OK next issue I can't wrap my head around.

[Bee1]

So I have a 3s Infraction, I thought I'd upgrade my TX, DX5PRO all but 1 vehicle is Spektrum, and I thought ok, all on 1 TX!! So I do the basic and get it to bind with truck, all good, but, I want to use AVC I'm driving on a 2 lane street and have a good spot of maybe 100m( yards) down a dip and up a bit of a hill, lets not forget I've been driving RC anything for about 6weeks, so I feel the need for the AVC, I can't work it out, I know the gyro is working ok but that's all I can work out.

So, today, I decided I'd try to re-bind the DX3 that came with it. The power button was a lot touchier than I remember, and it wouldn't bind, I wondered if it had fallen off the bench, I gave it a few "love taps" and no change.

So, I go back to the DX5PRO and re-bind and it seemed fine all the controls worked i put it's lid on and took it out for a rip, and didn't get out of the driveway when it turned right all by itself, I drive a bit further after turning the wheel back and forth, and 10 foot it turns right again. LOL what a day.

Anyone got any idea what I may have done?

 

[Sandracer_NL]

Is your receiver/gyro fixed in the receiver box? If it can move/wiggle within the receiver box and your gyro is on it can think it need to correct steering.
Try so turn off the gyro function on the remote and see if it drives straight. If so it's probably

 

[Bee1]

Is your receiver/gyro fixed in the receiver box? If it can move/wiggle within the receiver box and your gyro is on it can think it need to correct steering.
Try so turn off the gyro function on the remote and see if it drives straight. If so it's probably

I haven't done anything with the RX other than press the bind button, I just checked and it's secure as can be.

 

[morrjr71]

I had a similar problem where my Typhon 3s would turn right on its own every six feet or so. I tried turning AVC down, but that didn't work. I finally had to disable AVC completely. I think I got a bad receiver.

There is a procedure for setting AVC after putting in a new receiver, but I don't recall it right now. A search here should find it.

 

[Bee1]

I had a similar problem where my Typhon 3s would turn right on its own every six feet or so. I tried turning AVC down, but that didn't work. I finally had to disable AVC completely. I think I got a bad receiver.

There is a procedure for setting AVC after putting in a new receiver, but I don't recall it right now. A search here should find it.

Thanks for that, i did just read 3 quick presses of the set button within a second or so is suppose to disable AVC in the receiver, I'll give that a try in the morning. I do have a couple of spare receivers as a last resort, well 2nd last, last would be a noble RX and use the NB4 instead, but that also looks complicated to get AVC going.
I really should put the research in and master the controller and use some of the features that are available.

 

[Jeppyjep]

Watch that video I had same issues a while back and this video helped me out . Have to make sure your receiver is level and brake rate is at 100 once you’re done binding you have to calibrate your remote full gas full break then right then left . Then I would even take it anther step and calibrate your esc after a new bind is complete

 

[Dales396lt4]

That's a great video, it helped me out a lot back when I ran the DX3.

 

[Jeppyjep]

That's a great video, it helped me out a lot back when I ran the DX3.

I’d reset the model then calibrate the remote itself then rebind the remote then gas brake right left then calibrate the esc

 

[SrC]

I had a similar problem where my Typhon 3s would turn right on its own every six feet or so. I tried turning AVC down, but that didn't work. I finally had to disable AVC completely. I think I got a bad receiver.

There is a procedure for setting AVC after putting in a new receiver, but I don't recall it right now. A search here should find it.

Yeah those $AVC SPek. Rx's$ are notoriously finicky. I hate them. Better with a standalone Gyro if anything. Settings with your DXPro radio may also be an issue.
As a newb I would "disable" the AVC altogether, done during the Bind process per the manual. See what happens. You don't need AVC or a gyro. It is a placebo to some extent, making you think you really need it. You don't. AVC or any gyro is giving you a false sense of security. It will not make you or break you.
>>>Your driving skills just need to improve. Takes a hundred hours and more to develope your skills with driving RC's.
A gyro does serve a purpose, just not to the extent that you think. And for big air hard bashing a gyro only works against you.

 

[Xpress..]

AVC has to be re-calibrated every time you bind. The process is uber easy, and takes about 20 seconds once you understand what has to be done. The above video explains it.

 

[Bee1]

ok, I got the DX3 to bind, but it has no reverse, I try to tune the esc and got as far as the 1st setting, I press the button and give full throttle the light goes out, I press again expecting it to blink again to do reverse, and it doesn't seem to recognise that i have pushed reverse, I'm thinking the DX3 is damaged, I had it turned off and tipped it forward and it turned on!!

 

[Bee1]

Persistence pays off!! Finally some Joy!!! It works just as it did when I took it out of the box, I do like a touch of AVC out the front, there are cars parked on both sides today and there is only room for 1 car to get passed.
Anyway, I felt good enough to install 1 of those aluminium nose plate with the centre bull bar bits on it and took the clear wing off, maybe a low cut aluminium one to match the nose, I'm worried about running into someone with it, it would do some damage.
Thanks for everyone's input, it kept me trying, and that paid off.

 

[SrC]

AVC has to be re-calibrated every time you bind. The process is uber easy, and takes about 20 seconds once you understand what has to be done. The above video explains it.

+1.
The rig must be very still and on the ground/level surface when powered on. Then the AVC/gyro initializes/calibrates properly. It does this every time you power it ON.
One great way to screw it up is holding the rig in your hands while powering it On.
We tend to do this normally with Non AVC/gryo rigs. A bad habit doing this with AVC/Gyros, however.

 

[Xpress..]

+1.
The rig must be very still and on the ground/level surface when powered on. Then the AVC/gyro initializes/calibrates properly. It does this every time you power it ON.
One great way to screw it up is holding the rig in your hands while powering it On.
We tend to do this normally with Non AVC/gryo rigs. A bad habit doing this with AVC/Gyros, however.

Many a times I've taught someone that bought a car from my LHS about this. Nobody takes the time to read the directions (I'm prime suspect #1 here) that explain the car needs to sit stationary for a handful of seconds before they're ready to rip.

 

[Sirkensirlot]

Persistence pays off!! Finally some Joy!!! It works just as it did when I took it out of the box, I do like a touch of AVC out the front, there are cars parked on both sides today and there is only room for 1 car to get passed.
Anyway, I felt good enough to install 1 of those aluminium nose plate with the centre bull bar bits on it and took the clear wing off, maybe a low cut aluminium one to match the nose, I'm worried about running into someone with it, it would do some damage.
Thanks for everyone's input, it kept me trying, and that paid off.

I also fitted an aluminum splitter with a bull bar. The worst thing ever no give if you wreck, stick with the plastic ones more give less bent chassis

 

[Bee1]

I also fitted an aluminum splitter with a bull bar. The worst thing ever no give if you wreck, stick with the plastic ones more give less bent chassis

yeah good point, didn't consider a good wreck, I was more worried about running into myself!! hit my ankle with my 6s notorious and cause a fabric burn right on the point of my ankle, it's taking forever to heal, can't imagine if it had of been that thin metal skirt instead of a big lump of plastic.