Fireteam Spider gears whats good

[Anthony jaques]

I've been looking for machined spider gears for the fire team looks like vitavon doesn't come with the shaft inserts or shims can't seem to find just spider gears from HR any suggestions would be ausom or if ya know where I can buy just the pin inserts and shims that would be cool

 

[Garcbomber]

Vitavon is billet cnc steel instead of cast.
Mugen makes a nice kit for the spacers.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/mugen-...1d-wIm7ke11b2h4YYi5eh04HoLezMIBQaAn8IEALw_wcB

 

[Anthony jaques]

Vitavon is billet cnc steel instead of cast.

View attachment 320316

Yea that's what I'm looking at but the inserts and shims are missing

Yea that's what I'm looking at but the inserts and shims are missing

I'm building an extra set of diff don't want rcawd but they clearly show the inserts and bushings on them
I'm also curious what are pros and cons of a spool locker in the center

 

[Garcbomber]

updated previous post

 

[Anthony jaques]

Vitavon is billet cnc steel instead of cast.
Mugen makes a nice kit for the spacers.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/mugen-...1d-wIm7ke11b2h4YYi5eh04HoLezMIBQaAn8IEALw_wcB
View attachment 320316

updated previous post

I didn't see inserts there just washers
Metal cross shaft insert I guess is there name

 

[Garcbomber]

You need the tombstones? If you’re going upgrade the gears you should delete them with an aluminum case to make it bulletproof. The plastic cases fail from heat and tighter fitment machined gears will create more naturally from more surface area contact.

 

[Anthony jaques]

I did order Hr aluminum didn't realize the tombstone wasn't needed let me get a pic I mean that looks like it needs those please clerify

 

[Garcbomber]

The arrma case has tombstone delete, it’s a much more robust design.

You’ll have to buy the whole diff internal assembly from Arrma to get new cast tombstones. Nobody machines those, what’s wrong with your old ones? If they have gouges just sand smooth and add another planet shim

 

[Anthony jaques]

I was trying to build an extra set but I see now I got hr cause they are buy 1 get 2 free lol
So I mean I got 3 of them with the still bushing for 18 bucks

 

[Garcbomber]

Make a wanted add, I bet some of the veterans have dozens of them they’d sell for shipping

 

[Anthony jaques]

The arrma case has tombstone delete, it’s a much more robust design.

You’ll have to buy the whole diff internal assembly from Arrma to get new cast tombstones. Nobody machines those, what’s wrong with your old ones? If they have gouges just sand smooth and add another planet shim

I can use these for my old diffs And get Arma with the tombstone delete for the new ones I want to build myself.

Make a wanted add, I bet some of the veterans have dozens of them they’d sell for shipping

Ok bet

 

[Garcbomber]

I was wondering if there was a steel insert in there, the issue is the two materials expand and contract at different rates and will eventually separate and start wearing the aluminum down.

 

[Anthony jaques]

I was wondering if there was a steel insert in there, the issue is the two materials expand and contract at different rates and will eventually separate and start wearing the aluminum down.

These right here

I was wondering if there was a steel insert in there, the issue is the two materials expand and contract at different rates and will eventually separate and start wearing

My parts break down sheet shows. The center aluminum deaf on the fire team does have tombstones

 

[Anthony jaques]

Going with m2c cups pins hot racing bevel and spur carbon steel and vitavon inner gears

 

[slick2500]

These right here

View attachment 320323

My parts break down sheet shows. The center aluminum deaf on the fire team does have tombstones

The Arrma manuals are full of so many mistakes it's not even funny.

 

[Rcproponent]

The Arrma manuals are full of so many mistakes it's not even funny.

The center Arrma diff in a fireteam is the red cased one… shouldn’t have tombstones..

 

[SrC]

The arrma case has tombstone delete, it’s a much more robust design.

You’ll have to buy the whole diff internal assembly from Arrma to get new cast tombstones. Nobody machines those, what’s wrong with your old ones? If they have gouges just sand smooth and add another planet shim

+1
IMHO, the key to making bulletproof Open diffs is to use all of the Mugen shims/spacers only. Like ones shown above. Toss the Arrma ones. They are soft and wear out quickly along with the Tombstones. What ruins the diffs quickly. Because as they wear, the spiders rock and run misaligned. Also good to use a light smear of grease on the output cup shafts when assembling them. How Tekno diffs are built.
Arrma metal diff Cup Upgrade Option parts are better IMHO. The Tombstone delete with it, works very well along with the Mugen Shim kit (MUGE206). Satellite( spiders) and Sun gears stay well aligned for way longer. Handles loads way better. And I still use the stocker spider and sun cast metal gears. Because they are lasting longer this way.
I wouldn't bother with the HR diff cup.
The Vitavon diff gear set does look to be nice however. You just cant beat CNC'ed gears. As long as they are machined well.
A good idea to cut your own Sun Gear Cross pins out of HS Steel Drill blanks or of Drill Bits shanks.
The stocker cross pins will end up being the weak link in an otherwise good diff setup, as I described above.

 

[sumguy75]

Wait, so if the Mugen shims are used with the Arrma metal diff cup, just leave the tombstones out? 1 shim per side?

I was getting ready to order the arrma diff case for my Typhon so just need to get the shims and that's all if I'm not missing something.

 

[SrC]

I place the Mugen shims assembled just as with the OE setup. One shim behind each Gear.
The Armma Option Metal diff cannot fit the tombstones. And are not needed with it.
One Mugen shim kit will do all 3 diffs. Using all the Mugen shims.
Tossing all the stocker shims.
This setup might feel a bit snug at first. But should rotate no issue. There will be an initial breakin period, as with all diffs. And will maintain smooth diff action for way longer after a breakin period.
Always Clean all the parts well before assembling. EVEN if the parts are brand new! Shims, gears and all.
Brake Spray solvent is best to clean diff parts.
I find that a metal diff is needed mostly at the center. It tends to runs hot, depending on your setup and how you drive. I've melted a few Center plastic diffs. Never a Fr or Rr one.
Metal diffs add rotational weight and mass, so I don't run them at the front and rear. Just the plastic OE ones with the Tombstones.
But... I always use the Mugen shim kit with all my diffs.

Edited.

 

[palmryde]

I place the Mugen shims assembled just as with the OE setup. One shim behind each Gear.
The Armma Option Metal diff cannot fit the tombstones. And are not needed with it.
One Mugen shim kit will do all 3 diffs. Using all the Mugen shims.
Tossing all the stocker shims.
This setup might feel a bit snug at first. But should rotate no issue. There will be an initial breakin period, as with all diffs. And will maintain smooth diff action for way longer after a breakin period.
Always Clean all the parts well before assembling. EVEN if the parts are brand new! Shims, gears and all.
Brake Spray solvent is best to clean diff parts.
I find that a metal diff is needed mostly at the center. It tends to runs hot, depending on your setup and how you drive. I've melted a few Center plastic diffs. Never a Fr or Rr one.
Metal diffs add roational weight and mass, so I don't run them at the front and rear. Just the plastic OE ones with the Tombstones.
But... I always use the Mugen shim kit with all my diffs.

Edited.

Could you attached the link to these shims pleae. Thks