Kraton Skid plates - 4s Kraton v2

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pierre1111

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Does anyone know of any skid plates for a Kraton 4s v2? Model ara4408v2. Preferably stainless. Bonus if it covers the entire chassis too not just the differentials

All the ones I’ve seen were for the bigger 8s 1:5 and 6s 1:8 kratons. Couldn’t find anything for the 1:10 4s version.
 
Crap. Gonna need a brace not just skid plates.

And whose bright idea was it to use plastic for the shaft cups and thread the grub screw into that? Lame Arrma.

IMG_2127.jpeg
 
Any thoughts on how this happened? All the chassis breakage pics I’ve seen from high jumps etc were cracked somewhere in the middle of the chassis.
 
Any thoughts on how this happened? All the chassis breakage pics I’ve seen from high jumps etc were cracked somewhere in the middle of the chassis.

1. What's your driving style?

2. What hit your rig?? How fast?

3. What surface(s) did you Bash on?

Let us know and we'll be able to diagnose your situation better. 👍
 
I must have missed the thread on the scam alert about tbone, thanks Tex.

And the only chassis skids I’ve found are for the shorter chassis like vorteks and granite.
 
I honestly don’t know what hit took it out. It was driving normally - packed it up and took it home for the day when my batteries died and found this.

Mostly grass dirt and rocks. Found a skate park locally that had a ramp. It was maybe a foot high though.

I don’t think a brace would fix this. The M2c one at least only connects the insides of the differential cases, not to the outside ends. Maybe a aluminum differential case top if there is such a thing.
 
M2C Bar would have saved your chassis but breakage travels to the weakest link. Probably would have taken out the arm, shock, or hinge pins anyway. It stinks but breaks happen. No such thing as unbreakable. The M2C bar plus upgraded hing pins is probably the best you will do. At least them the busted bits could be spares and an easy fix.
 
I’m open minded. How would the m2c bar have helped if the break was after the bar ends? If I’m looking at the v2 bar right it ends where my finger is at

I mean if I was jumping it from 10+ ft I’d expect it I was just surprised that it happened when the highest jump attempted was a foot.

image.jpg
 
Yes the 2.5 bar goes all the way to the front but unfortunately the back stops short at the same spot, doesn’t cover the differential.

This is from their page:

The new 2.5 chassis has a different profile on the bottom, so will it bolt up to the 2.0? Yes, the hole pattern is the same.

Will is fit properly? No.

Aha - looks like this will work - yikes on the price tag though.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165648758268
 
So the shoppable exploded diagram has a different part number for the chassis vs the pdf one. 320799 xlwb v2 vs 320640 xlwb.

Any experience with this v2 chassis? One note on the description mentions adding material in high stress areas
 
Looks like the result of a high speed head-on, or maybe an end over end. Nothing that can't be fixed rather easily. Parts are readily available. If your truly considering making it bombproof, it will end up weighing that much more, too, affecting the performance. The only way you're going to have an unbreakable vehicle is by leaving it on the shelf. (And we all know that's not an option) I got an M2C chassis brace for my Kraton 4s V2.5, but I can't offer any pros or cons as yet, because I still have yet to take mine on it's first run. Winter has still got us in it's grip here. Minus 25 Celcius with another 14" of snow yesterday. Good luck in your endeavour. Let us know what you decide... 👍
 
Well it may become a shelf queen after fixing if it’s this fragile lol j/k

Yes, this time it will get a brace. I really would rather have the rcmadlabz one that covers both diffs.

It’ll need driveline cups too. Or maybe metal driveshafts while it’s apart. At least in the rears.

I keep reading about 6s shocks too for a 4s upgrade. If they help keep things from bottoming out and stressing things it may be worth it.
 
The RC Madlabz chassis braces go all the way front to back and use all the screw holes.

Dunno if they’ve updated for the V2.5 yet though.
 
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