Outcast Reentering the hobby and I want an Outcast 4S v2.5

[Johnboy5586]

Can diff fluid ratios help with that at all? Thicker/thinner F&R? Center? If say, 60/500/30 would be the 'standard' & smaller LP's help.

I've got 30 front 500 middle and 10 rear, it has helped some but nothing to write home about

 

[Just a hobby]

Take my mistake as a lesson. I bought a limitless roller, I couldn't resist!
No where to really open it up. Thought I could find a spot,no luck. I haven't run it in awhile. I don't do shelf queens. It's a v1 that isn't worth much now nothing wrong with it . Tires alone are too expensive for my pocket. It is going up for sale soon, need a box big enough.

 

[332_RC]

I've got 30 front 500 middle and 10 rear, it had helped some but nothing to write home about

I'm running 60/375/30 on my Noto. Does pretty well I guess, turning, & a 35kg servo.

 

[Just a hobby]

I don't think the outcast and notorious were designed to be awesome and nimble handling rc trucks. Just a stunt truck for sick arial tricks. Anything wider than longer stance just won't handle well to a point unfortunately.

 

[Garcbomber]

Can diff fluid ratios help with that at all? Thicker/thinner F&R? Center? If say, 60/500/30 would be the 'standard' & smaller LP's help. (Noto as a example)

To a point lighter fluid will allow the inside tire during turning with less traction to diff out and create instability depending on terrain friction. With that light of fluid in the rear, do you ever have an accidental donut occur?

There’s a happy medium where most people stay with 60k/30k front rear but personally run 100k/60k since a lot of my bash is loose dirt and grass. I know when my rear diff needs thickening when I’m circling corners mid race when the fluid heats up and thins further.

 

[332_RC]

To a point lighter fluid will allow the inside tire during turning with less traction to diff out and create instability depending on terrain friction. With that light of fluid in the rear, do you ever have an accidental donut occur?

There’s a happy medium where most people stay with 60k/30k front rear but personally run 100k/60k since a lot of my bash is loose dirt and grass. I know when my rear diff needs thickening when I’m circling corners mid race when the fluid heats up and thins further.

Yes, what you described, yes, it needs, I think, 45k-50k rear min. Running 6s backflips. It wobbles on a wheelie. I've got that Hudy 50k from @Rcproponent on the way to see. Haven't considered going further than 60k in the front, would have to mix with other fluid I have to get say 70k or higher. I mixed 500/200 at a 70/30 ratio to get 375k center using a silicone fluid calculator I found on here. Technically I could mix 60/30 to get 50 but I nabbed the Hudy.

 

[AshBegash]

3S is powerful, and 4s is very powerful, I would say to have 2 batteries, 3S and 4S, so you get your hands used back to the hobby, welcome back and have fun,

 

[Rcproponent]

Yes, what you described, yes, it needs, I think, 45k-50k rear min. Running 6s backflips. It wobbles on a wheelie. I've got that Hudy 50k from @Rcproponent on the way to see. Haven't considered going further than 60k in the front, would have to mix with other fluid I have to get say 70k or higher. I mixed 500/200 at a 70/30 ratio to get 375k center using a silicone fluid calculator I found on here. Technically I could mix 60/30 to get 50 but I nabbed the Hudy.

Package in route buddy!

 

[TR2N]

So, after a few more days of thinking about what to get I came to the following conclusion:

• Dropped the Outcast and replaced it with the Kraton. I think it simply fits better to my driving style. Even it is uglier than the Outcast.. But i have the option to modify it to an Outcast if I want to
• The TEKEN 4S from Team Magic

Now I try to consider what is better. An all composite Modell with a m2c bar or a "real" 1:8 truggy with metal chassis, metal shocks and metal shock towers..

They are both in the same price range and inside my budget I want to spend.

 

[Just a hobby]

So, after a few more days of thinking about what to get I came to the following conclusion:

• Dropped the Outcast and replaced it with the Kraton. I think it simply fits better to my driving style. Even it is uglier than the Outcast.. But i have the option to modify it to an Outcast if I want to
• The TEKEN 4S from Team Magic

Now I try to consider what is better. An all composite Modell with a m2c bar or a "real" 1:8 truggy with metal chassis, metal shocks and metal shock towers..

They are both in the same price range and inside my budget I want to spend.

Throw

 

[TR2N]

Throw

The Dart hit the OUTCAST! Ordered!

 

[blaster27]

Good for you, finding the rig YOU want is half the battle. You will enjoy it more because it's what you want.

 

[Just a hobby]

NICE!! Your going to enjoy that truck. Try cranking up the brakes and see if you can get the truck to do rolling endoes. It's tricky and doable!

The Dart hit the OUTCAST! Ordered!

What color?

 

[TR2N]

What color?

Gun Metal!

 

[Just a hobby]

Gun Metal!

My second choice. Awesome color!!

 

[f_noggle]

Hello there,

after a small break for a few years I want to get back into the hobby with an Outcast 4S v2.5. I am not a basher and do not big jumps, just want to have some fun on the track.

As I want to start over: Is the power on 3S batteries suitable for a beginner or should I start right with 4S on the beginning?
As I said, I am not a basher - but makes the m2c bash bar sense to make it more bullet proof? And makes the extra weight of the bar a difference in durability to the drive train as it has to pull more weight?

Thank you and kindly regards!

To answer your question about 3s, when I first got my V2 4s, I ran a few 3s packs through it. I was blown away at how well it performed. I was no newb either. I have almost every arrma from 3s all the way up to the 8s Kraton. I was uncertain of it's capability to handle 4s as I own the v1 4s rigs and know they can barely handle 4s.
Not being a heavy basher, I do not know if you need the overkill of the M2C bash bar. I take mine to bmx tracks, skate parks and off built ramps and have yet to have any issue.

Good luck with your adventures and HAVE FUN!

 

[TR2N]

Ordered 4S packs for my Outcast, but I will dial down the throttle channel on the remote to carefully approach the capabilities of the car. I am eager to check this out!

 

[Glitch]

Ordered 4S packs for my Outcast, but I will dial down the throttle channel on the remote to carefully approach the capabilities of the car. I am eager to check this out!

The 4s outcast is a blast. It can do standing backflips on 15t

 

[Jluther@becoinc]

Hello there,

after a small break for a few years I want to get back into the hobby with an Outcast 4S v2.5. I am not a basher and do not big jumps, just want to have some fun on the track.

As I want to start over: Is the power on 3S batteries suitable for a beginner or should I start right with 4S on the beginning?
As I said, I am not a basher - but makes the m2c bash bar sense to make it more bullet proof? And makes the extra weight of the bar a difference in durability to the drive train as it has to pull more weight?

Thank you and kindly regards!

If you plan to run on a track and want something that handles well the Outcast is awfully wheelie prone. You can’t drive with the front wheels off the ground. The Kraton is much more stable. For just a few more dollars the V5 Kraton is a much better investment. You can run it on 4s and upgrade to 6s or even 8s. It has a lot more aftermarket options and is a lot tougher. I have a 4s Kraton and it’s a great truck but I seldom use it because I like the 6s so much better. What ever you get if it’s Arrma you’ll love it.

 

[TR2N]

I had a 6S some years ago and spent so much money upgrading it to an almost EXB. I loved the truck but I sold it some day because I had no time to drive it nowadays.
I want to avoid spending so much money (at least for now), so I am looking at a special price point and the 4S line got so much good feedback so I considered them as my go to for now.