Speed Runners ~ How Fast Did You Go Today?

[K-BASH]

Bout got her ready to run,waiting on shocks so I can slam it to tha ground,chassis brace,couple other smalls.

 

[Notorious J]

It's the Felony rear diff gears, they are 15/42 so it's like gearing up a good amount over the 13/43 on the Typhon gearing. Input it into the speed calculator and check out the jump in speed from it

The V2 Infraction and Felony rear diffs have a larger pinion to add more gear ratio. 42/15 is better than the 43/13 of the Typhon and V1 Infraction/Limitless.

I've been trying to get some 2.80 diffs for bout month. gotta be fast to get one off jennyz.sell out quik.gain roughly 30mph on average setup compared to the 3.3 typhon diffs.

Ok, so if I new a guy that might be interested in this swap, would I tell him he has to do both the front and rear, or is switching just the rear gonna work?

 

[Edough13]

Ok, so if I new a guy that might be interested in this swap, would I tell him he has to do both the front and rear, or is switching just the rear gonna work?

You can tell "him" he would need to do both unless "he" runs different size tires like the Felony

Ok, so if I new a guy that might be interested in this swap, would I tell him he has to do both the front and rear, or is switching just the rear gonna work?

You input that gearing in the calculator and see the huge gain?? Pretty awesome right!

 

[Notorious J]

@jondilly1974 @Edough13 @K-BASH,
I may or may not have ordered 2 sets of GP5 spurs and pinions from my lhs who has them in stock and likely would be picked up the same day. And I may or may not be putting them on the front and rear difs of my T6 before the weekend. If I did, what weight of fluid would I be more comfortable in using to optimize straight line performance? Lot of big ifs here

 

[K-BASH]

@jondilly1974 @Edough13 @K-BASH,
I may or may not have ordered 2 sets of GP5 spurs and pinions from my lhs who has them in stock and likely would be picked up the same day. And I may or may not be putting them on the front and rear difs of my T6 before the weekend. If I did, what weight of fluid would I be more comfortable in using to optimize straight line performance? Lot of big ifs here
View attachment 134610

I 20 million all 3. Not sure what motor your running, but 25/46 will get u close to 100mph on 6s..ole lady went crazy with some sharpies on typhon last night.lol I like it thou.it'll most likely get crashed up anyway...I expect to total out car.so if it happens I'll be ready to except the loss...

 

[jondilly1974]

@jondilly1974 @Edough13 @K-BASH,
I may or may not have ordered 2 sets of GP5 spurs and pinions from my lhs who has them in stock and likely would be picked up the same day. And I may or may not be putting them on the front and rear difs of my T6 before the weekend. If I did, what weight of fluid would I be more comfortable in using to optimize straight line performance? Lot of big ifs here
View attachment 134610

Use as thick as you can to semi-lock the diffs. We don’t need to turn under power and that is what a diff is for. We would prefer to have spools instead of diffs to prevent one tire from diffing out and getting all of the power.

 

[Notorious J]

I 20 million all 3. Not sure what motor your running, but 25/46 will get u close to 100mph on 6s..ole lady went crazy with some sharpies on typhon last night.lol I like it thou.it'll most likely get crashed up anyway...I expect to total out car.so if it happens I'll be ready to except the loss...

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I've got the Limitless spool in there already running 29/34. Already got to 112 mph on the stock 2050kv with stock front and rear difs. I know there's 115 sitting in it already if I just get moving faster. Gonna take the motor out and replace the bearings with ceramics I already have, clean it, then run it with the new GP5 gears. Thanks @jondilly1974 for the tip on weights. Most I have at the moment is 1M, which will have to do, and I can't see myself spooling the T6 f/r as it is still a capable parking lot basher, and I don't want to limit it to straight lines. I can always switch out fluid easily when needed.

 

[jondilly1974]

I've got the Limitless spool in there already running 29/34. Already got to 112 mph on the stock 2050kv with stock front and rear difs. I know there's 115 sitting in it already if I just get moving faster. Gonna take the motor out and replace the bearings with ceramics I already have, clean it, then run it with the new GP5 gears. Thanks @jondilly1974 for the tip on weights. Most I have at the moment is 1M, which will have to do, and I can't see myself spooling the T6 f/r as it is still a capable parking lot basher, and I don't want to limit it to straight lines. I can always switch out fluid easily when needed.

If it were me, I would have diff cases built for your intended use. Locked for speed runs and open for bashing. 1M is pretty thick and would be ok. I use silicon ear plugs in my T3S. I have spools in the Infraction. I will probably use plugs in my Mojave too.

 

[Notorious J]

If it were me, I would have diff cases built for your intended use. Locked for speed runs and open for bashing. 1M is pretty thick and would be ok. I use silicon ear plugs in my T3S. I have spools in the Infraction. I will probably use plugs in my Mojave too.

Thing is, I have a T6S basher too, but strictly for off road. Having the street basher just means I can rip around anywhere and still be able to turn. Might consider building up separate difs with weight changes, but then the pinions would have to come out if I wanted to use the ones that are in there now. Flipping full gearboxes is past the level of where I want to be. I mean really, speed runs are so much more infrequent then bashing, right?

 

[jondilly1974]

Thing is, I have a T6S basher too, but strictly for off road. Having the street basher just means I can rip around anywhere and still be able to turn. Might consider building up separate difs with weight changes, but then the pinions would have to come out if I wanted to use the ones that are in there now. Flipping full gearboxes is past the level of where I want to be. I mean really, speed runs are so much more infrequent then bashing, right?

I have only street bashed a few times. I do way more speed runs, so ymmv. I usually have built diffs ready to drop in. That means the full diff case with pinion and bearings.

 

[K-BASH]

I wanna try these.fully locking all diffs will give tru-awd.imo is needed to get good #'s in the limited distance we have to work with.

 

[jondilly1974]

I wanna try these.fully locking all diffs will give tru-awd.imo is needed to get good #'s in the limited distance we have to work with.

View attachment 134630

That’s the ones I have and am using GP5 gears with.

 

[Notorious J]

I wanna try these.fully locking all diffs will give tru-awd.imo is needed to get good #'s in the limited distance we have to work with.

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There's the bullying again.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Just for reference guys if you are running a "normal KV" motor then your Typhon or Limitless will likely be fine with the original 3.3 diffs until you reach "X" speed where you have run out of room on the motor slider plate to increase your gearing. I have seen many people run the 2.8 diffs and then need to increase their spur gear to a 39t or larger because the diffs changed the final drive so much.

In most cases the GP5 2.8 ratio diffs are best suited for low KV 1/5 scale motors. (800-1600kv) These motors have less RPMs per volt, so the diff ratio helps out getting the wheel speed back up. The efficiency/torque of the big can motors is pretty impressive. I highly recommend using a 56xx or 58mm motor at some point if you can

 

[Notorious J]

Just for reference guys if you are running a "normal KV" motor then your Typhon or Limitless will likely be fine with the original 3.3 diffs until you reach "X" speed where you have run out of room on the motor slider plate to increase your gearing. I have seen many people run the 2.8 diffs and then need to increase their spur gear to a 39t or larger because the diffs changed the final drive so much.

In most cases the GP5 2.8 ratio diffs are best suited for low KV 1/5 scale motors. (800-1600kv) These motors have less RPMs per volt, so the diff ratio helps out getting the wheel speed back up. The efficiency/torque of the big can motors is pretty impressive. I highly recommend using a 56xx or 58mm motor at some point if you can

Sooooo, If I choose to use these 2.8's (front and rear) with my current 29p 34s on 2050kv, should I expect anything unusual when trying to get it up to speed? Am I wasting my time switching out the 3.3's trying to get the most out of that 2050 is what I'm asking.

 

[jondilly1974]

Just for reference guys if you are running a "normal KV" motor then your Typhon or Limitless will likely be fine with the original 3.3 diffs until you reach "X" speed where you have run out of room on the motor slider plate to increase your gearing. I have seen many people run the 2.8 diffs and then need to increase their spur gear to a 39t or larger because the diffs changed the final drive so much.

In most cases the GP5 2.8 ratio diffs are best suited for low KV 1/5 scale motors. (800-1600kv) These motors have less RPMs per volt, so the diff ratio helps out getting the wheel speed back up. The efficiency/torque of the big can motors is pretty impressive. I highly recommend using a 56xx or 58mm motor at some point if you can

Agreed it isn’t critical, but it does allow you to run the lower KV motors without a pizza sized pinion. When I was running the 1250kv last year, I had to buy a 46T pinion. Now there were other factors that I didn’t have perfect too, but not having to run crazy odd gears would be nice.

Sooooo, If I choose to use these 2.8's (front and rear) with my current 29p 34s on 2050kv, should I expect anything unusual when trying to get it up to speed? Am I wasting my time switching out the 3.3's trying to get the most out of that 2050 is what I'm asking.

If your ESC, motor, and batteries can handle the load, just changing to 2.8 gears from 3.3 will add about 20mph in a calculator. Now you still need the space, aero, and traction to see it come to life, but theoretically it is a huge bump.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Sooooo, If I choose to use these 2.8's (front and rear) with my current 29p 34s on 2050kv, should I expect anything unusual when trying to get it up to speed? Am I wasting my time switching out the 3.3's trying to get the most out of that 2050 is what I'm asking.

One of 2 possible scenarios...
1 - it chokes due to gearing torque loss and goes about the same speed or slower & builds up more heat in the motor and ESC
2 - it goes faster and you are happy

This is what the numbers say:
3.3 diffs 34/29 gearing = FD 3.87 (My calculator shows around 110-115 mph on 6s)
2.8 diffs 34/29 gearing = FD 3.28 (My calculator shows 129mph-ish on 6s)

Also anytime you lower that FD number it is similar comparing your speed setup to a basher setup. Less brakes!

I have been as low as a 2.57 FD and the car did fine. When I went to a 2.19 FD it lost speed and gained heat. But this was on 2s running below 100mph, which has different aerodynamic drag versus 110+ speeds.

So basically what I am saying is try it and see what it does. Compare the amps, voltage, and heat from your motor & ESC. There is always a sweet spot before it is over geared for the voltage level you are at. That 2050kv loves 8s btw so you could stick with that motor for a while!

 

[Notorious J]

Agreed it isn’t critical, but it does allow you to run the lower KV motors without a pizza sized pinion. When I was running the 1250kv last year, I had to buy a 46T pinion. Now there were other factors that I didn’t have perfect too, but not having to run crazy odd gears would be nice.

If your ESC, motor, and batteries can handle the load, just changing to 2.8 gears from 3.3 will add about 20mph in a calculator. Now you still need the space, aero, and traction to see it come to life, but theoretically it is a huge bump.

View attachment 134637
View attachment 134638

One of 2 possible scenarios...
1 - it chokes due to gearing torque loss and goes about the same speed or slower & builds up more heat in the motor and ESC
2 - it goes faster and you are happy

This is what the numbers say:
3.3 diffs 34/29 gearing = FD 3.87 (My calculator shows around 110-115 mph on 6s)
2.8 diffs 34/29 gearing = FD 3.28 (My calculator shows 129mph-ish on 6s)

Also anytime you lower that FD number it is similar comparing your speed setup to a basher setup. Less brakes!

I have been as low as a 2.57 FD and the car did fine. When I went to a 2.19 FD it lost speed and gained heat. But this was on 2s running below 100mph, which has different aerodynamic drag versus 110+ speeds.

So basically what I am saying is try it and see what it does. Compare the amps, voltage, and heat from your motor & ESC. There is always a sweet spot before it is over geared for the voltage level you are at. That 2050kv loves 8s btw so you could stick with that motor for a while!

Well than, as the saying goes, I will "Just Do It".

 

[Notorious J]

Happy flying Friday speedrun elite. Wanted to make an observation about battery choices and top speeds. My buddy @Edough13 has had remarkable success with the China Hobby Line batteries since he began using them. As you may or may not know, I purchased a 6000 6s 90c from them recently, and was peaking to see what they would do. Buzzkill crew. The Genss Ace 6000 6s 100c blew it away. This was not the same run where I hit 112 mph, as that was the gensacearespammers. This was the day before running in my original spot where I could only get up to around the 102 mph mark. Genss Ace were a consistent 101 to 102. CNHL, never got up past 98. Now I didn't use the CNHL the day of the 112 runs, but after they're performance the day before, I had decided that only the Genss Ace would make the trip to the new road. I'll give the CNHL another chance once the GP5's are in, but as of right now, the proven performance still goes to Genss Ace. Yes they are more expensive, but as the saying goes, you get you pay for. Rebuttals welcome as always.

 

[jondilly1974]

Happy flying Friday speedrun elite. Wanted to make an observation about battery choices and top speeds. My buddy @Edough13 has had remarkable success with the China Hobby Line batteries since he began using them. As you may or may not know, I purchased a 6000 6s 90c from them recently, and was peaking to see what they would do. Buzzkill crew. The Genss Ace 6000 6s 100c blew it away. This was not the same run where I hit 112 mph, as that was the Genss Ace. This was the day before running in my original spot where I could only get up to around the 102 mph mark. Genss Ace were a consistent 101 to 102. CNHL, never got up past 98. Now I didn't use the CNHL the day of the 112 runs, but after they're performance the day before, I had decided that only the Genss Ace would make the trip to the new road. I'll give the CNHL another chance once the GP5's are in, but as of right now, the proven performance still goes to Genss Ace. Yes they are more expensive, but as the saying goes, you get you pay for. Rebuttals welcome as always.

Which CNHL did you get? They have quite a few different types.