Infraction Stripped screw from the factory

[Paul_c]

Newbie RC guy here. I went to tighten down all screws, and this one underneath just spins. It is one of four 2.5mm screws (holds the center diff?).
Anyway, should I drill this out and tap for a bigger screw? Thanks!

 

[Engineer]

That’s the plastic center diff mount. Gotta be careful when tightening machine screws into plastic. I wouldn’t drill it out for a larger screw as you would have to enlarge the hole in the chassis - stick a piece of ziptie in there for the screw to grab onto - or you can buy an aftermarket aluminum one for $6-7 or a practical Proto mount for $15 which would be my choice.

 

[Paul_c]

That’s the plastic center diff mount. Gotta be careful when tightening machine screws into plastic. I wouldn’t drill it out for a larger screw as you would have to enlarge the hole in the chassis - stick a piece of ziptie in there for the screw to grab onto - or you can buy an aftermarket aluminum one for $6-7 or a practical Proto mount for $15 which would be my choice.

Ok, not sure how to do those things but I'll check YouTube. Like I said, the person who assembled this at the factory stripped it. Had zero resistance when I went to tighten the screw. Thanks.

 

[Engineer]

Ok, not sure how to do those things but I'll check YouTube. Like I said, the person who assembled this at the factory stripped it. Had zero resistance when I went to tighten the screw. Thanks.

If it came that way from the factory, start a warranty claim with Horizon Hobby. They will ask you for proof of purchase end maybe some photos but are good about warrantying parts that were screwed up from the factory and should get you a new part.

 

[Fishtank]

Get an aluminum support.

 

[Paul_c]

Problem solved for now. Took the M4 out and put an M5 in. I'll look into aluminum next time, thanks guys.

 

[SrC]

Newbie RC guy here. I went to tighten down all screws, and this one underneath just spins. It is one of four 2.5mm screws (holds the center diff?).
Anyway, should I drill this out and tap for a bigger screw? Thanks!

View attachment 251697

View attachment 251698

Yeah, Call HH and tell them you got poor assy. from the factory. Doube check the whole rig , every screw, before calling HH. If I only had a nickel for every single stripped part on all my arrma rigs, I would be rich. There is not one new Arrma rig that I received, that did not have at least one stripped part. Some were nightmares and with my recent TLRT, just one stripped screw/part. The front plastic brace was stripped. I thought that was incredible. I was thankful for that. Just one part stripped.
I always make Arrma own up to Poor QC. Or they won't correct the QC at the factory, if you say nothing. Wishful thinking at least. Been there numerous times. HH will absolutely oblige. Yeah it sucks, new rig and all. You are not alone.
That stripped diff support is inexpensive however. 99% of time I just upgrade that part to alloy. One worthy Drivetrain upgrade. PPS, HR, and M2C I believe have them. I prefer PPS all the way for this particular part.
Don't bother to drill out and tap for any larger screw at all. Don't do it.
Good luck.

 

[SrC]

The way I usually check for stripped screws in plastic is to reverse the rotation a slight turn , then re-tighten it. Don't just attempt to tighten and bare down on every screw. Metal on metal screws just check normally. They are usually threadlocked and tight.
At the factory, unfortunatelly they use power drivers for quick assembly. Part of the problem IMHO. Is what it is, to keep costs low and speed up production.

 

[Paul_c]

The way I usually check for stripped screws in plastic is to reverse the rotation a slight turn , then re-tighten it. Don't just attempt to tighten and bare down on every screw. Metal on metal screws just check normally. They are usually threadlocked and tight.
At the factory, unfortunatelly they use power drivers for quick assembly. Part of the problem IMHO. Is what it is, to keep costs low and speed up production.

Oh I'm sure it's from power tools. Interesting, thanks.

That’s the plastic center diff mount. Gotta be careful when tightening machine screws into plastic. I wouldn’t drill it out for a larger screw as you would have to enlarge the hole in the chassis - stick a piece of ziptie in there for the screw to grab onto - or you can buy an aftermarket aluminum one for $6-7 or a practical Proto mount for $15 which would be my choice.

Is it this?

 

[Engineer]

Yup, that’s it. I also ordered a whole bunch off of Ali Express for like $4.50 apiece and they worked fine.

 

[SrC]

Curious why Arrma never offered it as an EXB alloy part or whatever.

I believe the V2 Limitless now has an alloy Center Diff Holder as standard. However It is has a taller profile. So you cannot mix and match it to these standard 6s rigs. Does not cross over to other 6s rigs unless you swap out to the whole V2 Lim Motor mount???

 

[Paul_c]

Yup, that’s it. I also ordered a whole bunch off of Ali Express for like $4.50 apiece and they worked fine.

You recommend I get their aluminum motor mount while I'm at it? Diff cover?

 

[SrC]

Yes. A most worthy alloy upgrade for the center diff no doubt. Nothing wrong with the Stocker alloy Motor mount however. Just get the alloy diff support and Top cover.
This is a high load stress area of the drivetrain. Completely supporting the center diff and spur in alloy is a good idea, IMHO.
Use Blue Threadlocker sparingly with the screws. Any metal on Metal screws. Allow 24 hours give or take for the TL'er to Cure.
Use only the stock 12.9 grade Screws when possible. Quality Hex drivers are key with any wrenching.
Use heat, heat gun or blow dryer at any Threadlocked metal on metal screw removal. Arrma uses TL'er at the factory. You don't want to strip hex screws or drivers.

 

[Engineer]

None of it is needed - it’s cool bling and it does make adjusting the mesh easier but it isn’t necessary.

 

[SrC]

Like @Engineer stated, the PPS Motor mount is the best out there. However is $very costly$ and not necessary at all, if running stock sized motors. Just over kill. Stock motor mount is just fine.
Spend that coin other priorities.
You can get an inexpensive alloy support and top cover if you shop around. Even replacing the top plastic cover is low priority. I feel the alloy support does matter. And is what stripped out for you.


Edited.

 

[Paul_c]

Yes. A most worthy alloy upgrade for the center diff no doubt. Nothing wrong with the Stocker alloy Motor mount however. Just get the alloy diff support and Top cover.
This is a high load stress area of the drivetrain. Completely supporting the center diff and spur in alloy is a good idea, IMHO.
Use Blue Threadlocker sparingly with the screws. Any metal on Metal screws. Allow 24 hours give or take for the TL'er to Cure.
Use only the stock 12.9 grade Screws when possible. Quality Hex drivers are key with any wrenching.
Use heat, heat gun or blow dryer at any Threadlocked metal on metal screw removal. Arrma uses TL'er at the factory. You don't want to strip hex screws or drivers.

Order placed, hopefully easy to do!

 

[parcou]

Order placed, hopefully easy to do!

Good buy

I agree with both the vet views above. My 6S rigs I swap with cheaper metal or Hot Racing metal cover and mount to remove those plastics.

For me, I just over-tighten bad habit and since it is the center diff, I have a habit of not stopping when tight. So the metal gives me comfort when tightening down.

All me.....just fix the habit, right...! but the coins were small since I am not an upgrade nutball,

 

[SrC]

^^^
+1

 

[Paul_c]

Update. Pretty PPS stuff. Tolerances on his stuff are impressive. Also, I removed the hand brake and it's servo.