Kraton Newbie's journey with a Kraton 4s

[ph47mf]

stupid question, do you put threadlock on the grub screw or actually on that metal sticking out of the motor or both?

 

[Dinomantar]

On the grub screw. Try to avoid getting it on the motor shaft but a little on there won't hurt it i don't think. Make sure you let the loctite cure for at least 24 hours before you drive it or it will just make it come loose faster.

 

[ph47mf]

When it comes to the time to change the pinion for whatever reason, how do you guys remove the TL?

 

[zizi8862]

stupid question, do you put threadlock on the grub screw or actually on that metal sticking out of the motor or both?

Blue loctite is perfect but remember to let it cure for 24 hours. I think that is the thing with RC trucks especially the more powerful ones, you never know what will go wrong but I find I have more fun tinkering than driving sometimes. Loctite the pinion and the slipper clutch and things shouldnt come loose again.

When it comes to the time to change the pinion for whatever reason, how do you guys remove the TL?

Blue TL comes off with a bit of careful turning, its usually red or orange that may require a bit of heat to loosen

 

[ph47mf]

Right a little update, what do I do when someone sold me a lemon? I give them even more money!

I walked into the shop with everything I bought and the guy took the car inside, put some TL on the grub screw and let it rip inside the place! I thought hang on aren't we supposed to wait 24 hours?! I asked him for a long term solution and he just said it's a fast car, it will come off again and it's not under warranty. Not very reassuring.

Anyway I bought another stick of 4s Lipo, exchanged a better charger (SkyRC D100), bought some tools, so far £600 spent, let's see how long this hobby will last. Anything else I need?

 

[zizi8862]

Right a little update, what do I do when someone sold me a lemon? I give them even more money!

I walked into the shop with everything I bought and the guy took the car inside, put some TL on the grub screw and let it rip inside the place! I thought hang on aren't we supposed to wait 24 hours?! I asked him for a long term solution and he just said it's a fast car, it will come off again and it's not under warranty. Not very reassuring.

Anyway I bought another stick of 4s Lipo, exchanged a better charger (SkyRC D100), bought some tools, so far £600 spent, let's see how long this hobby will last. Anything else I need?

I never buy Lipos from hobby stores as its always cheaper online by quite a far margin, even the skyrc d100 is cheaper off aliexpress. RPM A arms, fast freddy or Jims bearings, I bought HR pivot balls, a whole set of spare parts from Jennys, a flysky GT5 transmitter, HR shock bodies. Cant think of anything else. Did no one tell you RC trucks is a endless money pit.

 

[ph47mf]

Yeah I understand but I don't mind doing my bit to support my local RC shop, keep them going, being a newbie having a warranty backed up by a shop is quite important I find.

I managed a 30 min run just now, the pinion didn't come off, it did become unresponsive for about 20 seconds possibly due to overheating and the wheel flew off at the end. I managed to find the nut etc nearby.

However I lost the little metal (shown on the attached picture. Do I need that? My wheel seems to have gone back on fine.

 

[razorrc]

Yeah, you need that piece, it's what keeps the hex (AR310910) onto the axle.

 

[jondilly1974]

Yes you need the pin to hold the hex on.

 

[Surchaufeur]

It should not have come out the grub screw retaining the hex in place got loose and when the tire flew off the hex did too check for your hex grub screws if they are tight and put threadlock on them. And yes you definetly need that piece or its not going to run right and cause more damage a set of pins is like i think 5$?
Me being me each time i losed something i tried for an hour to find the part i lost even with a flashlight???. Always menaged to find what i lost once it was my wheel nut and one the pin like you showed put blue thread lock also on the wheel nut if they keep coming loose

 

[Dinomantar]

Yes those pins are crucial. There are several little pins that size in the drivetrain i don't know how they don't break. Drive it for a little and whatever breaks buy from Jennys rc on Ebay and it will usually come in a set of parts that you might not need yet but if you buy a few parts packages you will quickly have spares for a lot of parts. Probly get a bumper too the stock one is basically non-existent. If you like the truck and want to drive it a lot then upgrade the remote, the stx2 is pure garbage that could also be why it cut out. (Unless you got the stx3 i hear some newer arrmas come with that now)
PUT THREADLOCK ON EVERY METAL TO METAL CONNECTION. If you don't enjoy taking it apart and putting it back together you're gonna have a bad time. The more you do it the easier it gets.

 

[bicketybam]

Those pins break. Fact.

 

[Dinomantar]

Those pins break. Fact.

Lol. I haven't broken any of the ones that hold the hexs but every time i open a diff on my k6s there is at least one broken.

 

[bicketybam]

Lol. I haven't broken any of the ones that hold the hexs but every time i open a diff on my k6s there is at least one broken.

Opposite for me.

 

[razorrc]

Those pins break. Fact.

Maybe next time don't use an impact gun on your wheel nuts.

 

[ph47mf]

You guys have been a massive help thank you, if you don't mind I will keep asking through this thread instead of opening new ones.

I just ordered some more of those metal pins, a couple of nuts as spare, a 8mm nut driver (free plastic ones are destroyed already), a toolbox, medium strength threadlock, anything else you guys can think of that's MUST HAVE when you take it out for a bash?

After a run, if it's not too dirty I tend to just leave it on the stand. But if possible I'd like to spray it with something to keep it lubricated, I can see there's mixed feelings about WD40, how about GT85 or any other suggestions?

 

[jondilly1974]

You guys have been a massive help thank you, if you don't mind I will keep asking through this thread instead of opening new ones.

I just ordered some more of those metal pins, a couple of nuts as spare, a 8mm nut driver (free plastic ones are destroyed already), a toolbox, medium strength threadlock, anything else you guys can think of that's MUST HAVE when you take it out for a bash?

After a run, if it's not too dirty I tend to just leave it on the stand. But if possible I'd like to spray it with something to keep it lubricated, I can see there's mixed feelings about WD40, how about GT85 or any other suggestions?

I would use a silicone based spray over standard WD40. Some say it’s bad for rubber, so consider that when spraying tires. I still use it on mine, but figured it was best to pass along the note of caution.

Also, I don’t know if you’ve purchased a-arms yet or not, but the RPM arms are the ones you want to buy. The stock ones never last long.

If you lose another pin or nut, then consider the Hot Racing hexes next time. They use a standard 17mm nut instead of that dumb little 8mm flange nut.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Wd40 pnly on the plastics to make it a bit more flexible don't spray that on the driveshafts. Wd40 is not a lubricant but a water repealent

 

[ph47mf]

PUT THREADLOCK ON EVERY METAL TO METAL CONNECTION. If you don't enjoy taking it apart and putting it back together you're gonna have a bad time. The more you do it the easier it gets.

Got it thank you for the advice.

I do enjoy working on it, I actually liked taking that pinion out like i've achieved something

I just hoped my new car wouldn't develop issues so soon

I would use a silicone based spray over standard WD40. Some say it’s bad for rubber, so consider that when spraying tires. I still use it on mine, but figured it was best to pass along the note of caution.

Also, I don’t know if you’ve purchased a-arms yet or not, but the RPM arms are the ones you want to buy. The stock ones never last long.

If you lose another pin or nut, then consider the Hot Racing hexes next time. They use a standard 17mm nut instead of that dumb little 8mm flange nut.

I've had a look, this WD40 variation any better?

No, no spare arms yet but I will get the ones you mentioned thank you.

Ahhh...I wish you told me earlier about the 17mm nut because I just ordered the 8mm nut driver to work on it Think I'll stick some threadlock on it for the time being...

 

[jondilly1974]

Got it thank you for the advice.

I do enjoy working on it, I actually liked taking that pinion out like i've achieved something

I just hoped my new car wouldn't develop issues so soon





I've had a look, this WD40 variation any better?

No, no spare arms yet but I will get the ones you mentioned thank you.

Ahhh...I wish you told me earlier about the 17mm nut because I just ordered the 8mm nut driver to work on it Think I'll stick some threadlock on it for the time being...

Yep that’s the silicone stuff. ????