HR. Shock towers rear, same vendors. Loctite is your friend. Check your hardware often,
Wing mount support, voltage hobby, gka. Open your diffs up and shim them. You will thank us later for that. The stock bearings are complete garbage once they get wet, replacement...fast Eddie or avid racing. All the aforementioned items I would replace as the break. Idk how you bash or on what terrain, but, I wouldn't just go putting all kinds of upgrades on until you find the weak spots that show themselves from how you bash. I do recommend tuning your diffs before you run it though. ?

Welcome! What ^ said is a great start. Thread lock the servo saver too. You'll thank me later. Happy bashing!

 

[bicketybam]

I like to buy a few diffs (the rear/front) from Jenny’s RC and keep them as spares. You get the whole assembly including the pinion, bulkhead and cup. It’s a good deal.

 

[jrcastro]

Chassis braces fr and rr. Voltage hobby or HR. Shock towers rear, same vendors. Loctite is your friend. Check your hardware often,
Wing mount support, voltage hobby, gka. Open your diffs up and shim them. You will thank us later for that. The stock bearings are complete garbage once they get wet, replacement...fast Eddie or avid racing. All the aforementioned items I would replace as the break. Idk how you bash or on what terrain, but, I wouldn't just go putting all kinds of upgrades on until you find the weak spots that show themselves from how you bash. I do recommend tuning your diffs before you run it though. ?

Thanks for the info!

Any links on tuning diffs or shimming them?
Thickness gear oil for diffs?

Thanks again!

 

[WTF MIKE]

I use 200k centre 60k front 30k rear.
I would also keep a full set of rpm a arms and replace as they break. And rpm wing mount

 

[The bashist]

Thanks for the info!

Any links on tuning diffs or shimming them?
Thickness gear oil for diffs?

Thanks again!

 

[The bashist]

Sry bout the double ? to extreme is a great resource as well as rich duperbash, subscribe to their channels. Both are very informative about the ins and outs of these Arrma rigs.

 

[The bashist]

I hate auto correct

 

[olds97_lss]

Thanks for the info!

Any links on tuning diffs or shimming them?
Thickness gear oil for diffs?

Thanks again!

Shimming, lots of info here: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/how-to-shim-your-arrma-diff.5396/

I run 100/500/100 in my outcast and really like it.

Wouldn't hurt to have a spare bulkhead/diff on hand as a backup. Also shock ends, or upgrade to tekno ends as the arrma ones tend to egg out pretty quickly.

Tekno part numbers: TKR6140B and TKR5049A

I tried dubro on the front and tekno on the rear. Tekno's are easier, no shimming or modifying necessary. I only tried dubro's because my fronts were really bad and I had the dubro's on hand to try for another truck. I installed them and ordered tekno's, then replaced the ones on the rear with tekno's to see how they did in comparison over time. Both are holding up great.

Dubro's:

 

[jrcastro]

Are the tekno ends the bottom ends of the shocks?

 

[jrcastro]

The bashist,

Shimming and tuning the diffs seems a little intimidating.
Should I just switch from 6s to 4s batteries?
I hear I'll break less stuff with 4s.

 

[olds97_lss]

Are the tekno ends the bottom ends of the shocks?

Yep. The stock ones wear out/stretch pretty quick.

 

[The bashist]

The bashist,

Shimming and tuning the diffs seems a little intimidating.
Should I just switch from 6s to 4s batteries?
I hear I'll break less stuff with 4s.

4s is still definitely super fun. Won't have to watch your temps as much, but still keep an eye on them. As far as tuning diffs goes, it will help familiarize yourself with how your rig works. Makes it easier to spot a potential problem or fix an existing one. It is intimidating at first, but, tbh...its a surprisingly easy process. 6s is typically when you would want to stiffen up your driveline. Getting rid of any play/slop in the drivetrain, will prevent alot of different breakage overall. Also gives you the opportunity to select different diff fluids to adjust power transfer between the front and rear differentials. It all boils down to personal preference, and whether or not you can just go replace the whole rig when things break. Personally, I'm kind of a cheap ass, but at the same time, understanding that you get what you pay for. I hope this helps. ?

 

[babolimp]

tools:

• liquid super glue. the tyres will separate from the wheels so you need to re-glue them from time to time.
• electric drill + magnetic long hex bits (2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm). just makes life way easier when working on the car.
• blue threadlock. screws that vibrate and come loose should be threadlocked.
• something to elevate the car while you work on it. again, just a time saver. otherwise you have to remove the wheels everytime you work on the car. i use an old computer case.

spare parts (FYI - everything below i have had to replace 2x):

• shock ends. they can break if you crash or land awkwardly. AR330338
• front/rear diff. if you land at full speed (eg a standing back flip not done correctly) you can strip these gears. self righting the car will also contribute as you're going full speed while off the ground (super high wheel speed), then suddenly slam the brakes. AR220041
• main input gear. same issue as the above point. AR310498

recommended upgrades (in my opinion):

• black gorilla tape. cheap solution. line the inside of the body to strengthen it. otherwise the body will crack and frankly it's an expensive part to replace for what it is.
• RPM A arms. the front stock A arms aren't great and will snap with a bad landing. the RPM A arms (i only bothered getting the fronts) have some flex and have yet to break on me despite many bad landings.
• better servo + metal servo mount. for me, this is the car's only real let down. if you're happy with the steering, ignore this point. if you're unhappy with the steering, get a 6v servo with 30kg+ torque and a metal servo mount to hold it stable.

i would not bother with 4s. you've spent serious money on this rig. why gimp it? just learn some self control or turn down the max speed if you don't trust yourself yet.

 

[superticky]

When is a good time to check/replace bearings , shim diffs and change diff oil ? do you guys also shim center diff ?

I'm still running stock bearings, stock diff oil and no shimming. I wanted to get used to the truck first and learn few things before going with this.

I'm still running 4s also to get better at handling and make required upgrades to weak points before going 6s.

My other question was: for regular low straight jumps (no back-flips) in short grass, what's the best diff oil weight for front,center,back to keep the truck straight in the air ? I usually let go the throttle just before the truck takes off to keep it straight but still it's hard to keep it straight for longer distance, still not high jumps, just looking for distance more than high. I've seen many diff oil combinations 30k/60k for front or rear, 100k/200k for center, but I dunno what should I use for my case.

Thank you as always guys !!!

 

[Notorious J]

When is a good time to check/replace bearings , shim diffs and change diff oil ? do you guys also shim center diff ?

I'm still running stock bearings, stock diff oil and no shimming. I wanted to get used to the truck first and learn few things before going with this.

I'm still running 4s also to get better at handling and make required upgrades to weak points before going 6s.

My other question was: for regular low straight jumps (no back-flips) in short grass, what's the best diff oil weight for front,center,back to keep the truck straight in the air ? I usually let go the throttle just before the truck takes off to keep it straight but still it's hard to keep it straight for longer distance, still not high jumps, just looking for distance more than high. I've seen many diff oil combinations 30k/60k for front or rear, 100k/200k for center, but I dunno what should I use for my case.

Thank you as always guys !!!

You might want to get working on those difs and bearings right away. Many people have noted that the difs have come almost empty of fluid, new in the box. The seals are not perfect, and depending on how long the box was sitting, there's a good chance some of the fluid has leaked out. Taking the difs out to work on is very simple, so it's probably better you get on it before you do any real hard bashing. Stock fluids on a V3 are 10k/100k/10k. Almost everyone agrees that the weights should go up. The center dif seems to have the most variation in preference. 200k would be a good starting point, and you could switch moving forward if you still feel you're not getting the response you like. 500k and 1M are also options, but you might want to start at 200k and work your way up. 60k/30k f/r also seems to be a fan favorite, but again, it's trial and error depending on how you drive. Shimming is also important, in that it creates a better connection of all dif components, including the out drives. Some of the V3 models have started to incorporate shims in the difs, but this is something you should check and test individually, for each dif. You might also consider changing the punch settings of your esc. Factory default is 4, but you can go as high as 9. This might help with throttle response while in the air. The stock bearings are metal shield, and unless you keep them super clean and lubed, they will start to bind quickly. A good set of rubber shielded replacements is a must, and know that most kits include four bearings to replace bushings in the steering posts as well.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

On 4s it is hard to break these trucks, but still, start thinking about that first diff service. Get your fluids and shims ordered, watch some ThomasP YouTube vids, and get some decent hex drivers. Plan on cracking them open before you are a dozen packs in. The good news is the Arrma 6s cars are super simple to work on, compared to most brands.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Double post.