Fireteam Spider gears whats good

[Anthony jaques]

You need the tombstones? If you’re going upgrade the gears you should delete them with an aluminum case to make it bulletproof. The plastic cases fail from heat and tighter fitment machined gears will create more naturally from more surface area contact.

Hey is that muegen link you sent me are those the exact ones needed for my fireteam

 

[SrC]

It was already posted above by @Garcbomber.....

https://www.amainhobbies.com/mugen-...1d-wIm7ke11b2h4YYi5eh04HoLezMIBQaAn8IEALw_wcB

Been using these for many years now. I won't do any diff without them.
An essential Mugen part for any Arrma 6s RTR "Open" diff.
Do all 3 of your diffs with them. Whether Plastic stocker ones or the Arrma Metal ones. They are made of Spring steel, unlike the OE flimsy crap shims.
If you don't do anything else with your OE diffs, at the very least, use these Mugen shims. Hands down makes much difference with durability.

Amazon also has them.

https://www.amazon.com/MUGEN-Differential-Washer-M-Spec-MUGC1206/dp/B000BMPK2U/ref=sr_1_10?crid=1NXJIUGGMFMSO&keywords=mugen+e206&qid=1693755691&sprefix=mugen+e206,aps,171&sr=8-10

FWIW, after a diff rebuild, I will do some tight figure 8's when intially driving it, to help seat the gears and break-in the diff action, Before driving it hard and fast.
I sometimes do a diff break-in with my Drill on the bench. Best way. Diff attached directly to the drill. Going forward then reverse for a minute. The diff will warm up to the touch. Don't over do it and get the diff very hot. That's all.
Just some tips.

Edited.

 

[palmryde]

It was already posted above by @Garcbomber.....

https://www.amainhobbies.com/mugen-...1d-wIm7ke11b2h4YYi5eh04HoLezMIBQaAn8IEALw_wcB

Been using these for many years now. I won't do any diff without them.
An essential Mugen part for any Arrma 6s RTR "Open" diff.
Do all 3 of your diffs with them. Whether Plastic stocker ones or the Arrma Metal ones. They are made of Spring steel, unlike the OE flimsy crap shims.
If you don't do anything else with your OE diffs, at the very least, use these Mugen shims. Hands down makes much difference with durability.

Amazon also has them.

https://www.amazon.com/MUGEN-Differential-Washer-M-Spec-MUGC1206/dp/B000BMPK2U/ref=sr_1_10?crid=1NXJIUGGMFMSO&keywords=mugen+e206&qid=1693755691&sprefix=mugen+e206,aps,171&sr=8-10

FWIW, after a diff rebuild, I will do some tight figure 8's when intially driving it, to help seat the gears and break-in the diff action, Before driving it hard and fast.
I sometimes do a diff break-in with my Drill on the bench. Best way. Diff attached directly to the drill. Going forward then reverse for a minute. The diff will warm up to the touch. Don't over do it and get the diff very hot. That's all.
Just some tips.

Edited.

Thank you. One last dumb question the large shims go under the sun gears right?

 

[slick2500]

The center Arrma diff in a fireteam is the red cased one… shouldn’t have tombstones..

And yet the manual shows tombstones in the center diff.

 

[Rcproponent]

And yet the manual shows tombstones in the center diff.

View attachment 320383

Gotchya. Thought it was the other way around. My bad

 

[Garcbomber]

Another nice thing about Arrma’s design is being able to access both sides without completely removing the planetary set. Had an o-ring fail so it’ll need to be replaced and filled without touching the gear side.

 

[slick2500]

Gotchya. Thought it was the other way around. My bad

The Arrma manuals are seriously the worst manuals on the planet. The worst thing is that they know about these errors and yet refuse to fix them.

 

[Rcproponent]

The Arrma manuals are seriously the worst manuals on the planet. The worst thing is that they know about these errors and yet refuse to fix them.

Arrma was dead a long time ago. They should just start calling their cars HH Kraton , outcast … etc.

 

[SrC]

The Arrma manuals are seriously the worst manuals on the planet. The worst thing is that they know about these errors and yet refuse to fix them.

Yeah Arrma just doesn't care.
To care about correcting errors, does requires more $$$. Fixing their mistakes would cost them too much. HH is cheap that way.
At the very least they should offer Correction updates at their Site. But then that would acknowledge all their mistakes. Which Arrma and HH will never do.
Being honest about their screwups is apparently bad for business. They rather never admit them.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Yeah Arrma just doesn't care.
To care about correcting errors, does requires more $$$. Fixing their mistakes would cost them too much. HH is cheap that way.
At the very least they should offer Correction updates at their Site. But then that would acknowledge all their mistakes. Which Arrma and HH will never do.
Being honest about their screwups is apparently bad for business. They rather never admit them.

Old arrma vs new arrma
But who uses manuals lol

 

[Sandracer_NL]

+1 on the Mugen Seiki shim set. Does anybody know if they also make it for 6mm outdrives, I can’t find them?

 

[SrC]

I doubt that Mugen has them for other Outdrives.
. These #0206 Mugen 1/8 Buggy diff Shims just happened to be a Brand/model crossover fit as it turns out. And only fitting Standard 6s Arrma RTR Open diffs.

Thank you. One last dumb question the large shims go under the sun gears right?

Yeah large diameter ones go under the Large Sun gears. Notice that the Stocker Sat. gear shim is rather small by comparison... NG. The Mugen shim matches the Sat gear diameter.
Then you place the cross-pin through the output Cup shaft , keeping it in place. I usually place some Sil oil on the crosspin and shim, before installing the Sun Gear over it. I don't want the shim and crosspin to be dry without oil.
I also said elsewhere ....that a smear of grease is good to put on the output cup shaft before installing it into the diff cup/ carrier. The shaft is an extreme wear area. Output cups wobble when they wear. Leading to the Satellite gear misalignment. Because it is only metal on metal under high rotational load. Especially when Diffing out.

 

[SrC]

Old arrma vs new arrma
But who uses manuals lol

Many new guys to Arrma rigs are lost without a manual. We even see many who ask basic questions because they never even opend them up. Tossing them in the trash or letting the dog eat them... Typical is buying lipos that don't fit, because they never looked at the manual and read the Lipo's tray dimensions that are provided there.
Not all of us need them, I agree. Especially after your 9th 6s rig. It's all muscle memory.
The most important parts of the manual are the ESC parameter setups, Part numbers and the Blow up Diagram. It's your bible. As with any brand/model RC.

 

[slick2500]

Many new guys to Arrma rigs are lost without a manual. We even see many who ask basic questions because they never even opend them up. Tossing them in the trash or letting the dog eat them...
Not all of us need them, I agree. Especially after your 9th 6s rig. It's all muscle memory.
The most important parts of the manual are the ESC parameter setups, Part numbers and the Blow up Diagram. It's your bible. As with any brand/model RC.

Very first rc car I ever bought first thing I did was open the manual. I read every page that was in English before I even plugged the battery into the charger.

I use the exploded views all the time just to find parts.

This place is a great source for shop able exploded views for a lot of the old discontinued Arrma cars and cars from some other brands too https://vortexhobbies.com/parts_finder.php?osCsid=2b97bfe91b4b23ddd34411c2a0f0de42

 

[SrC]

Good find!

 

[snotbottom]

I was trying to build an extra set but I see now I got hr cause they are buy 1 get 2 free lol
So I mean I got 3 of them with the still bushing for 18 bucks

What, where? That's a heck of a deal!

 

[SrC]

And yet the manual shows tombstones in the center diff.

View attachment 320383

When you buy the Arrma metal diff Option as a separate retail part, I believe that they now include a supplemental instruction sheet which is correct. Tombstones are clearly deleted.

 

[Anthony jaques]

What, where? That's a heck of a deal!

Ebay

Ebay

They don't have the tombstone delete so I canceled went with arrma better built and fill steel outdrive cap so no oblonging of aluminum like hr but if they still got em here's a screen shot

Ebay

They don't have the tombstone delete so I canceled went with arrma better built and fill steel outdrive cap so no oblonging of aluminum like hr but if they still got em here's a screen shot

If u put 3 in cart will only charge for one

Ebay

They don't have the tombstone delete so I canceled went with arrma better built and fill steel outdrive cap so no oblonging of aluminum like hr but if they still got em here's a screen shot

If u put 3 in cart will only charge for one

Ebay

They don't have the tombstone delete so I canceled went with arrma better built and fill steel outdrive cap so no oblonging of aluminum like hr but if they still got em here's a screen shot

If u put 3 in cart will only charge for one

See the difference

 

[snotbottom]

If u put 3 in cart will only charge for one

Gotcha, thanks!

 

[Rocketzx1]

I read this whole thread, and still not sure what you all are referring to as “tombstones”