Outcast Slipping gears

[kartracer93]

My outcast is slipping gears and have rebuilt diffs with thicker oil and shimmed them between the bulk head and diff on the front and back diffs and it’s still slipping not sure what it could be other than the pinion inside the bulk heads are to loose or damaged However they looked to be fine not sure I need to I need to shim inside the diffs inside the gearing on the gear side of the diffs it seems no matter what I do it just keeps slipping

 

[gotnitro]

Check the diff cup grub screws or broken pins? If you only have slippage and not hearing any grinding it should be an easy find/fix.

 

[kartracer93]

Check the diff cup grub screws or broken pins? If you only have slippage and not hearing any grinding it should be an easy find/fix.

It’s like it’s not putting all the power to the ground the front tires are spinning before the rear ones like they are lagging behind as well

 

[gotnitro]

Ahh, that’s your center diff. You need to go heavier in the fluid.

 

[kartracer93]

It has 300k I put in yesterday way ahead of you unless you think I need heavier fluid

Ahh, that’s your center diff. You need to go heavier in the fluid.

 

[gotnitro]

It has 300k I put in yesterday way ahead of you unless you think I need heavier fluid

But are you?

When you pack a diff with fluid, the second you stab throttle, you get CD action. That action spins and blows the GEL-fluid to the sides. You need to reopen it and pack it in to where it’s oozing out the sides and screw holes as you tighten it down.

Truggy’s are made to unload a bit in the front. That’s how all race truggy’s are built. I understand this is a basher and you want more rear traction (or should I say gear salad maker). If that doesn’t do what you are looking for, they make 500k.

 

[slick2500]

But are you?

When you pack a diff with fluid, the second you stab throttle, you get CD action. That action spins and blows the GEL-fluid to the sides. You need to reopen it and pack it in to where it’s oozing out the sides and screw holes as you tighten it down.

Truggy’s are made to unload a bit in the front. That’s how all race truggy’s are built. I understand this is a basher and you want more rear traction (or should I say gear salad maker). If that doesn’t do what you are looking for, they make 500k.

I let it ooze out the bleeder hole in the side.

 

[Garcbomber]

Have any video showing the issue? Could be outdrive pins, input gear, or input set screw stripped(presuming you verified teeth within the planetary/sun/ring assembly). I run 20M in the Notorious center, basically packed in like an earplug.

I’ve also had cup inserts push through the plastic case due to rpm heat and act like a skip from the outdrive pin on the sun gear engagement under heavy load.

 

[RC Steve]

When you fill a diff, fill the diff case about 1/4 of the way up with fluid before you put the spider gears in. This will eliminate any chance of there being an air pocket under your gears. A full diff is always more consistent than a half full one.

 

[gotnitro]

I let it ooze out the bleeder hole in the side.

I want it coming out all holes baby!

 

[BrokenBasher]

I let it ooze out the bleeder hole in the side.

I may be doing something wrong but I thought that hole with the grub screw was just so you can pull out the pin that holds the out drive in place but not to bleed fluid out.

I like to let my diffs sit and let the air bubbles out too while spinning the out drive to get that fluid good in the spider gears.

 

[razorrc]

First off, you need to be 100% clear on whether your gears are skipping/stripping and making nasty metal-on-metal noises, or if the car is fine and all you're complaining about is some of the power bleeds to the front.

From your other thread, it sounds like the former. If that's the case, none of the suggestions about center diff fluids and stuff are going to help.

 

[slick2500]

I may be doing something wrong but I thought that hole with the grub screw was just so you can pull out the pin that holds the out drive in place but not to bleed fluid out.

I like to let my diffs sit and let the air bubbles out too while spinning the out drive to get that fluid good in the spider gears.

On most other diffs it is for removing the pin, Arrma 6s vehicles you don't have to remove the grub to get the pin out so not sure why they even have it, but it also can be used as a bleeder hole for excess diff fluid.

 

[kartracer93]

Have any video showing the issue? Could be outdrive pins, input gear, or input set screw stripped(presuming you verified teeth within the planetary/sun/ring assembly). I run 20M in the Notorious center, basically packed in like an earplug.

I’ve also had cup inserts push through the plastic case due to rpm heat and act like a skip from the outdrive pin on the sun gear engagement under heavy load.

First off, you need to be 100% clear on whether your gears are skipping/stripping and making nasty metal-on-metal noises, or if the car is fine and all you're complaining about is some of the power bleeds to the front.

From your other thread, it sounds like the former. If that's the case, none of the suggestions about center diff fluids and stuff are going to help.

It’s definitely skipping

Have any video showing the issue? Could be outdrive pins, input gear, or input set screw stripped(presuming you verified teeth within the planetary/sun/ring assembly). I run 20M in the Notorious center, basically packed in like an earplug.

I’ve also had cup inserts push through the plastic case due to rpm heat and act like a skip from the outdrive pin on the sun gear engagement under heavy load.

 

[razorrc]

Then ignore 90% of the suggestions in this thread.

If you’ve already replaced ring and pinion gears, are shimming diffs properly, then my bet is your diff housing is cracked. Oftentimes you have to completely disassemble down to the housing to see small cracks.

 

[Garcbomber]

You should easily be able to see the issue by placing it against a wall with the body off and going forward to mimic under load. Just trace the power transfer from the motor’s pinion into center diff assembly through the center dogbones to front and rear diff inputs. This will isolate the issue when troubleshooting moving forward. Doesn’t take an engineer or name matching avatar logo to figure that one out. If you want to video that it’d be an educational reference video for future concerns.

It’s a learn as you go hobby, enjoy the experience

 

[kartracer93]

Have any video showing the issue? Could be outdrive pins, input gear, or input set screw stripped(presuming you verified teeth within the planetary/sun/ring assembly). I run 20M in the Notorious center, basically packed in like an earplug.

I’ve also had cup inserts push through the plastic case due to rpm heat and act like a skip from the outdrive pin on the sun gear engagement under heavy load.

Can you send me a link to the video