Fireteam Project Failure - A noobs attempt to keep a Fireteam on the road for more then 24 hours

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CosmiC10R said:
Getting the rear hubs on. Had to go out and buy a heat gun because all the 5mm allens were seized in the hubs. Worked like a charm, you guys were spot on with that.

The ceramic bearings are much bigger.

View attachment 304041

View attachment 304042
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I prefer "double sheared" Upgrade Rear Hubs. The way Arrma did the stockers and many other upgrade brand rear hubs followed suit.
You don't need the Safe-D C-clip or even the "Crush tube" at the Pinion. They don't do much if anything at all. I removed mine. I feel the Crush tube if anything can potentially bind up the motors' BB inner race. My motor was even quieter without the Crush tube., tested on the bench with my motor analyzer.
 
SrC said:
I prefer "double sheared" Upgrade Rear Hubs. The way Arrma did the stockers and many other upgrade brand rear hubs followed suit.
You don't need the Safe-D C-clip or even the "Crush tube" at the Pinion. They don't do much if anything at all. I removed mine. I feel the Crush tube if anything can potentially bind up the motors' BB inner race. My motor was even quieter without the Crush tube., tested on the bench with my motor analyzer.
Click to expand...
i using the wrong terms here I think. I should have said carriers with the oversized inner bearings
I think ive seen a version of what you are mentioning with the Vitavon "splined" hubs.
At some point I will grab those but really need to get off the stock carriers and bearings.
 
Many do what you did, and only for the larger oversized Inner BB's.(y)
I stayed with the Stocker Plastic Hubs( Carriers/ Uprights) on All of my 8 6s Arrma's, and use just Better Upgrade BB's. I replace them before they wear out also. Been lucky with my setup. I rather crack a plastic hub, which is rare, over breaking my Arms and link ends with Alloy ones. I rather have the flex of plastic hubs. And unsuspended weight stays lower at each corner.
FWIW, the Trenchers are rather heavy a tires go. More bite for sure (y), just that Traction Rolling might become more pronounced.
Just me.
 
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Interesting design on the rear hub not capturing the ball on both ends.

I’d rather the upper arm plastic link have the ball joint pop out than the rod and/or hub ear get destroyed.
 
The stocker Rear hub Carrier is "double sheared" for a reason. I feel other wise, it is a "downgraded design". And visibly appears in the picture to make the upper link 'Off Center" at the top of the hub..You never want the Upper link to come off. Should remain "captured". Can cause a rear dog bone, and much other related carnage that results with a popped off Upper link.
Scortched hubs would not be my choice for this reason alone.
 
SrC said:
The stocker Rear hub Carrier is "double sheared" for a reason. I feel other wise, it is a "downgraded design". And visibly appears in the picture to make the upper link 'Off Center" at the top of the hub..You never want the Upper link to come off. Should remain "captured". Can cause a rear dog bone, and much other related carnage that results with a popped off Upper link.
Scortched hubs would not be my choice for this reason alone.
Click to expand...

The off center is purely the perspective of the picture.
 
Wasn't 100% sure. I just had to point it out.
TY.(y)
 
SrC said:
Wasn't 100% sure. I just had to point it out.
TY.(y)
Click to expand...
no worries. I noticed how much perspective messes it up because of the shock measurements. I had to go back after looking at the pic to make sure I had the tops lined up as it looked so off so i had to point out i did check that too when i posted the pics lol

Im not jumping the truck like some of you guys do... so its mostly high speed rough area runs.
In looking at the two arms on the stock carriers I kind of assumed it was because of the plastic and the 7075-t6 would be stronger and not require the second arm. When I look at the screw it has significantly farther to back out so unless the single arm somehow busts a screw Im not sure it's technically that much of a regression unless im thinking of it wrong.

I guess I will find out lol. The quality seems great and I did get the ceramic bearings...

I think you forgot you posted in here in april lol... I jumped over to badlands back when we talked about the trenchers and they seem to be a good compromise between the trencher and the stock... I like them anyways lol

Ill fiddle with front carriers a bit in a while.
 
I would use a shorter screw now being single shear. Or trim that screw. Use some blue Threadlocker.
The pic below shows an Arrow where the End link can pop off, because it is no longer captured. I would place a "Washer" over the ball before you insert the screw. To capture the End Link onto the Ball. If you notice there is a washer used at the Inner end link at the shock Tower. Do it the same way on the outer link.
That link mount still looks to be off center to me. Maybe the link belongs at the front of the Hub carrier??:unsure: Maybe just a bad pix angle??? IDK.
1685988506046.jpeg
 
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SrC said:
I would use a shorter screw now being single shear. Or trim that screw. Use some blue Threadlocker.
The pic below shows an Arrow where the End link can pop off, because it is no longer captured. I would place a "Washer" over the ball before you insert the screw. To capture the End Link onto the Ball. If you notice there is a washer used at the Inner end link at the shock Tower. Do it the same way on the outer link.
That link mount still looks to be off center to me. Maybe the link belongs at the front of the Hub carrier??:unsure: Maybe just a bad pix angle??? IDK.
Click to expand...

I see what you are saying about it being captured. Ill maybe try a washer.

It is the pic angle. Ive lined up the two hubs and they are exactly lined up for the single arm.
 
Ok makes me breathe easier knowing the camber Link is centered.:giggle:
Yeah just add a washer like at the other end of the link at the Tower. And the Link End will be captured onto the ball. Otherwise it can pop off.
 
SrC said:
Ok makes me breathe easier knowing the camber Link is centered.:giggle:
Yeah just add a washer like at the other end of the link at the Tower. And the Link End will be captured onto the ball. Otherwise it can pop off.
Click to expand...
I just noticed that one at the top.... I don't have one handy but Ill find a couple somewhere.
 
Garcbomber said:
I ordered a set just to try out, they were intended for Notorious/Kraton/Fireteam. Front and rear ended up being 5mm short in comparison eye to eye so I used them in my hybrid Tyjave. The springs were WAY too high in K-value, so I used Mojave springs and designed up a collar @Tex Koder was kind enough to print because the body mount is smaller diameter if you guys are interested.

View attachment 303467
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I don't think I would mind they are a little shorter. They look solid, guessing they would need some bump stops to prevent over compression (don't want the axles popping out).

https://www.amazon.com/ShareGoo-Aluminum-Assembled-Compatible-Notorious/dp/B0BJVCH1K9
 
Ooooo nice one, a pin bend and an arm yield at the cavity line. Check your B-block if still composite for being oblong and verify front steel hinge pin retainer isn't deflected.
 
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