Kraton Newbie's journey with a Kraton 4s

[ph47mf]

Thanks for the advice guys.

I think my mistake was putting the yokes back the wrong way round and it just wouldn't close up properly. I have since corrected it and it's spinning nice and smooth now, with some extra grease in, it sounds and moves so much better.

I have tightened both screws (same size by the way) all the way and still moves butter smooth.

I turned it on to test the diff and slipper screw following Jondilly's loctite YouTube video, it's running perfectly now, thank you.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Thanks for the advice guys.

I think my mistake was putting the yokes back the wrong way round and it just wouldn't close up properly. I have since corrected it and it's spinning nice and smooth now, with some extra grease in, it sounds and moves so much better.

I have tightened both screws (same size by the way) all the way and still moves butter smooth.

I turned it on to test the diff and slipper screw following Jondilly's loctite YouTube video, it's running perfectly now, thank you.

Good to hear

 

[jondilly1974]

Thanks for the advice guys.

I think my mistake was putting the yokes back the wrong way round and it just wouldn't close up properly. I have since corrected it and it's spinning nice and smooth now, with some extra grease in, it sounds and moves so much better.

I have tightened both screws (same size by the way) all the way and still moves butter smooth.

I turned it on to test the diff and slipper screw following Jondilly's loctite YouTube video, it's running perfectly now, thank you.

Glad it’s all working now ??

 

[ph47mf]

After a brilliant run yesterday the front right wheel looked a bit wonky but couldn't see why, got home and put a torch on it, the C-hub is cracked. I immediately looked for a replacement but because of covid-19 it won't get to me until near end of June.

I've tested it and it's still quite strong I can't really prise it open and the gap is not big enough for me to put some glue in, as I'm bashing with a friend tomorrow I've put it back in again.

Think it will hold up if I take it easy? Any stronger c-hubs I can buy?

On a side note, I don't know how I manage to tighten the wheel nut so tight when I tried to remove it it broke my nut driver, I had to do everything from behind the wheel first to get to the C-hub.

 

[JAM]

With my luck and broken plastic I’d say no but it’s worth a shot. MAybe try a 2 mix epoxy. Those seem to have given me the best results.

HR makes them in aluminum if you want to go that route but most of their stuff is out of stock as well.

I wish I had a track like that. Sweet spot.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Spray them with wd40

 

[ph47mf]

Thanks guys I took it out and it did ok with the cracked c-hub until my friend came with his what seems to be an indestructible kraton 4s and hit my car at full speed.

I lost the rear arm and rear tower. He doesn't even care about his car, never done any maintanence or cleaning of any sort but his will just run forever wtf. His is the black one with a taped up shell. ?

And I still can't get the wheels off, I reckon the fine sand is the culprit, WD40 can't seem to help. Any ideas?

Oh I found some rust on the spur gear? Something to worry about?

 

[Surchaufeur]

don't worry for the spur yet remove the rust with wd40 on a tower be sure to dry everything when you go on water and i think nothing would have survive that massive hit on your arm to the point ripping off the shock tower with it

 

[razorrc]

You can try a nut driver that has a hole on the end of the handle that you can put a hex driver or screwdriver through and make like a T-handle to get extra leverage on the nut. Something like this:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-trutorque-sl-metric-nut-driver-8.0mm-ptk-8424/p863881

 

[Surchaufeur]

Maybe heat the nut
Just a bit not to the point to melt plastic