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i want a futaba 7pxr
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Absolutely, going from 100 mW up to 2W is going to make a massive difference.
I have not been impressed with aftermarket signal booster solutions, it is nice to see an OEM provide one like this.
Does the Noble NB4 have a designated mounting spot for this like the Air TX do?
Big question to you and all who use the RC6GS. I just got mine and installed receivers in three vehicles. How do you route your antennas? Also, is it a necessity for them to exit the body work? Right now, mine are installed with one antenna facing forward and the other facing the rear. The forward facing is straight towards the front at the center. Rear facing is curved around the rear of the receiver box and then follows the outside of the battery box. Tips and suggestions welcome. All my bodies are Gorilla taped, so I'm not sure if this has an adverse affect of reception. My two bashers probably don't need tons of distance, but my Typhon speed runner is the one I'm most concerned about.Absolutely, going from 100 mW up to 2W is going to make a massive difference.
I have not been impressed with aftermarket signal booster solutions, it is nice to see an OEM provide one like this.
Does the Noble NB4 have a designated mounting spot for this like the Air TX do?
I do not have a full write up and don't use much of the settings myself, but a good YT video is probably your best bet.
This is one for example. I believe he is on this forum:
I would imagine for anything under 1000 ft range running the antennas inside the body will be fine. (general use)Big question to you and all who use the RC6GS. I just got mine and installed receivers in three vehicles. How do you route your antennas? Also, is it a necessity for them to exit the body work? Right now, mine are installed with one antenna facing forward and the other facing the rear. The forward facing is straight towards the front at the center. Rear facing is curved around the rear of the receiver box and then follows the outside of the battery box. Tips and suggestions welcome. All my bodies are Gorilla taped, so I'm not sure if this has an adverse affect of reception. My two bashers probably don't need tons of distance, but my Typhon speed runner is the one I'm most concerned about.
Big question to you and all who use the RC6GS. I just got mine and installed receivers in three vehicles. How do you route your antennas? Also, is it a necessity for them to exit the body work? Right now, mine are installed with one antenna facing forward and the other facing the rear. The forward facing is straight towards the front at the center. Rear facing is curved around the rear of the receiver box and then follows the outside of the battery box. Tips and suggestions welcome. All my bodies are Gorilla taped, so I'm not sure if this has an adverse affect of reception. My two bashers probably don't need tons of distance, but my Typhon speed runner is the one I'm most concerned about.
I would imagine for anything under 1000 ft range running the antennas inside the body will be fine. (general use)
For speed runners it is best to have at least one above the body.
I show my antenna setup in this video pretty well.
Thanks to you both for the great info. In the Typhon, I'll run one inside down the center with a curved tube like @LibertyMKiii did. The other will go out the body in it's normal place. This will give it the opposing directions needed and hopefully increase the range. As for the bashers, I'll test my current set up to make sure there's no issues, and adjust if necessary. The tip about the towers is timely, as I had considered running one of the basher's wires forward through the tower. Appreciate the input gentlemen.One should be vertical, other horizontal for the best reception. On drones there are these kind of designs:
View attachment 128681
But that's only because they move 360deg on 3 axis's with a carbon frame in the middle. Preferable the antenna's should be as high as possible, but mostly because you don't want a shock tower in between the angle of the antenna and the radio. 10cm higher or lower without interference wont make much difference.
As for the body, Lexan and gorilla tape won't interfere much with the signal. Shocktowers do, metal and carbon are signal blockers
I noticed that in the @LibertyMKiii video.Do note that only the top 3.3cm is the actual antenna, rest is just extension wire
Did you receive your FTr10 yet? . I ordered one from Banggood and received it last week. I Got it bound to my NB4 but my Limitless build isn't done and its still winter here for at least 2 more months. I need to figure out where I'm going to mount the RX its a Little bit bigger than the 4 channel RX's.Do note that only the top 3.3cm is the actual antenna, rest is just extension wire
It’s kinda hard to see in this pic from last season, but this is how I had mine mounted.Did you receive your FTr10 yet? . I ordered one from Banggood and received it last week. I Got it bound to my NB4 but my Limitless build isn't done and its still winter here for at least 2 more months. I need to figure out where I'm going to mount the RX its a Little bit bigger than the 4 channel RX's.
View attachment 129539
It’s kinda hard to see in this pic from last season, but this is how I had mine mounted.
View attachment 129545
It’s half torn apart now.. (winter here also) but here’s a better shot from today.
View attachment 129548View attachment 129549
I’ll probably have to find a new spot for it tho, as I’m going to squeeze an xlx2 in there somewhere instead of the MMX8s it had. All while retaining both battery trays and keeping the motor in stock orientation, under the stock shell.
That’s basically the plan, I’ll post more pics after I shoehorn it alll in there.That aftermarket center brace with ESC mount may be your best option.
Did you receive your FTr10 yet?
I was thinking of mounting it like you have it . Wondering if my CF Chassis brace will interfer with the antennas if I have them ty-wrapped to the brace where yours are. I know CF will block the signal if the antenna were under it. Might be a good Idea to poke a hole through the body and find a grommet that will fit snug around the antennas and put one through the body sticking up and keep one inside the body.It’s kinda hard to see in this pic from last season, but this is how I had mine mounted.
View attachment 129545
It’s half torn apart now.. (winter here also) but here’s a better shot from today.
View attachment 129548View attachment 129549
I’ll probably have to find a new spot for it tho, as I’m going to squeeze an xlx2 in there somewhere instead of the MMX8s it had. All while retaining both battery trays and keeping the motor in stock orientation, under the stock shell.
I might move it into the stock esc location as it won’t have an esc there anymore and make a small bracket to hold the antenna’s.I was thinking of mounting it like you have it . Wondering if my CF Chassis brace will interfer with the antennas if I have them ty-wrapped to the brace where yours are. I know CF will block the signal if the antenna were under it. Might be a good Idea to poke a hole through the body and find a grommet that will fit snug around the antennas and put one through the body sticking up and keep one inside the body.
FYI The FTr10 is still stuck in transit, but i expect it to go way beyond that 1400ft.Very nice work. Does the white power cable fit in there once the handle is screwed back on without binding or touching anything it shouldn't? My OCD ass would worry about it knocking a connector off, or damaging a tiny solder joint somewhere in there. I just might do this to my Noble, if I could get 1400 ft out of it I would rather use it than the Radiolink RC6
No Need for the Black PLA... Just skin the controllerMy prototype booster casing:
View attachment 131231View attachment 131232
A black antenna and black PLA will probably make it look better
what distances have you covered with your existing set-up @Hammer DownIt’s kinda hard to see in this pic from last season, but this is how I had mine mounted.
It’s half torn apart now.. (winter here also) but here’s a better shot from today.
I’ll probably have to find a new spot for it tho, as I’m going to squeeze an xlx2 in there somewhere instead of the MMX8s it had. All while retaining both battery trays and keeping the motor in stock orientation, under the stock shell.
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