Talion Talion 6s EXB Swapping Everything over to new chassis.
- Thread starter Nbum89
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I saw one YouTube video where the guy traced the outline of the new chassis on a piece of corrugated cardboard, marked the screw holes, then as he removed each screw from the old chassis he pushed them into the correct spot on the cardboard. When reassembling the new chassis he knew where every screw went. It's a great idea.
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Remove the front and rear bulkheads as complete assemblies, keeping the towers , arms shocks and all intact.
Then just swap over the chassis components one by one. No real short cut to this. Just make note of screw lengths and their positions. Take pictures for reference in case you get stuck. Have the blow up diagram there for further reference. Use small containers for organizing the screws and where they go. Have Blue TL on hand for Metal on metal screws.
Will take a whille. With practice you can do a chassis swap in under 1 hour.
I use a power driver. Speeds things up. But all final torquing is done by hand.
Take your time. Hopefully you have a decent set of Hex hand drivers.
If using L wrenches, Don't even start the job. IMHO.
Then just swap over the chassis components one by one. No real short cut to this. Just make note of screw lengths and their positions. Take pictures for reference in case you get stuck. Have the blow up diagram there for further reference. Use small containers for organizing the screws and where they go. Have Blue TL on hand for Metal on metal screws.
Will take a whille. With practice you can do a chassis swap in under 1 hour.
I use a power driver. Speeds things up. But all final torquing is done by hand.
Take your time. Hopefully you have a decent set of Hex hand drivers.
If using L wrenches, Don't even start the job. IMHO.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #4
Got it all swapped over. Just did it pc by pc, had a lot to fix/ replace bent/ broken screws. Anybody ever run the RPM arms on these? Factory they have the pin with a set screw, with RPM You can’t reuse that pin, it’s too long to use a set screw. I just put a zip tie in the groove that the set screw would normally lock into with factory arms. Also it seems like the front end sags a little lower than the rear, even with the
shock collar a little more than half way tightened, I’m pretty positive I used the same shock tower mounting hole. Just curious if anybody else had done this yet
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