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https://www.cabletiesandmore.ca/flexo-pet-braided-sleeving

I don't really recommend it. It's very plasticky, burns easily when using heat on shrink tube and it's translucent so you can see whatever color the wire is underneath.
I thought I was buying the same stuff I used to cover my speaker cables a long time ago but it's not.
Yeah, look up NTE electrical supply. They have some in black, but I have a polished aluminum/red look going, and wanted the sleeving to clean up my build.
 
First off. Yes I am using SS bolts.
Why because I used them with success on my 33lb DBXL-E and I have no doubt about using them here. I'm not a hardcore basher anyway, just dirt and gravel and grass.

Well after a long delay due to a disease in both my eyes and multiple surgeries my terrible eye sight and triple vision is gone and I can now see 20/13.
So I pulled everything out of the closet and have started nback up with this project.
It's been tough as all the parts I had aquired became very foreign to me. I knew I ordered custom, upgrade and stock parts of many pieces so I had to go through everythign and familiarize myself with everything all over again.
Also since this is a scratch build I have no frame of reference of how things go together properly so lots of youtube and asking here with dumb questions to get my head back in it.
I got all my diffs together with the Mugen internals and Mugen outdrives for the axles. Using the M2C outdrives for the front and rear center diffs.
Shocks are all Tekno, I'm waiting for the 4mm Hardened Shock posts from M2C to get here. They are mounted temporarily.
All ceramic bearings and titanium driveshafts. Ti turnbuckles posts as well. Lot's of Ti bolts from Lundsford are in this build.
Most of the pivot balls are a mixture of Tekno and Kyosho. Even Ti ones from Lundsford. Rod ends again are Tekno.

I took apart the rear today to do a final assembly with loctite and upgraded bronze and brass shims. Locknuts all over.
Had to do some Dremeling on the JBI shock towers to get braces and things to fit but it all worked out nicely.
I'm in no rush with this since it's been so long. I'm sure the parts I'm using now are nothing special like they were previously but it will be nice to have this ready for the spring.

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First off. Yes I am using SS bolts.
Why because I used them with success on my 33lb DBXL-E and I have no doubt about using them here. I'm not a hardcore basher anyway, just dirt and gravel and grass.

Well after a long delay due to a disease in both my eyes and multiple surgeries my terrible eye sight and triple vision is gone and I can now see 20/13.
So I pulled everything out of the closet and have started nback up with this project.
It's been tough as all the parts I had aquired became very foreign to me. I knew I ordered custom, upgrade and stock parts of many pieces so I had to go through everythign and familiarize myself with everything all over again.
Also since this is a scratch build I have no frame of reference of how things go together properly so lots of youtube and asking here with dumb questions to get my head back in it.
I got all my diffs together with the Mugen internals and Mugen outdrives for the axles. Using the M2C outdrives for the front and rear center diffs.
Shocks are all Tekno, I'm waiting for the 4mm Hardened Shock posts from M2C to get here. They are mounted temporarily.
All ceramic bearings and titanium driveshafts. Ti turnbuckles posts as well. Lot's of Ti bolts from Lundsford are in this build.
Most of the pivot balls are a mixture of Tekno and Kyosho. Even Ti ones from Lundsford. Rod ends again are Tekno.

I took apart the rear today to do a final assembly with loctite and upgraded bronze and brass shims. Locknuts all over.
Had to do some Dremeling on the JBI shock towers to get braces and things to fit but it all worked out nicely.
I'm in no rush with this since it's been so long. I'm sure the parts I'm using now are nothing special like they were previously but it will be nice to have this ready for the spring.

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Good to hear you’re back! I remember you from somewhere in 2020 (when I joined this forum) from some really cool and shiny (lots of aluminium/titanium) builds👍
 
Can anyone tell me the purpose of these little plastic t-fittings that go on the ends of the sway bars?
I am not using them and have them fitted differently as you can see in my pic.
first pic-not my car
2nd pic - my car
3rd pic the parts I am using
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The 1st pic is what's on my car too, and they suck - they hold the sway bar, but they break. I like the way you're doing it in the 2nd pic. Can you share a part number?

I'm running a V4 Kraton by the way. I think that's the standard sway bar links. (1st pic)
 
Next question.
The screw that holds the bottom shock pin in place. It screws right into the plastic arm.
What happens if you strip it?
Is there a better option?

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Is there supposed to be this much play in the rear?

That is normal, but not what I like. I run CVDs on all four corners of all of my cars for this very reason. You COULD just put a little cushion on each side. Arrma EXB units come with a little black rubber cushion. You can use a small cut off of fuel tube. A small piece of foam might work too.
 
Front & Rear all done and buttoned up.
Lot's of grinding had to be done to braces and the servo mount to make clearance for the driveshafts.
Next is mounting and running the wiring for the ESC and the telematry sensors and receiver.
I'm really not good at the electric aspect of things and considering the ESC & Motor cost me a lot of coin I might just finish all the mechanical stuff and then take it to the local RC shop and have them do it and finish the setup.
I'll then decide on which of the 3 bodies and the 3 sets of tires I will run.

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New update. My springs are garbage. Not strong enough to hold the chassis up. Got a link from someone here for custom springs and I will be ordering a full set of 10lb, 12lb and 20lb springs.
Looks like I also need a new body cause none of the 3 I have seem to make me happy. Definitely need something longer.
I'm going to take my DBXL-e body off and see how it fits size wise to get a better idea of size.
Also drilled out the wheels as the JustBashit 25mm hex hubs were slightly too large.
But they bolt on no problem.

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Had to get another ESC box printed.
This is now the 3rd but it finally fits everything I will need it to.
Next is having a rear motor mount made cause I hate that there is only 2 screws holding my TP can up.
Working on the top part of the clamp right now.
They will be made of Aluminum.

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I also need to give a thanks to @Maxxwrecker07 for the printed ESC mounted for my Monster X 8s.
Fits perfectly and locks the ESC down. Thanks bro!
Sorry I forgot to take pics of it but I will soon enough.


 
Had to get another ESC box printed.
This is now the 3rd but it finally fits everything I will need it to.
Next is having a rear motor mount made cause I hate that there is only 2 screws holding my TP can up.
Working on the top part of the clamp right now.
They will be made of Aluminum.

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I also need to give a thanks to @Maxxwrecker07 for the printed ESC mounted for my Monster X 8s.
Fits perfectly and locks the ESC down. Thanks bro!
Sorry I forgot to take pics of it but I will soon enough.


How much does that monster weigh when you done? what's your guess?
 
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