TBone Bumper Wrecking Screw Holes?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Lazy Bushman

Very Active Member
Messages
1,669
Reaction score
1,615
Location
Brisbane - Australia
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Typhon 3s
I'm interested in knowing if others are having the same problem as me. I run a T-Bone V4 bumper on my Kraton and it does a great job of protecting the front end for collision damage. What I am experiencing however is that screw holes in the front diff housing are getting flogged out and the screw are now backing out oh so easily. See the attached pics. I have also included a pic of a new housing for comparison. I then measured the holes on the new with what is on the car now. The new housing holes are approximately 3.11mm in diameter and the ones on the car have grown to 4.15 (I say approximately to allow for error with old tired eyes).

Is anyone else who runs T-Bone bumpers experiencing similar problems and have the a fix apart from replacing the housing? Replacing the housing every couple of months is not acceptable.

Cheers
 

Attachments

  • 2019-05-09 22.15.43.jpg
    2019-05-09 22.15.43.jpg
    196.5 KB · Views: 124
  • 2019-05-09 22.08.19.jpg
    2019-05-09 22.08.19.jpg
    187.7 KB · Views: 111
Dang man I don’t know, I just had mine off not too long ago but didn’t look at it. I want to say no because I don’t remember anything weird when I re-assembled it. Are you making them good and tight when you screw the block on? Maybe the block is loose and moves a little wolering out the entrance of the hole?
 
I have a tbone on my Kraton, I have only taken the hinge pin block off once and it stripped the bulk head. It was my own fault though for cranking a screw into plastic.
 
I'm interested in knowing if others are having the same problem as me. I run a T-Bone V4 bumper on my Kraton and it does a great job of protecting the front end for collision damage. What I am experiencing however is that screw holes in the front diff housing are getting flogged out and the screw are now backing out oh so easily. See the attached pics. I have also included a pic of a new housing for comparison. I then measured the holes on the new with what is on the car now. The new housing holes are approximately 3.11mm in diameter and the ones on the car have grown to 4.15 (I say approximately to allow for error with old tired eyes).

Is anyone else who runs T-Bone bumpers experiencing similar problems and have the a fix apart from replacing the housing? Replacing the housing every couple of months is not acceptable.

Cheers
The stress that those big TBR and RPM bumpers put on the screws is immense. If you are constantly hitting the front end, the upwards force on those two small screws is magnified. I have gone up from a M3 to M4 on the front, after having the same thing happen. I dry fit the M4's first, to make sure they go in straight, and don't crack the dif case. The M4's don't flex as bad, and I didn't have any issues after. I have since removed the broken TBR bumper, and I'm using the small, stubby Talion one now. The M2C chassis is super strong, so any forward hits have had no repercussions. I did use the part that fits to the chassis off the broken TBR, as it makes a very good skid plate. You can see the Talion bumper in the first pic, and the part of the TBR bumper that eventually became a skid plate in the second. New TBR front is being shipped, but I'm not convinced that I will use it.
 

Attachments

  • 20190507_202832[1].jpg
    20190507_202832[1].jpg
    311.2 KB · Views: 78
  • 20190428_181619[1].jpg
    20190428_181619[1].jpg
    560.7 KB · Views: 79
The stress that those big TBR and RPM bumpers put on the screws is immense. If you are constantly hitting the front end, the upwards force on those two small screws is magnified. I have gone up from a M3 to M4 on the front, after having the same thing happen. I dry fit the M4's first, to make sure they go in straight, and don't crack the dif case. The M4's don't flex as bad, and I didn't have any issues after. I have since removed the broken TBR bumper, and I'm using the small, stubby Talion one now. The M2C chassis is super strong, so any forward hits have had no repercussions. I did use the part that fits to the chassis off the broken TBR, as it makes a very good skid plate. You can see the Talion bumper in the first pic, and the part of the TBR bumper that eventually became a skid plate in the second. New TBR front is being shipped, but I'm not convinced that I will use it.
Thanks mate, I will track down some M4's and give them a go. I was thinking of upgrading to the Hot Racing aluminium bulkhead but at about $180 for both inc freight it isn't an option I'm keen to pursue quickly. https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=AON12E01;c=926
 
The stress that those big TBR and RPM bumpers put on the screws is immense. If you are constantly hitting the front end, the upwards force on those two small screws is magnified. I have gone up from a M3 to M4 on the front, after having the same thing happen. I dry fit the M4's first, to make sure they go in straight, and don't crack the dif case. The M4's don't flex as bad, and I didn't have any issues after. I have since removed the broken TBR bumper, and I'm using the small, stubby Talion one now. The M2C chassis is super strong, so any forward hits have had no repercussions. I did use the part that fits to the chassis off the broken TBR, as it makes a very good skid plate. You can see the Talion bumper in the first pic, and the part of the TBR bumper that eventually became a skid plate in the second. New TBR front is being shipped, but I'm not convinced that I will use it.
It's a terrible design. No way to I want my diff bulkhead taking the impact.
 
It's a terrible design. No way to I want my diff bulkhead taking the impact.
The newer style uses a separate hinge pin block. The bumper will last much longer because of the brace that connects the bumper to the block. The screws that attach the block to the bulkhead are too small, but that's an Arrma design, not TBR. They had to design within the parameters of the vehicle. Without the brace, these bumpers, RPM included, buckle at the point wear they meet the chassis. Like I said in a different post, I modded for a wider screw that won't bend and flex like the stick ones. If you have to use the same size screw, find one with a longer shaft/shank before the threads start. I'm using something like those on my rear wheelie bar, and they haven't been affected at all.
 
The newer style uses a separate hinge pin block. The bumper will last much longer because of the brace that connects the bumper to the block. The screws that attach the block to the bulkhead are too small, but that's an Arrma design, not TBR. They had to design within the parameters of the vehicle. Without the brace, these bumpers, RPM included, buckle at the point wear they meet the chassis. Like I said in a different post, I modded for a wider screw that won't bend and flex like the stick ones. If you have to use the same size screw, find one with a longer shaft/shank before the threads start. I'm using something like those on my rear wheelie bar, and they haven't been affected at all.

I've had RPM on my Kraton and my Notorious from day 1. I've nosed dived them plenty. Still going strong and no damaged gear boxes. Go with what you are comfortable with. The RPM bumper has been stellar for me. Didn't need to modify the design one iota.
 
my tb bumper also did this I just got alittle bigger screws from the fastenal store and its held up so far had a smaller thread count also but I cant remember the exact size ... I know once I go to the hr aluminum gearbox case I'll go back to the old screws but your not alone....one of mine striped on the install not even with a collision it just was a pain in the but to get it all lined up in the first place
 
When it's all said and done, with the M2C chassis, the Talion bumper is doing a great job. Hit a tree and nose dived a bunch of times. Front end has never been better.not sure the big oversized bumpers are as necessary when you have a stronger chassis to absorb the impact.
 
When it's all said and done, with the M2C chassis, the Talion bumper is doing a great job. Hit a tree and nose dived a bunch of times. Front end has never been better.not sure the big oversized bumpers are as necessary when you have a stronger chassis to absorb the impact.
yeah I'm not using this thumper much longer my m2c front skid don't work with it either the two holes I need are covered up
 

Attachments

  • 20190502_152438.jpg
    20190502_152438.jpg
    276.4 KB · Views: 66
I would but it actually don't have the holes for the top two I'd have to drill it
If that's a T-Bone bumper, it's missing two holes and you should not drive the truck like that. The two screw holes that are missing hold the chassis to the dif case. This is a classic case of what @bicketybam has been saying all along. There should be 6 holes in the bottom of that bumper if it's the type that came with the separate hinge pin block. Call them up and tell them to send you a new one.
 
If that's a T-Bone bumper, it's missing two holes and you should not drive the truck like that. The two screw holes that are missing hold the chassis to the dif case. This is a classic case of what @bicketybam has been saying all along. There should be 6 holes in the bottom of that bumper if it's the type that came with the separate hinge pin block. Call them up and tell them to send you a new one.
Just typical. Here is a t-bone assembly worker:
MV5BYjYxY2ZkMjQtYjY2NC00M2JhLTk3YjMtOGVhNWJkNTE1NzA0L2ltYWdlL2ltYWdlXkEyXkFqcGdeQXVyNDA5ODU0ND...jpg


Blows my mind they have as many nutswingers as they do when this crap happens all the time.
 
If that's a T-Bone bumper, it's missing two holes and you should not drive the truck like that. The two screw holes that are missing hold the chassis to the dif case. This is a classic case of what @bicketybam has been saying all along. There should be 6 holes in the bottom of that bumper if it's the type that came with the separate hinge pin block. Call them up and tell them to send you a new one.
I put the screws in before I put the bumper on its covering them lol
 
I put the screws in before I put the bumper on its covering them lol
He is saying that the bottom of the bumper should have 6 holes not 4, that bumper is made wrong.
 
He is saying that the bottom of the bumper should have 6 holes not 4, that bumper is made wrong.
yeah I was just saying I made sure I put the screws even though it was made wrong lol its holding up good no issues other than the block screws stripped out right off the bat had to replace those
yeah I was just saying I made sure I put the screws even though it was made wrong lol its holding up good no issues other than the block screws stripped out right off the bat had to replace those
it only has 4 screws in the picture may be a newer model idk
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20190510-012343_eBay.jpg
    Screenshot_20190510-012343_eBay.jpg
    133.4 KB · Views: 68
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top