Kraton Stripped out front differential case Kraton V4

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I haven't ripped threads out of the bulkhead, but I have ripped the screw through the RPM bumper itself. I ended up using even longer screws and put countersunk steel plates for the screws to go through on my outcast. They act as wear plates as the skate parks I run at chew through plastic skids in a matter of a bash or two. They also give the screw something solid so they don't rip through the skid/bumper when I lawn dart.
 
I haven't ripped threads out of the bulkhead, but I have ripped the screw through the RPM bumper itself. I ended up using even longer screws and put countersunk steel plates for the screws to go through on my outcast. They act as wear plates as the skate parks I run at chew through plastic skids in a matter of a bash or two. They also give the screw something solid so they don't rip through the skid/bumper when I lawn dart.
Nice! Yeah I didn't even think of the possibility of the screw ripping through the bumper itself, that means you must have nice strong threads at least. I look forward to slowly bulletproofing this thing as I continue to break it and have fun.
 
I have 2 of the plates on the front and one on the rear. I usually just have them as "wear bars" and make new ones as they grind down. But they also act like a big ass washer and help keep the skid/bumper from ripping through. I'm using the longest screws I can without bottoming out as the RPM added some thickness as did the wear bar. I bevel the leading edge of the bar so it doesn't catch on stuff.
2018-0915-Outcast-ChassisSkidProtectors-2onFront.jpg
 
I run the rpm bumper on my Kraton and Notorious. I do not run it over the original bumpers. In both instances I use a Typhon bumper to hold the pins in. I have lawn darted moth trucks plenty of times and not had the screws pull out. I really think you need to ditch the stock bumper.

 
I run the rpm bumper on my Kraton and Notorious. I do not run it over the original bumpers. In both instances I use a Typhon bumper to hold the pins in. I have lawn darted moth trucks plenty of times and not had the screws pull out. I really think you need to ditch the stock bumper.

I'll have to check the stock kraton bumper vs the stock outcast bumper. I just took the long/wide part off the stock bumper and put the RPM over it. I don't even remember what the stock bumper/skid looks like without RPM as that was installed before I drove it the first time.
 
I run the rpm bumper on my Kraton and Notorious. I do not run it over the original bumpers. In both instances I use a Typhon bumper to hold the pins in. I have lawn darted moth trucks plenty of times and not had the screws pull out. I really think you need to ditch the stock bumper.

Another item(typhon front bumper)to add to my long list of parts to order
 
Did you reuse the stock screws when you added the RPM bumper? Is so, too short. You need something longer. Personally I would get the small Typhon bumper that holds the hinge pins in and ditch the stock bumper.

Has anyone tried using a product like " Helicoil " for repairing stripped threads. I have used them for stripped threads on aluminum, white metal and steel with good results.
 
Has anyone tried using a product like " Helicoil " for repairing stripped threads. I have used them for stripped threads on aluminum, white metal and steel with good results.
I was always going to... but never did. Especially back in my tmaxx days with the stupid bulkheads. Seemed to always strip the screws in those things. Could be because I was replacing the crappy diffs every couple of weeks. Not sure there's enough material in quite a few instances as you have to drill out and tap to 5 or 6 mm to use a 4mm screw.
 
Has anyone tried the HR diff case? I just don't want to pop the same one back in and strip it out again, but I guess if i'm running the new bumper to the pin block I won't be putting stress on that area anymore.
Yeah I’ve had good experiences with the HR diff case - well worth upgrading both ends. There’s just too much torque, energy etc that transfers through that case for a plastic to hold up. I also recommend upgrading the hinge pins and the braces that hold them in with a higher grade aluminum (aircraft grade).
Voltage hobies makes really nice ones. M2c for the hinge pins ??
 
Yeah I’ve had good experiences with the HR diff case - well worth upgrading both ends. There’s just too much torque, energy etc that transfers through that case for a plastic to hold up. I also recommend upgrading the hinge pins and the braces that hold them in with a higher grade aluminum (aircraft grade).
Voltage hobies makes really nice ones. M2c for the hinge pins ??
Thanks for the info! I might have to stop reading the forums until next payday haha! Every upgrade I do, I realize there's a few more I could do at the same time.
 
Thanks for the info! I might have to stop reading the forums until next payday haha! Every upgrade I do, I realize there's a few more I could do at the same time.
I hear ya. A temp solution is to cut your stock bumper so it still holds the pins. Or take it off and use a flat metal bumped out with washers as a pin holder or do what bicketybam suggested. I believe I had read somewhere here with the rpm over stock bumper it will use stock as leverage to pull out screws and without it the rpm bumper will flex and bend as it should. Or maybe I'm just making that all up ?
Anyway that's 2 free options and I cheap one to fix your issue. And I have used helicoils but I'm not sure if there's enough plastic left to keep the diff from future breaks. I found it for only $10, so pretty cheap fix. I enjoy using my cordless Sawzall whenever I can... Still need to grind it down so it's angled
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