Limitless Stiffer springs, oil recommendation?

[LicketySplit]

Have a set of stiffer springs coming from Saga. They recommend 80wt (1000cst). I know stock is 2000cst. Any reason to not go with 1000cst?

 

[Greengaunja]

Have a set of stiffer springs coming from Saga. They recommend 80wt (1000cst). I know stock is 2000cst. Any reason to not go with 1000cst?

I find oil weights and spring tensions to not have any one answer. Mostly it depends on your setup, your weight, how you drive, and what you drive on.
Trial and error is the best way to find out what works for you. Sometimes it's dumb things that work best, like me having 2 springs on the front of my 8s Senton.

 

[LicketySplit]

I find oil weights and spring tensions to not have any one answer. Mostly it depends on your setup, your weight, how you drive, and what you drive on.
Trial and error is the best way to find out what works for you. Sometimes it's dumb things that work best, like me having 2 springs on the front of my 8s Senton.View attachment 206506

I drive straight and fast with this car, that's pretty much it.

 

[Greengaunja]

I drive straight and fast with this car, that's pretty much it.

Ok, let give an example.
My 8s Senton is actually a 6s that I've upgraded. I've more than doubled its weight and the build is strictly for lot ripping and speed runs. One issue I had was because I'm drooped so low, I only have 1/4-3/8 of usable shock function. So I went with 10k diff fluid and dual springs(couldn't find any 1 spring that worked well) This seems to work for me, but I'm sure someone knows of a better way to set that up. If I were you, I'd buy both weights, try the recommended and if not working for me, try the other.
Even though you are running straight, what's the surface like? Dead flat? Pavement cracks? Elevation changes?
Elevation changes are what kills me. Causes chassis slap and the whole car goes airborne!
This is the kind of question where we point out that what works for me may not for you and what works for you might not for me. Wish I had an easier answer, but it's really trial and error.

 

[LicketySplit]

It's flat and I'm traveling at over 130mph, getting faster tho. I know a lot of people use nitro tubing on the rear shock shafts to stop the rear from squatting. I don't see how oil would make a difference with keeping it from squatting. But I have 80w already. If it doesn't matter I won't mess with it.

 

[Greengaunja]

It's flat and I'm traveling at over 130mph, getting faster tho. I know a lot of people use nitro tubing on the rear shock shafts to stop the rear from squatting. I don't see how oil would make a difference with keeping it from squatting. But I have 80w already. If it doesn't matter I won't mess with it.

Oil and spring work together controlling compression and rebound speeds. The thinner the oil, the faster the compression and rebound.

 

[SrC]

Have a set of stiffer springs coming from Saga. They recommend 80wt (1000cst). I know stock is 2000cst. Any reason to not go with 1000cst?

I don't know how Saga determined that 80w(1k cst) is correct for their springs. Maybe they actually tested it? IDK. It is really trial and error for each different rig. How you like it. But if you have 1k in there right now. Just install the springs and evaluate from there before changing out to 2k. And only change the fronts or rear shock oil in pairs, separately, and evaluate each change one at a time. DO the fronts evaluate, then do the rear oil, if you need to. I'm running 3k in my Lim and Infr. ( F+R) Stock is 2k for them. But these are On road rigs.
I don't know what rig you are working on. You did not state this.

 

[LicketySplit]

I don't know how Saga determined that 80w(1k cst) is correct for their springs. Maybe they actually tested it? IDK. It is really trial and error for each different rig. How you like it. But if you have 1k in there right now. Just install the springs and evaluate from there before changing out to 2k. And only change the fronts or rear shock oil in pairs, separately, and evaluate each change one at a time. DO the fronts evaluate, then do the rear oil, if you need to. I'm running 3k in my Lim and Infr. ( F+R) Stock is 2k for them. But these are On road rigs.
I don't know what rig you are working on. You did not state this.

I selected the Limitless prefix. The 2000cst is still in there. I have 1000cst on hand. For our purpose I just felt 1000 was too thin. The fact that you run 3000 kinda confirms what I was thinking. I’ll stick with the 2000 and see how I like it. Thanks.

 

[SrC]

Yeah, I had to bump up the shock oil thickness a bit there in my Lim. The rear first, then the fronts.
Way better for me. I run a stock chassis and 6s HW gear. Stock Lipo saddle configuration. Speed run mostly. I changed out F+R springs also, but ended up staying with the stocker springs and just thicker 3k oil. I used a Cross Weight scale to balance it out. Needed about 1/4 oz on the front center ahead of the Shock tower. There is a specific place there to add weight ballast if you need to.
Many don't balance their rigs. But they handle much more predictable when you do.
BTW 1k cst equals 80weight. Better for heavier Off road rigs.

 

[LicketySplit]

Yeah, I had to bump up the shock oil thickness a bit there in my Lim. The rear first, then the fronts.
Way better for me. I run a stock chassis and 6s HW gear. Stock Lipo saddle configuration. Speed run mostly. I changed out F+R springs also, but ended up staying with the stocker springs and just thicker 3k oil. I used a Cross Weight scale to balance it out. Needed about 1/4 oz on the front center ahead of the Shock tower. There is a specific place there to add weight ballast if you need to.
Many don't balance their rigs. But they handle much more predictable when you do.
BTW 1k cst equals 80weight. Better for heavier Off road rigs.

Yea I saw that spot. I have a bunch of stick on wheel weights for car in 1/4 increments. I’ll play with that later. Right now I’m just trying to make sure it doesn’t turn into an airplane with the GT body. Running 8s, XLX2, 1717. Stock battery and motor locations. The idea was the stiffer springs would let me set my front droop lower.

 

[K-BASH]

for speedrunning replace shocks for turnbuckles if road is smooth enough......zero travel is best.....rear will squat an car will go airborne....plus ya remove 50ish grams per shock

 

[LicketySplit]

for speedrunning replace shocks for turnbuckles if road is smooth enough......zero travel is best.....rear will squat an car will go airborne....plus ya remove 50ish grams per shock

It’s smooth but not that smooth. Still searching for a better road. If I have the time I’m gonna check out a new one this weekend. Too bad it’s 45-50 min away vs 10 min where I run now. But it looks good on Google street view and there no reflectors, which is my main issue now.

 

[K-BASH]

Impossible for rear to squat like this

 

[LicketySplit]

Impossible for rear to squat like this

View attachment 206630

For sure. If I find a better road and once I get into the 140’s-150’s I’ll look into that. What turnbuckles are those from anyways?

 

[K-BASH]

For sure. If I find a better road and once I get into the 140’s-150’s I’ll look into that. What turnbuckles are those from anyways?

Off the 3s lineup,big rock..gt bodies are notorious for going airborne.too much rear wing will do it to.not enough wing an rear gets light..t-buckles are the way to go.id try running them on rear even if road is a little rough.the power of these cars will squat rear even with stiff springs..James mccoy is the only big speed guy I've seen still running shocks.can bottom out shock an run that way to..remember extra weight adds to amp pull.less amp pull,more gear ya can go up.always keep weight in mind in speedcars.im running this 1/10 super light typhon on 4s with much less amps per speed than I've run in heavier 1/8 cars.

 

[LicketySplit]

Off the 3s lineup,big rock..gt bodies are notorious for going airborne.too much rear wing will do it to.not enough wing an rear gets light..t-buckles are the way to go.id try running them on rear even if road is a little rough.the power of these cars will squat rear even with stiff springs..James mccoy is the only big speed guy I've seen still running shocks.can bottom out shock an run that way to..remember extra weight adds to amp pull.less amp pull,more gear ya can go up.always keep weight in mind in speedcars.im running this 1/10 super light typhon on 4s with much less amps per speed than I've run in heavier 1/8 cars.

View attachment 206641

Ok. Thanks for the input. I’ll probably order some turnbuckles for just the rear at some point.

 

[SrC]

Yea I saw that spot. I have a bunch of stick on wheel weights for car in 1/4 increments. I’ll play with that later. Right now I’m just trying to make sure it doesn’t turn into an airplane with the GT body. Running 8s, XLX2, 1717. Stock battery and motor locations. The idea was the stiffer springs would let me set my front droop lower.

You can always rake the rear higher. Versus lowering the front. What I do. But with the stock Lim body. GT bodies are a different animal. Much more down force, but only if it won't lift from bumps or divits in the road. Then it will fly like a frisbee. Been there. Inf and Li bodies.
Did you add wide side skirts to fill in the wider GT body. This will help with Ground effect issues.
Like @K-BASH stated above locking the shocks with fuel line or similar will help greatly if you have a very smooth pavement/road.
Probably most critical when hitting 130+mph. I don't have my shocks locked. But have extreme preload, thicker oil and Droop gets the rest dialed in for me. I noticed some guys only lock the rear shocks. And some only the fronts.
Whatever works for you.

 

[LicketySplit]

You can always rake the rear higher. Versus lowering the front. What I do. But with the stock Lim body. GT bodies are a different animal. Much more down force, but only if it won't lift from bumps or divits in the road. Then it will fly like a frisbee. Been there. Inf and Li bodies.
Did you add wide side skirts to fill in the wider GT body. This will help with Ground effect issues.

Yup

 

[Greengaunja]

Balance is EVERYTHING. Not only more predictable, better performance, better traction, better everything. I might get a cross weight scale soon. Only $150 for the SkyRC one.

 

[K-BASH]

Balance is EVERYTHING. Not only more predictable, better performance, better traction, better everything. I might get a cross weight scale soon. Only $150 for the SkyRC one.

Your right..taking 200 grams off a car that weights 8lbs it like 700lbs off a 1to1 drag car. Especially if speedrunning.takes energy to move mass...more mass ,more energy needed..these setups only have so much energy before you stop gaining speed an will show on castle logs.did a senton 8s with zero travel that weighted alot with huge 56mm motor,any kind of crash an everything broke....was too heavy,had tons of power thought.totaled it out at 113mph...probably build another for speed this year.
This thing was insane...too heavy thou