Kraton Newbie's journey with a Kraton 4s

[ph47mf]

Happy weekend guys! An opportunity to take it out again so got 2 Lipos charged - 1st issue - 5000mah 4S battery, I selected 5A charge rate but it would only charge at 3A once started, never really go above that, sound about right?

I ran it for 20 minutes, started losing power, thinking god damn it it must be the pinion again so I took it apart again and it's rock solid, the shop did a pretty good job with the TL then found the culprit to be the loose slipper clutch.

Basically I screwed it tight then loosen 1 but it came loose again. So I tried 1/2, 1/4 and still came loose after 10 minutes every time, in the end I couldn't be bothered anymore and just ran it sort of tight (stop as soon as I feel resistance) and that kept it going longer.

1) Can I carry on running like this without burning the car down?
2) If I were to take it apart and add TL to the slipper clutch, which part specifically do I apply to?

 

[Dinomantar]

I'm pretty sure it's only supposed to be 1/4 turn from all the way tight not 1/2 and definitely not 1. I haven't had this problem but I think you can put tl on the screw that you are tightening every time just not on the plates. Running it all the way tight isn't really a problem you just might strip the spur gear eventually, but it won't happen right away. You can also get a slipper clutch eliminator which has the same danger of stripping the spur but from my experience those gears are pretty tough.

 

[jondilly1974]

Happy weekend guys! An opportunity to take it out again so got 2 Lipos charged - 1st issue - 5000mah 4S battery, I selected 5A charge rate but it would only charge at 3A once started, never really go above that, sound about right?

I ran it for 20 minutes, started losing power, thinking god damn it it must be the pinion again so I took it apart again and it's rock solid, the shop did a pretty good job with the TL then found the culprit to be the loose slipper clutch.

Basically I screwed it tight then loosen 1 but it came loose again. So I tried 1/2, 1/4 and still came loose after 10 minutes every time, in the end I couldn't be bothered anymore and just ran it sort of tight (stop as soon as I feel resistance) and that kept it going longer.

1) Can I carry on running like this without burning the car down?
2) If I were to take it apart and add TL to the slipper clutch, which part specifically do I apply to?

View attachment 70909View attachment 70910View attachment 70911

 

[ph47mf]

Funny enough I just found that on YouTube as well thanks for the video, you need to make more!

 

[razorrc]

OK guys, IMO the correct way is --

Set your slipper to whatever you want it to be. Take a set of calipers and measure the depth of the screw. Write that down. I measured mine somewhere for the Kraton 4S and posted it.

Disassemble the slipper and remove the screw. Clean the threads with a wire brush to remove the old loctite. Motor spray it clean, let it air dry. Put a few drops of blue loctite on the threads of the screw near the end of the screw (not the head). Reassemble your slipper back to the depth you used before. Let it dry overnight.

Go drive the truck. You should be within 1/4 turn of where it needs to be, you can adjust a little bit.

 

[jondilly1974]

OK guys, IMO the correct way is --

Set your slipper to whatever you want it to be. Take a set of calipers and measure the depth of the screw. Write that down. I measured mine somewhere for the Kraton 4S and posted it.

Disassemble the slipper and remove the screw. Clean the threads with a wire brush to remove the old loctite. Motor spray it clean, let it air dry. Put a few drops of blue loctite on the threads of the screw near the end of the screw (not the head). Reassemble your slipper back to the depth you used before. Let it dry overnight.

Go drive the truck. You should be within 1/4 turn of where it needs to be, you can adjust a little bit.

Honestly, I tried your method quite a few times. All it got me was a spring full of loctite that lost its ability to expand, so there was no push back on the hub. Also, once you turn a screw with loctite, it will no longer hold. And lastly, the diameter of tire you run makes a big difference, and that is why I set the slipper using the tires as a determining factor. If you roll the truck to set the slipper tightness, I find this sets it to a point where it’s perfect. I used to pop u-joints almost every single run. Haven’t popped one since probably July when I figured out this method.

 

[Dinomantar]

Honestly, I tried your method quite a few times. All it got me was a spring full of loctite that lost its ability to expand, so there was no push back on the hub. Also, once you turn a screw with loctite, it will no longer hold. And lastly, the diameter of tire you run makes a big difference, and that is why I set the slipper using the tires as a determining factor. If you roll the truck to set the slipper tightness, I find this sets it to a point where it’s perfect. I used to pop u-joints almost every single run. Haven’t popped one since probably July when I figured out this method.

You are usually pretty spot on with you're advice and im not saying you're wrong here but if you were popping u-joints every run that doesn't mean you figured out the right way it just means the way you were doing it was very wrong?
I did watch the video tho it seems like a pretty good method

 

[razorrc]

Honestly, I tried your method quite a few times. All it got me was a spring full of loctite that lost its ability to expand, so there was no push back on the hub. Also, once you turn a screw with loctite, it will no longer hold. And lastly, the diameter of tire you run makes a big difference, and that is why I set the slipper using the tires as a determining factor. If you roll the truck to set the slipper tightness, I find this sets it to a point where it’s perfect. I used to pop u-joints almost every single run. Haven’t popped one since probably July when I figured out this method.

I like your method of setting the tension, I’ve never seen that before. Yeah, if you’re getting loctite on the spring, the other way is to put the loctite on the female receiver side instead of the male screw side.

The other thing to watch for is I think there’s a washer with ball bearings in it (called the captured thrust bearing) that needs to be greased or occasionally replaced. It’s what the screw rides on that allows it to spin. It’s been a year since I took apart a Kraton slipper and I don’t have it anymore, but that’s what I see in the exploded diagram.

In any case, glad to hear your method is working for you. ???

 

[Xamer]

I had the same issue it was super annoying but I found the best solution was new slipper pads. Mine looked good from the outside but when I took it all apart the two pads became one from heat and they fused together on one side. I was surprised because it looked good from the outside. I think that's your best fix and then just locktite it down after and you'll be back to it.

They come in a 4 pack so when your takes yours apart it should have 2 pads on each side. If you have the same problem as me you'll never get the adjustment right. I was running good then no power and if you have it super tight it will blown out your diff or gears.

 

[ph47mf]

After reading a few threads I think I will end up rebuilding a lot of things, I mean 50mph is a lot of stress on a little plastic car.

Mine is still relatively new, I've only gone through about 4 Lipos. I have done what Jondilly said in the video and let's see if it holds up the next time I take it out, this could be 3 months later with this lock down going on here in the UK. I wonder if I can convince the local officer taking the car out for a run is one form of exercise a day.

 

[zizi8862]

After reading a few threads I think I will end up rebuilding a lot of things, I mean 50mph is a lot of stress on a little plastic car.

Mine is still relatively new, I've only gone through about 4 Lipos. I have done what Jondilly said in the video and let's see if it holds up the next time I take it out, this could be 3 months later with this lock down going on here in the UK. I wonder if I can convince the local officer taking the car out for a run is one form of exercise a day.

I've been taking my outcast to the local park for lots of bashing during the lock down in Nz. Been great with so little amount of people outside. I've also had great speed runs on the road due to no cars

 

[ph47mf]

So I got bored during lockdown and took the rear diff out for a quick clean and learn how to put it back together. I encountered some issues:

1) there's a shim on one side which made closing the yokes very difficult for some reason so I moved it to the other side and it closed up ok, ok to leave it like that or I actually need extra shim?

2) I have tightened it so the two yokes just meet and didn't tighten any further and it seems to move better, asking for trouble?

3) There's not a lot grease there and those little tubs from the hobby shop is expensive! Is this off UK Amazon any good? clicky

 

[Surchaufeur]

So I got bored during lockdown and took the rear diff out for a quick clean and learn how to put it back together. I encountered some issues:

1) there's a shim on one side which made closing the yokes very difficult for some reason so I moved it to the other side and it closed up ok, ok to leave it like that or I actually need extra shim?

2) I have tightened it so the two yokes just meet and didn't tighten any further and it seems to move better, asking for trouble?

3) There's not a lot grease there and those little tubs from the hobby shop is expensive! Is this off UK Amazon any good? clicky

WHat did you mean it did not wanted to close? Imo the shim is there to limit seperation of the diff yokes under heavy load even if the diff is tight and maybe a bit stiff still leave it like that or get the metal diff yokes for the rear to not get any diff issues like i did. don't get the stuff at the hobbyshop honestly most of their grease are rebranded automobile grease. A lot of people recommamd using red N tacky grease its a long tube who would last you a lifetime and its like 6-7usd. Look at your local stores
And i don't advise you to leave the screws no fully tightened all the way i learned with these diffs they need to have a pretty tight mesh even if there is a bit of resistance if you ran the diff like how it was set up stock and got no issues idk why change it

 

[jondilly1974]

So I got bored during lockdown and took the rear diff out for a quick clean and learn how to put it back together. I encountered some issues:

1) there's a shim on one side which made closing the yokes very difficult for some reason so I moved it to the other side and it closed up ok, ok to leave it like that or I actually need extra shim?

2) I have tightened it so the two yokes just meet and didn't tighten any further and it seems to move better, asking for trouble?

3) There's not a lot grease there and those little tubs from the hobby shop is expensive! Is this off UK Amazon any good? clicky

The shim should be on the ring gear side. It pushes the ring gear against the pinion. Unless this makes the gears bind, it belongs on that side. Either way, it needs to be there to prevent side to side slop. If it binds with it on either side, you can try without it, but that probably more likely due to over tightening the yoke screws. As for the grease, there probably is enough in the tower that you can scoop out and reuse if it’s clean. Don’t reuse contaminated grease. Any automotive style grease will do. Just need enough to coat the teeth lightly. Don’t pack it full.

 

[ph47mf]

WHat did you mean it did not wanted to close? Imo the shim is there to limit seperation of the diff yokes under heavy load even if the diff is tight and maybe a bit stiff still leave it like that or get the metal diff yokes for the rear to not get any diff issues like i did. don't get the stuff at the hobbyshop honestly most of their grease are rebranded automobile grease. A lot of people recommamd using red N tacky grease its a long tube who would last you a lifetime and its like 6-7usd. Look at your local stores
And i don't advise you to leave the screws no fully tightened all the way i learned with these diffs they need to have a pretty tight mesh even if there is a bit of resistance if you ran the diff like how it was set up stock and got no issues idk why change it

Thanks for your help.

I cleaned the bearings and tried to put everything back together as instructed, with the shim in the original place next to the gear, the yokes won't close properly at the top leaving a little gap, I can forcefully tighten it together then the gear won't spin at all! I tried different variations and in the end putting the shim on the other side worked. I'm sure the shim was there for a reason I thought I would ask you guys first. I will take it apart again and retry the original way thank you.

 

[jondilly1974]

Thanks for your help.

I cleaned the bearings and tried to put everything back together as instructed, with the shim in the original place next to the gear, the yokes won't close properly at the top leaving a little gap, I can forcefully tighten it together then the gear won't spin at all! I tried different variations and in the end putting the shim on the other side worked. I'm sure the shim was there for a reason I thought I would ask you guys first. I will take it apart again and retry the original way thank you.

My best guess is you didn’t have it seated all the way in the yoke. The shim is only 0.1mm thick and you wouldn’t be able to notice that gap.

 

[Surchaufeur]

My best guess is you didn’t have it seated all the way in the yoke. The shim is only 0.1mm thick and you wouldn’t be able to notice that gap.

The yokes go in only in one way and the bearing on the ring gear side puts a bit of a fig to completly push it in place

 

[bicketybam]

Make sure the yokes are fully seated on the bearings.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Back from a bashing session for some reason punch 4 has become a bit harsh to correct on the air went back to punch 4 and i had full control in the air. Crashed a few times my mother its one of the first time to be with me there people were asking me from a distanc how much it cost the ussual questions. Slipper clurch was for some reason loose i tightened it up and was good to go afterwards. She makes like an e revo sound for some reason maybe because of the ceramic bearings inside the motor its quite funny to hear and she feels pretty healty when running but the noise changes trough the run anyone has an explaination why the sounds the car makes changes during the runs?
Broke nothing but my front diff has a sligh gearmesh of nothing might open it up and move one shim to the other side and taking note of the spots in both gear to put them back in like how they were before i took them out(i have the plastic yokes in the front so i really don't want any small gearmesh to happen was running a new sun gear and i suppose he has breaked in)

 

[bicketybam]

Back from a bashing session for some reason punch 4 has become a bit harsh to correct on the air went back to punch 4 and i had full control in the air. Crashed a few times my mother its one of the first time to be with me there people were asking me from a distanc how much it cost the ussual questions. Slipper clurch was for some reason loose i tightened it up and was good to go afterwards. She makes like an e revo sound for some reason maybe because of the ceramic bearings inside the motor its quite funny to hear and she feels pretty healty when running but the noise changes trough the run anyone has an explaination why the sounds the car makes changes during the runs?
Broke nothing but my front diff has a sligh gearmesh of nothing might open it up and move one shim to the other side and taking note of the spots in both gear to put them back in like how they were before i took them out(i have the plastic yokes in the front so i really don't want any small gearmesh to happen was running a new sun gear and i suppose he has breaked in)

???