RPM and Popping Dog Bones

[olds97_lss]

Just shaved a mm or so off the left side with my dremel... very precise. lol! I left the shim off entirely and cut about 1.5mm off the top and 1mm off the bottom. Looks about the same as the right side. I'm sure not fussing with the right side will have some ill side effect... but after my nitro nightmare this weekend, I can barely hold onto a dremel still today long enough to do what I already did. Which means, the old body is probably going to have to endure at least one more weekend of stupidity.

Still need to wrench on my savage to sort out whatever the f is going on there...

 

[Notorious J]

I ran my Noto yesterday, and I ran it really hard. I was jumping off ramps and steep embankments that were at lest 10 feet high. I knarled the rear tower, t2t did it's job, but turned the tower in to a pretzel. Broke the rear brace stop/mount, even broke a shock rod end. The one thing that didn't happen, was an axle popping out. I removed both camber shims, top and bottom, and that seems to have alleviated the problem. For bashing in dirt and grass, I'm just not convinced the camber is going to have any real affect. The hubs are so sloppy to begin with, that the play is impossible to correct without shims between the hub and bearing. For WOT type play, not having the axles pop out, definitely outweighs the camber, caster and toe not being perfect. No broken a-arms or bent hinge pins either btw.

 

[Lazy Bushman]

I did a quick test on 4s and the dog bone stayed in for change after ditching the GPM bone and going back to stock. I only took 2x3s batteries away with me and the soldered connectors came off on one so I was restricted to only 4s which is not a great test, nor could I do any jumps but I hit every hold or bump in the ground I could find and no issues. Again not great test, so I will try and find some time to go for a blat this weekend and test more fully.

Like you @Notorious J I don't worry too much about wheel alignment but will do what I can with what I have.

 

[olds97_lss]

I did a quick test on 4s and the dog bone stayed in for change after ditching the GPM bone and going back to stock. I only took 2x3s batteries away with me and the soldered connectors came off on one so I was restricted to only 4s which is not a great test, nor could I do any jumps but I hit every hold or bump in the ground I could find and no issues. Again not great test, so I will try and find some time to go for a blat this weekend and test more fully.

Like you @Notorious J I don't worry too much about wheel alignment but will do what I can with what I have.

I didn't start having the issue with my outcast until I started running 6S. I ran 4S for 9 months, 6S for 1. Then the popping out issue started and has happened pretty much every run.

 

[SrC]

The RPM arms stretch….that is what I believe causes Dog pops. RPM nylons even in the RPM wing braces show signs of stretching.
Although they appear to have great impact memory, they actually stretch as well. My RPM wing mounts although didn't snap, they bent and actually stretched. This brought my Wing to angle up like 20 Degrees. LOL. Does RPM warranty only snapped or cracked parts or will they only warranty bent and stretched parts? LOL

 

[Lazy Bushman]

You could always ask them as I have no idea. I have found RPM one of the most responsive companies in terms of after sales service that's for sure and that goes a long way with me. How much flex there should be is something that I don't think any manufacture will get right a there are pro's and con's of both so it will boil down to personal preference of the owner. Those who want zero probably buy aluminium but risk of snapping stuff....introduce more flex and you deal to that issue but create others. Best thing I think we can do is help each other mange the issues and provide feedback to the manufacturers so they use the info to improve their products over time

 

[SrC]

I ran my Noto yesterday, and I ran it really hard. I was jumping off ramps and steep embankments that were at lest 10 feet high. I knarled the rear tower, t2t did it's job, but turned the tower in to a pretzel. Broke the rear brace stop/mount, even broke a shock rod end. The one thing that didn't happen, was an axle popping out. I removed both camber shims, top and bottom, and that seems to have alleviated the problem. For bashing in dirt and grass, I'm just not convinced the camber is going to have any real affect. The hubs are so sloppy to begin with, that the play is impossible to correct without shims between the hub and bearing. For WOT type play, not having the axles pop out, definitely outweighs the camber, caster and toe not being perfect. No broken a-arms or bent hinge pins either btw.

Removing both shims is the best bet. No more dog pops. Just makes sense. Camber angle takes a back seat vs. the dog pops.. I agree.

 

[Notorious J]

Removing both shims is the best bet. No more dog pops. Just makes sense. Camber angle takes a back seat vs. the dog pops.. I agree.

After three good bash/jump sessions, this fix is holding up 100%.?

 

[Tomberland]

I've installed RPM arms all around on my Kraton some months ago (during the winter). At first I did not have any problems, but now I suddenly started having some problems too with dogbones popping out the diff cups on the front of my Kraton. I started reading online about this problem and I've found out that many people dealt with this problem. I think the weather (outside temperature) has a lot to do with this problem also. Especially if you're running RPM arms. Now it is getting hotter outside. The RPM arms are very flexible, but in the winter they are more stiff. Now that it's hotter outside the nylon material from the RPM arms is even more flexible and that's when the problems started. I've read up on this problem on different forums, and I've found the most easy solution is to remove the shims as discussed here before. I've also limited the shock travel by installing a rubber grommet on the shock shaft. Both these changes I've made helped me to illuminate the problem. At least during the last test run on 4S the dogbones/CVD's stayed put! I will do some more testing and jumping on 6S. But I'm pretty confident it's solved.

When the problem will come back I might trim down the A-arms a bit, like suggested here before. Maybe cutting/shaving down 1-2mm should be enough to completely illuminate the problem. But I hope that will not be necessary.

Thanks for all the good tips and idea's here

 

[PowerDubs]

Fingers crossed I am hoping to receive parts today so I can make some measurements, that may be a factory plug-and-play solution. I will let you know if it works or not.

 

[slick2500]

Fingers crossed I am hoping to receive parts today so I can make some measurements, that may be a factory plug-and-play solution. I will let you know if it works or not.

Team Durango parts?

 

[Lazy Bushman]

Fingers crossed I am hoping to receive parts today so I can make some measurements, that may be a factory plug-and-play solution. I will let you know if it works or not.

If you are measuring the stock vs RPM I think the difference is something like 0.025mmm

 

[olds97_lss]

Just shaved a mm or so off the left side with my dremel... very precise. lol! I left the shim off entirely and cut about 1.5mm off the top and 1mm off the bottom. Looks about the same as the right side. I'm sure not fussing with the right side will have some ill side effect... but after my nitro nightmare this weekend, I can barely hold onto a dremel still today long enough to do what I already did. Which means, the old body is probably going to have to endure at least one more weekend of stupidity.

Still need to wrench on my savage to sort out whatever the f is going on there...

I ran mine after this pretty hard with big air and some nasty tumbles. Didn't pop out on me the entire run to LVC. Finally!

 

[Lazy Bushman]

Mine has been fine since dumping the GKA dog bones and going back to stock and removing the shims

 

[Notorious J]

Since removing the camber shims, never had one pop out. Broke two hubs with pillow balls popping out, but that was from shear force on tough landings.

 

[Jluther@becoinc]

I used a round rasp bit in a drill to countersink my pillow balls into my top and bottom A-arms about 2-3mm So far I have not had an axle pop out of the diff

 

[Lazy Bushman]

That's a novel approach

 

[Jluther@becoinc]

It seems to work haven’t popped one since

 

[Notorious J]

I used a round rasp bit in a drill to countersink my pillow balls into my top and bottom A-arms about 2-3mm So far I have not had an axle pop out of the diff

Picture of the bit you used?

 

[Jluther@becoinc]

Ok I’m at work now but I’ll send one as soon as I get home. It’s about 3/8” diameter rounded on the end and has rough burrs on it. I think I got it at Lowes