Recklessly Reliable

[SUISLIDE]

Long story short , I'm having a real hard time picking between motors for my 8th scale Kraton. It's mad hopped up . the rotor inside the 2050 blew apart . So.... it's between these 2 bad boys
Hobbystar 4292 / 1300Kv
Hobbystar 4585 / 1250Kv
Both give me wood haha . When I'm in the air it out mode , I run badlands or copperhead for backflips and wheelies , but lately have the belted Katar's on it and speed bash .
What yall think ? I plan on starting at a 22t and goin up from there if need be with ether way I go. Just want something that's going to be reliable , and take a red head step child beating .. Pic of the rig it's goin in

 

[Radiocontrolsoul]

Grip it and rip it

 

[SUISLIDE]

Grip it and rip it

That's what my antenna straw says on the big truck lol

 

[speeding_Infraction]

Well it depends whether you prefer thick or long... Lol

I'd go with the 4585... It looks more impressive haha

 

[Garcbomber]

Go with the new v2 HobbyStar 4292 or 4985, and you’ll want 1500-1800 kV in that rig for gearing flexibility on 6S

This motor is more of a low-midrange powerhouse compared to the 4092/4292 being mid-upper RPM torque. Either way you can choose teeth accordingly based on where you frequent to manage temps.

 

[RC Steve]

What is the difference between a 4292 and a 4092 besides $10.00. I'm new to Hobbystar.

 

[Garcbomber]

The V2s have a temp probe and higher rated rotor/coil assembly. I believe the wattage ratings haven’t changed.

I run their 150A/4282 combo on a TyJave, can’t complain for $120 total. Got it warm on a hot day purposely a couple times with extreme gearing, shuts down or slows nicely when internal ESC is 95c or motor is 120c. All variable with timing/boost/PWM based on programming card. Essentially a max 8 clone.

 

[Sandracer_NL]

I'm not sure (for) how (long) a 4092 or 4292 (same just the 42 has 2mm cooling fins) likes the stock esc.
Personally with stock esc I'd go with a 4082 or 4282 motor. Or a Max6 with a 4092/4292; or if you want crazy power a Max6/4985 combo.
I see you like Top Gun ,so I suggest the 4985 combo to get to Mach 10 ("not 10.1, not 10.2, just Mach 10. I don't like the look on your face Mav. It's the only one I got.") Big fan here.

IMO one of the best things you can do to prolong motor durability is install ceramic motor bearings.

 

[SUISLIDE]

I'm not sure (for) how (long) a 4092 or 4292 (same just the 42 has 2mm cooling fins) likes the stock esc.
Personally with stock esc I'd go with a 4082 or 4282 motor. Or a Max6 with a 4092/4292; or if you want crazy power a Max6/4985 combo.
I see you like Top Gun ,so I suggest the 4985 combo to get to Mach 10 ("not 10.1, not 10.2, just Mach 10. I don't like the look on your face Mav. It's the only one I got.") Big fan here.

IMO one of the best things you can do to prolong motor durability is install ceramic motor bearings.

I know ittl be pushing it with the stock esc , have the max6 on order already . A damn 49 will fit in the truck ?! Geeze ! Definitely a Top Gun fan , the new one was SO good . Name seemed too fitting both for the rig and my driving style haha. I didnt know about the v2's being a higher grade , that alone makes me lean toward the 4292. Thank you for your input guys ^^ nice rigs also !

 

[Hector_Fisher]

The max6 is the go-to combo for these trucks. I did blow up my firm 150a ESC when i installed a 4292, so i wouldn't personally recommend doing it. But to each their own.

Both my buddy and I have kraton EXBs, he runs a 4585 and I run the 4292. Power wise, they seem to be about the same. 4585 usually has lower power limits than the 4092/4292. The bonus about the 4092 is that there is plenty of real estate for fans, it's not hard to squeeze in two 40mm fans side by side.

 

[SrC]

Long story short , I'm having a real hard time picking between motors for my 8th scale Kraton. It's mad hopped up . the rotor inside the 2050 blew apart . So.... it's between these 2 bad boys
Hobbystar 4292 / 1300Kv
Hobbystar 4585 / 1250Kv
Both give me wood haha . When I'm in the air it out mode , I run badlands or copperhead for backflips and wheelies , but lately have the belted Katar's on it and speed bash .
What yall think ? I plan on starting at a 22t and goin up from there if need be with ether way I go. Just want something that's going to be reliable , and take a red head step child beating .. Pic of the rig it's goin in

View attachment 310654

With the stocker 6s ESC, those motors are not correct. You never mentioned what ESC you were running when that stocker 2050kv exploded.
Should have maintained the motor better perhaps IDK. Especially if you were running 8s voltage through a stocker 2050 motor.
Maintenance and Replacing the 2 BB's is a thing, before the rotor explodes and locks up. Just food for thought when you replace with any new motor. 1600kv is the minimum I would go IF running 6s. Your 2 motor choices are best for an 8s ESC setup IMHO. For the way you describe running, Big air beating and all.
Just me.

 

[SUISLIDE]

Stook 150A ESC . I don't run that truck on 8s . I have 8s rigs for that haha . I typically run lower KV motors in all my setups , had good luck with them so far . Thanks for the info , im am going to sit down and do some math to decide what Kv will fit best. I think I decided on the 4292 V2 motor . It is offered in a 1500Kv

With the stocker 6s ESC, those motors are not correct. You never mentioned what ESC you were running when that stocker 2050kv exploded.
Should have maintained the motor better perhaps IDK. Especially if you were running 8s voltage through a stocker 2050 motor.
Maintenance and Replacing the 2 BB's is a thing, before the rotor explodes and locks up. Just food for thought when you replace with any new motor. 1600kv is the minimum I would go IF running 6s. Your 2 motor choices are best for an 8s ESC setup IMHO. For the way you describe running, Big air beating and all.
Just me.

 

[Garcbomber]

Peak RPM will be limited on 6S with the 1500Kv and why your previous setups may have been underperforming, I'd personally opt for the 1780

You can't pinion up/spur down on a motor rotor/stator wound specifically to reach peak RPM on a certain voltage.

Here is where speed runners can get into trouble over-revving a brushless motor if they undergear/overvolt.

 

[KnowAir]

With the stocker 6s ESC, those motors are not correct. You never mentioned what ESC you were running when that stocker 2050kv exploded.
Should have maintained the motor better perhaps IDK. Especially if you were running 8s voltage through a stocker 2050 motor.
Maintenance and Replacing the 2 BB's is a thing, before the rotor explodes and locks up. Just food for thought when you replace with any new motor. 1600kv is the minimum I would go IF running 6s. Your 2 motor choices are best for an 8s ESC setup IMHO. For the way you describe running, Big air beating and all.
Just me.

I agree The stock motor most likely failed from overheating. The windings holding the magnets to the rotor melt when overheated, then, bang goes the rotor. Game over.
1500kv would be the lowest I'd recommend for 6s, otherwise you'll never get any good speeds out of it unless you go running really small spur with the biggest pinion that fits..not ideal. Any of the "over stock" sized motors mentioned should improve performance, keep in mind they also add weight which does affect handling. More importantly is big can motors combined with big air jumping may force a motor mount upgrade too.. you can install O rings to the can to provide extra support to prevent the motor mount from bending.
I like the Surpass/Hobbystar motors for the money, I've had good luck with them. Can't really go wrong with Hobbywing either. Keep a close eye on motor temps whenever anything changes, such as gearing, tire size, ambient temps, ect.. good luck!! Nice truck too!!

 

[SrC]

I would add that One brand's KV rating of a motor rarely equates to the same KV rating of another brand in many cases . Because the Rotor Diameter length and Stator's dimensions and length, vary by brand. With my BLX motor analyzer it is rare to see KV readings accurate per specs. The cheaper motors more so. I've seen variances of 50-150kv's OFF spec. And are usually lower KV's than advertised, FWIW. Just food for thought. But KV is the only way to get a rough calculation of a Motor's RPM's. For off road applications you rarely want to run any motor at the higher end of the RPM band always Maxxed out consistently. This can happen if you are way Undergeared. With Speed running, you do want to always reach that Max RPM, for best PB's. If the motor reaches 212F+ internally at the rotor and consistently, The Rotor will let go/ explode from these temperatures. If not, the BB's will explode and take out the Rotor anyway. The main reason I am big on frequent Motor maintenance and BB lubing, replacing the 2 BB's well before they might explode. Ceramic Motor BB's when I do replace them. They handle High temps way better. Worth the few extra coins IMHO.

 

[KnowAir]

I would add that One brand's KV rating of a motor rarely equates to the same KV rating of another brand in many cases . Because the Rotor Diameter length and Stator's dimensions and length, vary by brand. With my BLX motor analyzer it is rare to see KV readings accurate per specs. The cheaper motors more so. I've seen variances of 50-150kv's OFF spec. And are usually lower KV's than advertised, FWIW. Just food for thought. But KV is the only way to get a rough calculation of a Motor's RPM's. For off road applications you rarely want to run any motor at the higher end of the RPM band always Maxxed out consistently. This can happen if you are way Undergeared. With Speed running, you do want to always reach that Max RPM, for best PB's. If the motor reaches 212F+ internally at the rotor and consistently, The Rotor will let go/ explode from these temperatures. If not, the BB's will explode and take out the Rotor anyway. The main reason I am big on frequent Motor maintenance and BB lubing, replacing the 2 BB's well before they might explode. Ceramic Motor BB's when I do replace them. They handle High temps way better. Worth the few extra coins IMHO.

Good stuff With proper maintenance and use, a brushless motor can last indefinitely..

 

[SUISLIDE]

That's a lot of info to process.. im going to read in depth to everyone's responses and get back to you all with a somewhat intelligent response. Thank you all again for the information. Definitely shed some light on aspects I did not take into consideration

 

[SUISLIDE]

well after thinking long , and hard ( giggity ) ive decided the 4292 is goin in , and im taking the max6 to throw in my sons Notorious . Pairing the 4292 1500Kv with the MMX8s . i don't mind a little underperforming on the 6s side , but i like the idea of being "able" to run 8s if i get a wild hair up my ass . i would have been in a pretty hard to run spot if i did go below 1500 . i thank you all for guiding me in this process . i didnt really know how different motors Kv went along with the voltage AND amperage they can handle . looks like running on 6s 100c with a taller gear will keep me below the peak amp draw while running 8s 100c will put me near 100% on voltage and with a lower gear drop amperage consumption . if im mathing correctly the 1500Kv looks like the happy medium between a dedicated 6s or 8s build with the ability to take some punishment on ether 6 OR 8s . if im wrong , guess i got a new can for my 1st gen revo , or electric conversion on my LST-XXL
oh ! forgot to add that i chose the MMX8s due to the tunability with motor timing and sh*t to help along with temps if i run into an issue . that and switching tunes on the fly via bluetooth