Big Rock Strange slipper damage?

[Robingro]

Lost drive when i was doing some backflips with my big rock.
Pulled it apart and noticed the slipper was damaged, nothing else.
Feels like theres alot of plastic parts that should go out first, anyone else had this happened?

 

[AIan]

Had one do the same a while back on a typhon 3s, Luckily it’s not too expensive

 

[slick2500]

Yeah that thing is made of monkey metal that is a very common breakage.

 

[Acidsnow]

In ma hoose, any strange slipper damage is usually doon tae the dug!

 

[Moonstonemike]

Lost drive when i was doing some backflips with my big rock.
Pulled it apart and noticed the slipper was damaged, nothing else.
Feels like theres alot of plastic parts that should go out first, anyone else had this happened?

View attachment 223132

It's a common failure point. I usually add old bearing races to support it.

 

[SrC]

Slipper's.... I'm so done with them.

 

[Velodromed]

Are you clicking the motor module back in very firmly and making sure to get that firm, loud ‘click’ sound? The only time I’ve had it strip out the inside of the slipper hub was when I failed to click it back in 100%. Now if I don’t get that really loud click sound and feel I pop it back out and try again until I do.

The inner bearing race mod previously mentioned works very well. Been running it in four of my 3S cars for quite a while now. It won’t stop it from stripping out on the inside but doing what I said above helps avoid that.

Oh, forgot the other common reason that happens. Landing just right on your ass-end can flex the chassis just enough to separate the spur connection from the rear diff slightly. Add to this landing on power and the hub can strip out/crack.

 

[GRC]

A new metal slipper hub sleeve was introduced with the new 4s line. It's not available yet though.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/metal-slipper-hub-sleeve/ARA311157.html

 

[Velodromed]

A new metal slipper hub sleeve was introduced with the new 4s line. It's not available yet though.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/metal-slipper-hub-sleeve/ARA311157.html

Or just slip on an inner race from an old bearing.

 

[RCbuzz]

This feels like a side effect of having the updated shorter rear spline on the input gear. I believe they did this to accommodate the plastic nut to better hold the slipper assembly tight... I have not had this happen yet on my older 3S rigs and also have not had too much slipper trouble after getting the Loctite to set correctly in the slipper screw/threads.

I feel like they should have kept the spline longer or used a stronger metal for the slipper metal bits... One step forward.. Not sure how many steps backwards.

One thing is for sure, I wish I had stocked up on the old input gears with the longer splines back when Jenny's had them.

 

[Velodromed]

This feels like a side effect of having the updated shorter rear spline on the input gear. I believe they did this to accommodate the plastic nut to better hold the slipper assembly tight... I have not had this happen yet on my older 3S rigs and also have not had too much slipper trouble after getting the Loctite to set correctly in the slipper screw/threads.

I feel like they should have kept the spline longer or used a stronger metal for the slipper metal bits... One step forward.. Not sure how many steps backwards.

One thing is for sure, I wish I had stocked up on the old input gears with the longer splines back when Jenny's had them.

I’ve never had issues with the driveshaft connection part of the hub. It’s always where it connects to the rear differential that has issues. I believe that part of the hub is the same for all models. If I’m wrong please let me know so I can go find it

 

[RCbuzz]

So far, I have not had issues with the center driveshaft connection either.

At the thread below someone had troubles installing their power module after a new slipper, turns out the old diff input gear is longer. You have to scrap the plastic nut in the V3 slipper for it to work.

Seems like quite a bit more contact area with the longer input gear. Especially at that point where you see very high torque to the rear wheels.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/power-module-doesn't-fit-correctly.44345/post-618380

 

[Velodromed]

So far, I have not had issues with the center driveshaft connection either.

At the thread below someone had troubles installing their power module after a new slipper, turns out the old diff input gear is longer. You have to scrap the plastic nut in the V3 slipper for it to work.

Seems like quite a bit more contact area with the longer input gear. Especially at that point where you see very high torque to the rear wheels.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/power-module-doesn't-fit-correctly.44345/post-618380

Huh! Interesting… I must find one for grins and check it out.

 

[GRC]

This feels like a side effect of having the updated shorter rear spline on the input gear. I believe they did this to accommodate the plastic nut to better hold the slipper assembly tight... I have not had this happen yet on my older 3S rigs and also have not had too much slipper trouble after getting the Loctite to set correctly in the slipper screw/threads.

I feel like they should have kept the spline longer or used a stronger metal for the slipper metal bits... One step forward.. Not sure how many steps backwards.

One thing is for sure, I wish I had stocked up on the old input gears with the longer splines back when Jenny's had them.

I thought so as well, because I never had the problem with the old input gear. But others have said they had the same problem with the old input gear.

Or just slip on an inner race from an old bearing.

That's what I'm using right now. It most definitely helps, but I already have a small crack again. If the new metal sleeve from Arrma doesn't work any better, Oktay makes a slipper housing upgrade. I think it's 7075 aluminum. But it's a German company, so shipping to the U.S. is going to be very pricey.