Simple solution for preventing battery tray deployment (6s)

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Should I feel lucky that my 2 year old battery tray hasn't given me problems?
Big air onto the roof or any 90 degree landing will pull the screws out of the plastic. Once enough get stripped it's game over.
 
Great thing is if you ever do strip those screws you can just drill out those two, add the t nuts and they will hold fast.
Hopefully if it does it doesn't pull the receiver box and wires with it. Big batteries tend to do it even more. I have a 6200mah 6s which really does a number on the battery trays and everything else because of the weight. Nose landing with a loose battery tray is never good. Sometimes if you land on the roof and drive off you don't realize your tray has broken loose then a nose or rear landing breaks the whole mess loose.
 
That's nearly what happened with me luckly i crashed (very slowly) into a goal post so checked it over and saw the tray hanging out lol
That's nearly what happened with me luckly i crashed (very slowly) into a goal post so checked it over and saw the tray hanging out lol
 
Big air onto the roof or any 90 degree landing will pull the screws out of the plastic. Once enough get stripped it's game over.
I'm surprised I haven't ripped mine out yet. I know one or two of the screws is just there as a spectator. I've had quite a few lawn dart landings with my outcast and even with the 2x6200mah 3S packs, it still holds. I have a bag of 50 or 100 of those inserts though, should probably just put them on so I don't have to worry about it.
 
I'm surprised I haven't ripped mine out yet. I know one or two of the screws is just there as a spectator. I've had quite a few lawn dart landings with my outcast and even with the 2x6200mah 3S packs, it still holds. I have a bag of 50 or 100 of those inserts though, should probably just put them on so I don't have to worry about it.
Your tray clearly had been touched my the Hand of God.

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Your tray clearly had been touched my the Hand of God.

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I know! I've seen it happen in your videos often enough that I'm truly surprised I haven't had it happen. I've hit stuff so hard that I've deformed the chassis between the center diff and front bulk, shattered front bulks and sheared bolts off... yet it still holds.
 
Just did this to mine.

Home depot near me sells the 4mm. I went ahead and purchased them and am super happy with the results.
 

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Been running this mod in the Kraton since I first posted. No issues with the pad or the flat part of the nuts sticking up a bit. If I was running softcase lipos and getting some big air I would double up the pad. First layer with holes to make up the difference and second layer without them.
I could not find that size t nut at Home Depot or Lowe’s here in the US. Maybe a store with more hardware may have them. I imagine in other parts of the world where metric hardware is more common they’d be easy to find. The place I linked to got them out to me quickly. Shipping was a little high but not outrageous.
Generally Ace hardware has a way better selection of stuff like this! I've had to use them for performing miracles in the field for work!
Since I'm starting my kraton v4 6s build tomorrow I'll be doing this as well but going to 4mm?Thank you for the awesome tip! ????
 
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Kinda looked like the Rock found religion at first scroll!
I installed the t-nuts tonight. Figured I may as well to it to avoid having a bash session ended prematurely due to the battery tray ripping out.

I don't know how you guys got the nut to sink into the plastic, but I munged up 2 of the 4 using long nose vice grips and a c-clamp. I drilled the hole out first and the threaded part fit snug, but I couldn't get the teeth of the flange part to sink into the plastic. Then I put my 100w soldering iron at about 80%, held it on the nut for a bit while applying pressure and then they sunk in and sat nice. I also cut half the flange off for the two holes that are right against the battery tray's edge.
 
I installed the t-nuts tonight. Figured I may as well to it to avoid having a bash session ended prematurely due to the battery tray ripping out.

I don't know how you guys got the nut to sink into the plastic, but I munged up 2 of the 4 using long nose vice grips and a c-clamp. I drilled the hole out first and the threaded part fit snug, but I couldn't get the teeth of the flange part to sink into the plastic. Then I put my 100w soldering iron at about 80%, held it on the nut for a bit while applying pressure and then they sunk in and sat nice. I also cut half the flange off for the two holes that are right against the battery tray's edge.
I used a long screw to pull it down, then a small screw to hold it. Pulled down fairly easy, but still using a piece of tire rubber in the tray, just in case
 
I used a long screw to pull it down, then a small screw to hold it. Pulled down fairly easy, but still using a piece of tire rubber in the tray, just in case
I did something similar. Long screw to pull it down and the. I used a Dremel to cut the screw end that was sticking up. Your idea is better though. Good job ???
 
I used a long screw to pull it down, then a small screw to hold it. Pulled down fairly easy, but still using a piece of tire rubber in the tray, just in case
I tried that and it ripped the threads out of the screw and damaged the threads in the T-nut, then I had to pry the stupid thing out and put another in. Surprised it didn't just break the head off the bolt. I was using a 2.5mm cap head through a piece of steel stock so the screw head didn't just drive itself into the battery tray leg. Figured that was a better idea than using a tiny 2mm flush mount.
 
I tried that and it ripped the threads out of the screw and damaged the threads in the T-nut, then I had to pry the stupid thing out and put another in. Surprised it didn't just break the head off the bolt. I was using a 2.5mm cap head through a piece of steel stock so the screw head didn't just drive itself into the battery tray leg. Figured that was a better idea than using a tiny 2mm flush mount.
Did you drill out the hole first? @Jimbobjr mentioned to do that first. I used my caliper to measure the shaft of the t-nut, and went a hair larger.
 
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