Outcast Outcast 6s EXB upgrade and build log. RPM, TBR, Hot Racing, 35kg servo, LED's, and more! UPDATED& FINISHED!

Custnam

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My first Arrma was a Notorious V4. I loved that truck. It did everything I was looking for and then some. Anyway of course I sold it quite a while back. Homer “DOH”! And since then Ive been shuffling cars in and out, upgrading, etc. Well I decided to come back to 6s and I am so glad I did. The Outcast 6s EXB is basically built just like it would be if I bought a V1 and did all the upgrades myself. But me being me that doesn't mean I haven't been upgrading it. As I said before upgrading, building, and working on them is half the fun for me. I can sit there for hours tweaking this and that until I get it right. Well with my Outcast 6s EXB its no different. I had an upgrade plan before I even bought it. And after tearing it apart Ive adjusted my upgrade plan here and there and Im pretty sure its final now. Im just waiting on the rest of the parts. Anyway below is a full list of all the parts with part numbers for anyone who may need them along with my daily build log. Thanks for reading!

UPGRADES AND OTHER PARTS LIST:


  • Batteries. I went with 4 Socokin 6S Lipo Battery 22.2V 100C 7200mAh
  • EXB bumper ARA320573
  • DS3235 35kg servo
  • Rocket Aluminum 35mm motor fan
  • 3d printed fan cover
  • Hot Racing Aluminum Center Differential Cover HRAANN38C01
  • Chassis Protector (Cut your own Vinyl) Carbon Fiber look
  • LED's Front Blue Halo/ Bright and rear reds
  • ARRMA 1/5 roof rails ARA480038 (used as fender/ hood skids)
  • RPM rear skid plate RPM81332
  • Kraton 4s body post protectors ARA480017 (Used as roof protection)
  • T-Bone Typhon 6s bumper 00037 (Used as rear bumper)
  • Tires: Have another brand new set of Backflips and new Copperhead 2's
  • RPM Wing mount RPM81642
  • Extra body
  • Bearings needed. 6x10x3 for the steering posts, 5x10x4 for wheelie bar
  • Extra screws. Ordered several different sizes of Monster bolts 12.9 screws
  • Motor Bearings. Ordered a set of TBR ceramics (1) 5x16x5 and (1)5x13x4
  • Hot Racing suspension mounts: AON08FR01,AON08FF01,AON09RR01,AON09RF01, and
    AON08FU01. Found a seller on EB selling all of these pretty cheap. I know they arent “needed”.
  • Hot Racing closed end wheel nuts NRO10N02
  • Pinions. Already had quite a few D5 Mod 1s. Ordered a new 14t and 15t.
  • Hot Racing shock collars and caps. AON156AX01 and AON156BX01



    DAY 1:

    Day one was just unboxing it, looking everything over for leaks, missing screws, etc. Everything looked great.
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    Day 2:

    Started an almost complete disassembly. All was fine until I got to the rear hubs. I originally planned on replacing the rear dog bones with CVD's so I had to remove the rear axles. Both were way over thread locked. I was able to get one side undone using my soldering iron on the screw which almost always works. Well on the other side no matter how much heat I used the thread lock wouldnt break. I ended up stripping the set screw. I was able to dremel out the screw enough so that I could tap the pin out. So this saved the hub carrier. But I had to order a new rear axle.

    After removing everything from the chassis I was able to start the chassis protector. I got the idea of using a sheet of Vinyl that with a carbon fiber pattern from @The_Otherside. In the past I used ones that were precut with logos on them like the Monster logo, but this time I decided on a plain carbon fiber pattern. Its not hard, but a bit time consuming if you also cut out all the screw holes which I did. I cut and trimmed it all and it came out great. Should provide at least a small amount of protection and looks pretty cool too. I will also be installing a TBR front bumper on the rear and the new updated RPM chassis skid.

    Next on the list was the diffs. I took them apart, one was super low on fluid, so I put new Team Factory diff fluid in. 60k front, 500k center, and 30k rear. I ran this before in my Notorious and liked it. (Switched to 60k front max, 200k center max, 20k rear open). Then installed the diffs into the cases. Next I installed new sealed bearings into the wheelie bar wheels, installed the RPM wing mount, and new sealed bearings into the steering posts. I installed the 35mm fan onto the motors heat sink with the 3d printed cover.

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    Day 3:

    Installed Flysky FS-BS6 receiver, then the DS3235 35kg servo. It mounts perfect and lines up with the steering link if you don't use any of the plastic spacers. Installed the new Hot Racing steering link. I then made a lead wire with a JST connector that goes from the receiver out to the body. This will power the LEDs when connected. Then it was on to the shocks. Although they felt pretty good and werent leaking I still dumped the stock fluid and went with new TF 80wt all around.

    Next on the list while I wait for other parts is the body. I have a plan on how I want this to go and if done right it should be well protected, look great, and have some cool LEDs. First was using the 5th scale roof rails as fender protectors. I installed these and it fits and looks awesome. I also like using the Kraton 4s body post protectors anywhere where the body might scrape. So I put 4 of them on the roof. These also installed easily and look beefy. Next was the very time consuming yet fun installation of the LEDs. I got these started by installing the Halos in the front, running the wires to the roof where I will be splicing the rears into the harness. If any of you have used hot glue on the inside of these bodies for some of them it just doesn't stick, and peels away. My “solution” to that is dropping a drop of super glue here and there as I go. Unfortunately the glue damages the paint and can be seen on the outside as well. Its not bad but once you know its there you cant help but look. Anyway despite this I just kept on and eventually got the fronts and rears fully glued into place. I also glued the Halo toggle switch to the window area so I can switch between just outer Halo round lights, and the full bright ones that light up the street! To fix the areas that the super glue damaged I ordered some Tamiya flat black paint. Ill be masking off, then painting the entire inside again covering the damage. I do have an extra body so the plan is use this one for night runs and the other one in the day.

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Day 4:

At this point I decided to buy all of the available Hot Racing suspension mounts and found a seller on Ebay selling all 5 below retail so I picked up all 5. I then decaled the body using my ARRMA Forum decals I bought from @WoodiE . I then tried to install the new motor bearings and was able to get the old ones out fairly easy using the bread trick on one. But installing the new ones was a pain. At the time I didnt know about the freezer trick so I tapped the pinion side one into place. I got it in, but it feels a bit rough when spinning it so I think its damaged inside. Anyway I have a new motor on the way and another set of the TBR ceramics, and this time Ill be using the freezer with NO TAPPING.

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Day 5:

I received the Tamiya flat black paint I ordered so today was painting the interior. I removed all the body hardware, the skids, and post protectors then very carefully masked off the inside “protection” decals and all along the outer edges. I then painted the inside, and it came out awesome. It almost fully fixed the super glue damaged areas as well as covering all the hot glue and wires. Heres some pics of how it came out. Its probably the cleanest LED install Ive done.

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Day 6:

The body now fully dry I reinstalled all the body hardware, skids, and post protectors. Also the new rear axle I ordered came so I installed that. Thats all I can do for now while I wait for additional parts, but so far this has been a fun build. If you read this far thanks for reading! Feel free to post comments or questions.

To be continued...
 
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May I ask why you choose against using the Outcast exb bumper?? In my experience, it looks really good on the truck and does just as good of a job protecting the car as the Kraton exb bumper. Isn't the servo mount on the Outcast already aluminum as well?
 
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Custnam

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May I ask why you choose against using the Outcast exb bumper?? In my experience, it looks really good on the truck and does just as good of a job protecting the car as the Kraton exb bumper. Isn't the servo mount on the Outcast already aluminum as well?
Just prefer the Kraton one.
 

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Build continued..

Day 7:

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I received all the Hot Racing suspension parts I ordered. I installed 3 out of the 5 parts I ordered. The AON08FU01 upper front mount didnt work because the new EXB front upper mount system. It doesn't have screw holes for the 2 set screws that hold the pins in place.
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So I stayed with the the stock EXB one. The other part that would have worked with a bit of modding was the AON08FF01 front lower front mount. The “nubs” on this part that stick out are too large to fit in the holes of the EXB's bumper mount. You can drill or dremel the holes in the mount a bit bigger and it works, but I decided to just stay with the stock one here as well. So good news! Ill be posting those mounts in the classifieds!

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Day 8:

I received the Spektrum motor I got from JRC and put the end cap (pinion side) with stock bearing and into the freezer of my mini fridge. While those chilled I installed the Kraton EXB bumper. Later I decided not to use that one and went back to the stock Outcast EXB one. I then installed the T-Bone rear bumper and the updated RPM skid onto the rear. I then used the “bread trick” and easily got the bearing in the end cap out. Then I used my heat gun on the other side while the bearing was still cold. The stock bearing literally fell out! Again thanks @jkflow and @SrC . Then I out my new ceramic bearings into the freezer for about 15 minutes, then heated the end caps with my heat gun. This time the bearings literally fell into place. SO MUCH EASIER! Next I installed the motor heat sink with 35mm fan and 3d printed fan cover. Then I installed a 15t pinion on the motor and installed the motor. I had an issue with the spur/ pinion mesh where no matter how I adjusted it it was really loud. I disassembled the center diff parts then out it all back together and its still loud. I am pretty sure this is just because its new.

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Day 9:

I installed the new Hot Racing shock caps and collars. These have 2 options for the shocks. You can use them vented or emulsion. I went with the vented option and used new Team Factory 80wt all around. The shocks came out great.

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Day 10:

I used to have a job where wire and cable management was essential for building ozone generators. Since then its something I probably spend more time on then necessary, but once its done it looks great and all the wires are routed and protected well. And this is no exception. I heat shrunk the motor wires and the motor fan power lead, then zip tied everything so that the ESC and LED wires don't interfere with the servo horn and link. I then put all the plastics back on, then the shocks. Next I set the end points and calibrated the ESC throttle, neutral, and brake, then checked all the ESC settings. Im pretty sure the build is done (for now). ;) This has been a fun build and I am very happy with how it came out. Heres some pictures of the final build and some that show the LED's lit up. Any comments/ questions are welcome and thanks for reading!


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Great looking build, lights and chassis guard are nice. Do you find your diff weights a bit heavy for exb diffs when driving it?
 

Custnam

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Great looking build, lights and chassis guard are nice. Do you find your diff weights a bit heavy for exb diffs when driving it?
Great question. I haven't driven it yet. I didnt even think to use a different weight with these. Whats recommended for street running and wheelies?
 

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jkflow

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FYI, you do not need those 2 grub screws. That was a thing that came along with EXB, but really doesn't add anything.
My V3/V4 hybrid parts don't have any, and that has never been an issue.

AON08FU01 upper front mount
 

SrC

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FYI, you do not need those 2 grub screws. That was a thing that came along with EXB, but really doesn't add anything.
My V3/V4 hybrid parts don't have any, and that has never been an issue.

AON08FU01 upper front mount
What exact 2 grubs are you referring to?:unsure:
 

jkflow

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What exact 2 grubs are you referring to?:unsure:
Post #6, his Day 7, 2nd picture down.

"I received all the Hot Racing suspension parts I ordered. I installed 3 out of the 5 parts I ordered. The AON08FU01 upper front mount didnt work because the new EXB front upper mount system. It doesn't have screw holes for the 2 set screws that hold the pins in place."
 

Custnam

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FYI, you do not need those 2 grub screws. That was a thing that came along with EXB, but really doesn't add anything.
My V3/V4 hybrid parts don't have any, and that has never been an issue.

AON08FU01 upper front mount

How would the pins mount without the set screws? The EXB pins aren't threaded.
I do
7k/500k/20k
R/C/F
MIN/OPEN/MAX (LSD Configs)
Are those the stock LSD configs?
@SrC . I've been reading some people run F50k / C200k / R20k (rear diff open). Is this what you run? And since Associated doesn't make 50k is 60k ok, or should I get a different brand? I have 60k and 30k TF. Would that be too heavy?

Also does this mean the front and center are closed config? Is open the maximum effect, and closed the minimum? Not use to the lsd Diffs. Thx
 
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Custnam

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I found the lsd Exploded view. I see the bottom one says open, so which one is "closed" minimum or maximum configs? Thx

@Exc3l .I'm considering going 30k front min, 200k Center open, 10k rear max. Would this be ok? I'm going to be doing mainly street runs and wheelies for now. Is 10k rear max too light to trigger wheelies at throttle? Cuz I could go 60k front min, 200k Center open, 30k rear max also. Thx
Screenshot_20220412-162422_Acrobat for Samsung.png
 
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