Infraction Steering won’t center no matter what!

[Audi X-Maxx]

It wouldn't centre so I've done this so far:

- I have tried 3 different Servos one being the Perfect Pass Servo from Raz shifrin, a Savox and 9imod one.
- I've replaced both steel steering posts
- Replaced both Steering bellcranks to Scorched parts ones
- Replaced Akerman to scorched carbon fibre one and added bearings to both sides
- I used the Radio Link rc6gs handset and receiver
- replaced the horseshoe shims on the upper hinge pin, both sides
- slackened off and played with pillar balls
- changed the position of the servo mounting twice
- changed link length
- checked nothing is binding/catching anywhere
- if servo is disconnected Ive moved the steering and its as smooth as butter

anything else? lol im pulling my hair out now lol

A lot of guys have had this issue. It’s definitely something that you can correct. First, disconnect the steering link from the rest of the steering assembly, so that it can freely move. Next, use a couple of blocks (wood or metal, doesn’t matter) on the outer rims of the front wheels. Make sure the wheels are straight/aligned, etc… This means adjusting the turnbuckles (tie rods) to make sure the rims are perfectly straight, relative to the chassis, and that they are both parallel to each other. Use a 5.0mm wrench to adjust those turnbuckles. Once that is perfectly aligned and the wheels are straight, relative to the chassis, you can now turn on the servo and reset the transmitter to 0 for the trim. Next, eyeball the steering link and where the best spot to mount the steering link on the steering assembly point. If it is the scorched one, then there should be several different threaded taps to choose from. pick the one that best sets the steering link to be perpendicular to the servo horn and the steering assembly mounting position. If it is not lining up perfectly, adjust the TRIM (not the sub trim) until it perfectly aligns… if it appears that the “perfect” alignment is in between the steps for the trim on the transmitter, then set the transmitter steps to “1” (sometimes, the transmitter steps are “2” at a time, so you can change how small of an increment step changes as you adjust). Once you are done eyeballing the alignment, and it looks perfect, go ahead and reconnect the servo steering link to the assembly. It should be an easy process. Remove the wooden/metal blocks. Now, you can set the EPA, by opening up the End Point Menu on the radio link and turn either right or left. You should notice that there is a point at which the wheels do not want to turn any more, so adjust the EPA down until the wheels start to move inward slightly. Fine tune that. Then repeat for the other side.

Congrats, you have now successfully calibrated your steering with minimal changes to the trim.

***** If this did not work, Pick up the RC and throw it against a wall, drink 6 beers quickly, then pour lighter fluid over the RC in a well-ventilated area, strike a match, toss it on the RC then walk away. Next, drive to your local hobby shop (seatbelt optional), and purchase a new RC. This will make you feel better.******

 

[SrC]

You’re never going to get it perfect due to the physical limitations of the tooth count on the servo spline. For example, if the spline has 360 teeth (never) you will have way better chances of getting truer 0 degrees over a spline that has 25 teeth……it’s that simple.

The best you can do is to get it as close to zero as possible and then use your trim setting on your remote. You may have already tried the steps mentioned above,….I don’t know, but BEFORE attaching the horn to the spline, always power up the rig first, Center your steering trim on your remote THEN attach the horn as close as possible to true zero degrees……then take out any left/right tendencies with remote trim.

I hope that makes sense.

cheers,
kev

+1

***** If this did not work, Pick up the RC and throw it against a wall, drink 6 beers quickly, then pour lighter fluid over the RC in a well-ventilated area, strike a match, toss it on the RC then walk away. Next, drive to your local hobby shop (seatbelt optional), and purchase a new RC. This will make you feel better.******

.
I been there once. I placed 2 block busters with a timed delay on my old 10T and drove it till it exploded.

>>>
Check and make sure the Servo Saver is not cracked, split or binding. And that SS Spring has enough tension. Also very important to check the Pivot balls when the servo is disconnected. Sometimed those pillow balls will bind up with dirt. Only takes one binded up Pillow ball of the 4 to lock up everything. And will need a cleaning out and readjustment for free travel.
Radio Steering trim (use the "Sub" ST Trim on better radios). Trim will always be needed to center the servo arm. Servo may be suspect also. Check its travel when disconnected to the Arm/horn..

 

[cancelthefuture]

It wouldn't centre so I've done this so far:

- I have tried 3 different Servos one being the Perfect Pass Servo from Raz shifrin, a Savox and 9imod one.
- I've replaced both steel steering posts
- Replaced both Steering bellcranks to Scorched parts ones
- Replaced Akerman to scorched carbon fibre one and added bearings to both sides
- I used the Radio Link rc6gs handset and receiver
- replaced the horseshoe shims on the upper hinge pin, both sides
- slackened off and played with pillar balls
- changed the position of the servo mounting twice
- changed link length
- checked nothing is binding/catching anywhere
- if servo is disconnected Ive moved the steering and its as smooth as butter

anything else? lol im pulling my hair out now lol

I know old thread, but I had this problem on my Outcast. I went through similar troubleshooting steps and just couldn't get it right. I finally found out what it was, no guarantees this is your problem, but my CVD axles on the front apparently had enough dirt in them to cause just enough binding when the servo let off the torque near center that it wouldn't center correctly. I tried 3 different servos and had same issue. I replaced nearly entire steering assembly with hot racing parts. Turns out all I needed to do was spray silicone lube in the axle. I turned it back and forth a few times after lubing, then used canned air to spray the extra silicone out, let it dry, and I was back to center. It was a miracle. Hope this helps.