Kraton Steering servo - How much torque do we really need?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Messages
180
Reaction score
195
Location
Westminster, CO
Arrma RC's
  1. Talion
How much torque does a Kraton or Talion really need? I'm sure it depends on the tires, but I think a good discussion on this would be healthy.

Also, out of curiosity while on the subject, is there a such thing as too much torque? I mean, if we put 1000 oz-in in there, do we start breaking steering linkages when the tires get unknowingly stuck or something and we try to turn?
 
Yeah, but Reef's doesn't sell a 666 oz-in servo (yet).
cdn
 
Can you ever have enough torque???
I think a 35 kg servo is a minimum. And fine for all for all the stock 6s rigs.
If you anticipate very heavy large and belted tires, you could always use more torque.
I find the higher the torque, the slower the servos are for the most part.
 
I use a Powerhobby 729MBL servo in my Kraton 6s. It is a brushless, waterproof servo that has 500 oz-in of torque and a speed of .100 seconds at 7.4 volts. Like many things in the world of RC, in the past month they went up in price from $89.95 to $94.99.

https://www.powerhobby.com/powerhobby-729mbl.html

I have two of these servos in crawlers and one in my Kraton.
 
I appreciate the input guys, but I don't want to focus on which servo model or brand is best, but more so what specs we should be looking for. Teach a man to fish ya know... :)

I realize that there are variables like how big of a tire are you trying to turn, and how heavy those tires are. I appreciate the comment about speed. I didn't realize that there was such a thing as too fast of a servo. Seems like the answer there would be "well just slow down your fingers". LOL But it makes sense. Maybe making an analogy to real cars, show me the race car that can turn the wheels lock to lock in .1 seconds anyway, let alone faster than that.

Is there some kind of accepted objective test to see if a servo is strong enough? I'm just throwing this out there as an example guess of a test... take the tires off and turn full lock to lock and note approximate time. Put the tires on and the car on the ground and repeat. If the lock to lock time slows down then your servo isn't strong enough. Again, guessing. I suppose one could also account for gyroscopic force and spin the tires up to speed and do a 3rd test. Though I might also suggest that the faster the car is going, the slower you want it to turn so you don't make huge corrections at high speed.

One thing that would also be constructive is a comment such as "I tried servo xxx with xxx tires and it wasn't strong enough. I could tell it wasn't strong enough because..." That would help us dial in min torque req's.

Thoughts?
 
What you propose is not an objective test, but a subjective test. You would have to do hundreds of tests to come to any kind of conclusion, if you even could.

There are objective tests for servo torque and speed, which is how servos are rated. They are performed on a calibrated machine so there are no variables (tires, vehicle weight, etc.) that enter the picture. Check out RC Review on YouTube: you will find test of servos in various price ranges and recommendations.

What one person thinks is strong enough might be different than what another person thinks is strong enough for the same vehicle. I think you will find that a lot of people go for higher torque servos than are actually needed for a given situation. Crawlers generally need a more powerful servo because they may not be moving when the steering is engaged, whereas a basher is almost always moving and requires a servo with less torque and speed.
 
I think we all can attest to the stock s652 being underpowered for a K6 out the box..

when looking for stronger I took the 265oz it allegedly puts out and decided I needed to double that for my liking of turning and mobility.

Therefore to answer the main question I feel you need 400min to 500 to adequately turn those copperheads. I’d probably go for a another 505 or 630 being I like pro-modeler n they only make certain Oz’s.

Also must keep in mind majority of the max output whether 400-700 is usually ran at full tilt 8.4 bec?
 
I appreciate the input guys, but I don't want to focus on which servo model or brand is best, but more so what specs we should be looking for. Teach a man to fish ya know... :)

I realize that there are variables like how big of a tire are you trying to turn, and how heavy those tires are. I appreciate the comment about speed. I didn't realize that there was such a thing as too fast of a servo. Seems like the answer there would be "well just slow down your fingers". LOL But it makes sense. Maybe making an analogy to real cars, show me the race car that can turn the wheels lock to lock in .1 seconds anyway, let alone faster than that.

Is there some kind of accepted objective test to see if a servo is strong enough? I'm just throwing this out there as an example guess of a test... take the tires off and turn full lock to lock and note approximate time. Put the tires on and the car on the ground and repeat. If the lock to lock time slows down then your servo isn't strong enough. Again, guessing. I suppose one could also account for gyroscopic force and spin the tires up to speed and do a 3rd test. Though I might also suggest that the faster the car is going, the slower you want it to turn so you don't make huge corrections at high speed.

One thing that would also be constructive is a comment such as "I tried servo xxx with xxx tires and it wasn't strong enough. I could tell it wasn't strong enough because..." That would help us dial in min torque req's.

Thoughts?
Understand that with hobby grade servos, The speed and torque specs listed by the Mfr are usually overrated by as much as 30%.
If you consider what Arrma installs as stock, the torque is very minimal. To save coin, I am sure. They are just $5.00 cheap servos in reality. Doesn't even pay to warranty them at all. Until you install a real proper servo, you won't appreciate the performance and drivability of your rig.
I found that 35 kg servos are just about right as a minimum requirement. If you slam your rig with alot of alloy, it becomes much heavier, so more torque in a servo is paramount. And if your Servo saver is too weak and not shimmed properly or not using the optional "X-Hard" SS spring, your servo and steering will not perform at its best. Many overlook this part and feel the servo is the issue. NOT.:rolleyes:
And I also don't like servos that are too fast when it comes to bashing. Any decent radio worth its salt can dial down servo speed and Expo. to your liking IF needed. That is subjective to us all.
More servo speed, the better, out the box. And I just dial in my servo where I like it sometimes. With Larger MT wheels and off road, this is less important. With my Lim and Infr. and On Road rigs, this is more important.
Super fast servos are most beneficial at the track for confined technical driving. And that takes a different skillset when driving like this. And even the track guys will dial in their servos using Steering Exponential and speed trims at the radio.
 
Last edited:
One thing that need to be mentioned is that the usual recommend servo on this forums are the Amazon ones, and they are like 40% less powerful them what they are rated for, so when one is stating the minimum requirements he should say real 25kg of torque instead of I guess Inflated 35. I have big doubts that real 25kg is not enough for 95% of 6s line up, knowing the performance of stock brands servos are like 1/2 of the the claimed numbers. So even with 25kg you are 2-3x above the current stock offerings
 
Dazed has a point. Makes me want to make a test rig and buy a bunch of servos to test. Makes ya wonder though. Anyone live near pro modeler or some other "top end" manufacturer? I'm sure they have test rigs for qc, and maybe would be willing to put some other manufacturers' gear on their rig for a "whip it out" contest. LOL
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top